Absent Minded Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Gehl Country, Wis.
How much weight can I put on 3/4" OSB flooring on 16" true 2x4 oak studs? Thanks - Mike
- Thread starter Absent Minded Farