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David - Alabama

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I have a 20 gal, 5hp wheelbarrow type air comp. Not enough volume when using impact wrench etc. Can I convert an old 40 gal water heater tank to use as additional volumn? Are water heater tanks rated high enough in pressure?

Thanks
 
Its not so much as having the "volume" as the cfm's. Your compressor will still fill the same speed only it has more area to fill. I dont think your gonna get the results your after. Sorry
 
I wouldn't... I doubt that those tanks are built for that kind of pressure. You've got to consider that even if a water tank was taken to that pressure... where it's full of water it's not a hazard anyhow. Full of air... it's a bomb.
Buy a pressure rated tank.
One thing you might consider... if a 5 HP compressor can't keep up... you must be running a large 3/4" gun? That probably wants a 1/2" line feeding it. Doing that alone may make a difference to you.

Rod
 
No. Not even close.
A 100lb propane tank has done this for some people though. I too am confused as to why a "5hp 20 gallon" cannot keep up. My 2 hp 20 gallon twin cylinder is adequate for a 1/2" impact. By the time I take one tire off and move on to the next, it's pretty much caught up.
 
All i can say is everybody buys an air compressor and thinks it will do everything they want. I have a 80 gallon 2 stage 3 cylinder that does an awesome job running impact wrenches and anything else in the shop. But when i hook the sandblaster to it forget it thats when i bought the 185cfm IR pull type compressor. When buying any compressor buy triple the size you think you will need and you might be happy.
 
I'll catch heck for this but. I have used an old gas water heater tank for the past 10 plus years as a compressor tank and it has worked just fine. I did leave the pop off on it that was n it when I got it and it pops off at 150psi and it sits on my truck and has for a decade and so far no problems. Note I used a gas water heater tank not and electric. Oh by the way my brand new water heater says it is pressure tested to 150psi but what is funny is the pop off is also rated for the same PSI
 
Guess you missed the previous post from Lanse who wanted to do the same thing. I'll say it again . If your wanting to meet your maker early on. that's the way to get there. Tanks made for air compressors aren't that expensive and THEY ARE SAFE SAFE SAFE.Nothing like getting perforated with flying shrapnel from an OLD WATER HEATER TANK or some family member in the shop when it explodes because water heater tanks can't take that kind of pressure nor pressure fluctuation over extended time periods.
I would think again . LOU.
 
This subject comes up every few weeks. You can probably search the archives and find the exact same discussion that is going to happen now. There will be those that say don't do it, and of course there will be those that say they've been doing it for years so of course it's perfectly safe.

Here's the bottom line. Water heaters are in fact tested for about 150 psi, which is less than most single-stage compressors put out. BUT water heaters are NOT designed to hold compressed gas! Air is compressible, water is not. A pressurized air tank holds a huge amount of energy, a pressurized water tank contains very little. If a water tank fails, you get a little water on the floor. If an air tank fails, it will destroy your workshop and if you're inside at the time it's likely to kill you.

Now, you are perfectly within your rights to do something that will put you at risk of injury or death. But you do not have the right to put others at risk, and unless you're the only person that ever enters your shop you are endangering others by using an unsafe air tank. And it's also possible that you have family who would miss you should you blow yourself to bits. Do the right thing: either get a proper air tank, or better yet buy a compressor sized for the work you need to do. Your so-called "5 hp" compressor is probably in fact a 2 hp unit. No 115 volt compressor is capable of 5 horsepower.
 
has anyone ever seen a air tank fail? I saw 2 fail from rust on the inside,they didnt explode,they just kinda split in one spot,, 125psi
 
Do your self a favor buy a bigger compressor.Bought an old IR with a 671 detriot does every thing I want. I run a straight pipe on her when I'am sand blasting its like music to my ears!!!
 
Yeah... I've seen a dryer vessle and a storage tank on a truck fail... basically as yours did. Rusted through in one spot and just hissed until I replaced them... but that's not to say that EVERY tank will fail like that. If a seam in a tank got weak it could just as easily open up like a tin can... and running something beyond it's pressure rating, causing expansion of the tank is a sure way to do that. Rust on a tank running within it's nominal operating range is prehaps not so serious... but for the sake of a hundred bucks, why take the chance?
Speaking of truck tanks.... one could probably find a decent old trailer tank... the type that mount forward of the landing gear... for little or no money.
Just find a scrapper that deals in heavy trucks.

Rod
 
I saw the results of an air tank explosion, and that was enough for me. Around 1980 on I-40 in Amarillo, I came up on a strange sight: A semi was stopped in the center lane, and a couple of hundred yards before the truck there was what appeared to be a large roadkill. As I came closer I realized the "roadkill" was in fact a human body, barely recognizable. Apparently there was an air tank installed under the passenger seat of the tractor, and it had ruptured, catapulting the passenger (the driver's wife) through the windshield. The driver was seriously injured, but survived.
 
I will defend you Rich! I see nothing wrong with using a water heater tank, been using one for years as a water system pressure tank at the cabin. What do you think about putting it upside down so the convex end is down, as most rupture where the water sits. If you have the concave end down they rust all around the seam and the whole bottom comes out at once! Laying them down horizontal is probably the worst, thats where you would get shrapnel! Also it would be good to have the relief valve set just above the upper limit.
 
Can I get a life insurance policy on you? What is your address? What type of tractors should I buy when I cash that policy in?

Bottom line: Water heaters are not made for holding compressed air. Buy a real air receiver tank or a whole new compressor.
 
Hello David-Alabama,
Your impact wrench should work good with your set-up.
Run the gun at a reduced pressure of 90 Lb.
That is where it is rated at anyhow.
You are waisting a lot of volume at a higher pressure, and still not getting the job done.
At lower pressure it may rattle abit more, but it should do the job.
Guido.
 
Mine sits on the bed of my truck right behind the cap on the drivers side. I have it hooked up with rubber hose from the compressor back to about a foot from the tank that foot is copper pipe and sits behind so it it pops it pretty much has no place to go. Most of the time it never sees more then say 80psi since 99% of the time it is used just to air up tires and that doesn't use much pressure.
 
A pressure vessel is a pressure vessel, unless there is a lot of heat involved, such as steam. Water heaters are rated to work up to 150psi, so 100 with the relief set at 125 should be safe. Have you ever watched Mythbusters? They do some very scientific tests on common myths, and water heaters are spectacular when they blow, because of the steam, but its at a very high pressure.
 
Perhaps your compressor is big enough, but you are running one of those tinny little air hoses for an air nailer. Try a good 1/4" or 3/8" air hose, in the 25' long range, not 50' or 100'
 
A larger volume of stored air under pressure will give you more CFM's for a limited time. That's why most air comprssors have storage tanks on them in the first place. The CFM rating is what the compressor will put out continously without counting intermittent higher CFM's. Using an "old" water heater for an air tank is a bad idea. If it was taken out of service as a water heater, it's out lived it's useful service life already. A propane tank in good condition would be a better choice for an aux. air tank. They're usually good/tested for 250 PSI and shouldn't be rusted inside. Dave
 
Oh by the way when I said I have one set up with a water heater tank I am in not way saying it is a good idea to use one. I have mine set up with a number of safety's built into my system and the only time it ever gets up to the point the pop off pops is when I forgot to turn it off and am driving down the hwy. So if you can use a tank that is made for what your doing and make sure it is in good shape. Now if you still want to use a water heater tank be sure to install it in such a way that if it would explode that you have a box of some sort around it to contain the blast
 
As per physics air is in fact a fluid but it is not like water since water does not compress, but water is also a fluid that does not act like any other known to man because it is the only one that expands when frozen.
As for the tank and the pressure they test the tanks with WHAT?? They use compressed air to pressure test them no water.
 
I have seen a good many tanks go bad and most just get a small leak in them and as it gets worse the hole just gets bigger. Not fun when your doing 60 or so down the road and you loose air pressure on the air brakes and the brakes lock up on you
 
My dad bought a 20 gal/ 1/2hp, 110v portable compressor from a local farm store in 1960. I updated it with a 2cyl compressor and a 220v 2hp motor in 1974. It leaked through pin holes
on the bottom of the tank, which I promptly brazed
shut, several times over the years. In 1981, while I was very thankfully gone, it blew up like a cherry bomb in a peach can used to, launching the compressor, sitting in a 3 car garage, 15' into a sheet rock wall, knocking a chunk out, and splattering three nearest walls with shrapnel similar to what a M26 hand grenade makes. I think possibly the pressure switch stuck. I
will never risk my safety on an air tank again.
 
That is the reason I like to have some sort of box built around them. That way at least you have a better chance if something does go wrong and no matter what sooner or later something does go wrong
 
Just a thought. A 20 inch diameter water heater tank filled with air to 150 psi will have 47,124 lbs. of pressure against the top and bottom of the tank. With a used tank you don't know what pressure it will withstand. DH
 
A box wont help,fellow I talked with saw a compressor tank go through the roof of a potato house.Be wary of air compressors in cold weather, pressure switches and saftey valves can freeze up.Air tanks should be drained every day but its seldom done.
 
You never know what condition a used tank is in.Its too risky.I made a sap boilng stove from a water tank for a friend years ago.The tank walls were very thin, very rusty.Since he was using it out doors it didnt matter.
 
I put a compressor together years ago.The propane tank is up in the shed loft standing upside down so moisture wont collect in the tank.Have two saftey valves plus the tank has one built in.I run 90 lb max.The commpressor is an old Curtis with a 2 hp RI motor.Runs slow but does what I need.Water tanks run 40 to 60 lb pressure.
 
And how is that since you can not see my set up you can not make a statement like that and be even close to knowing what your talking about. Now if you can could my system you might have a guess but since you have never seen it your the wrong one
 
A box wont help at all if a tank blows.Using a water tank is foolish.They run at 40 t0 60 pounds.You can do something foolish your self but dont tell others to do it.You said that a 30 06 takes a .311 bullet not so ,it takes a .308 bullet, my 303 british and 7.62x39 uses a .311 bullet.A .311 bullet in the 30 06 will run pressures over safe levels.I have a water tank that has a leak.I would make a stove with it but wont use it as an air tank.Air tanks are tested with water not air.I remember reading in a farm paper that a water tank used on a compressor blew out and killed a fellows son, father had to write the letter.Saving money can kill you.There are plenty of ASME aproved air tanks for sale.
 
Well #1 I did not and do not say it is a good idea to use one even if I have and do. #2 I have the training it takes to work around 4500PSI air systems. I can not due to law tell you where I got that training because of the nature of what and where it is but I do have it and have worked with it. Lets just drop this since it has nothing to do with what the guy had asked in the first place.
As far as bullets you got that all wrong the Russian guns are 7.62 and is the 3006 but they are measured different and the 308 is the U.S. way and the 311 is the Russian which is what I did say. But again as I said this does not help any body so drop it please
 
I know what you did with 4500 lb air.Go back and look at your bullet size post.You said the 30 06 used a .311 bullet,reloaders know thats wrong.All loading manuals measure bullets in thousands regardless of caliber.Lead bullets offer some lee way,Jacketed bullets do not.
 
If is did say 3006 then it was a simple type-o since I have been reloading 7.62X54 7.62X39 and 7.62X25 all Russian for decades and also the 3030 and 308 and 3006 also for decades and I keep a re loaders manual right here on my desk for such things I'm human so I do at times make simple mistakes forgive me for being a human what are you not human your self. As I said drop this it doesn't help any body it just cause hate and discontent
 
Very good idea. If I where you and all since you seem to know little about air system do not buy used ones because those are what can get you. Me I take precautions that others do not have a clue about but I have been around some very high pressure air system and also maintained factory air system where the main tooling where air tools
 
Theres no hate or discontent.I just think that wrong information should not be given out.I would never use a powder load from the internet.I check 2 or 3 manuals before I use a load.Even then you will find mistakes.Lynn Miller,editor of the Small Farmers Journal said that 1/2 the info on the internet is bogus.
 
Oh plus that post about ammo is weeks if not months old why bring it up other then to cause trouble. As I said let dead dogs die and yes you are doing your best to cause hate and discontent other wise you would let this lie
 
Last year I built an air compressor for blasting, painting, and my 3/4" IR impact, all on 1/2" hose. I used a 150 gal propane tank, the tag said 1949. When I removed the valve it still had some LP in it and the metal was a nice grey color, no rust. I welded threaded fittings for drain, inlet, outlet, pop off, gauge, ect. Used a 2 cyl 175 psi pump and 13 hp engine with throttle control. I built the motor and compressor mount as well as fork lift lifting pads all from used 1/4" diamond plate. I welded it myself and I hydro tested it 2x. I have the throttle unloader set to about 160 psi, I saw no need to go to 175 psi since I regulate at 100. I feel safe with it and it is not ASME rated. But, its not a HW tank. Pressure vessels are NASTY when they blow, be careful.

CT
 
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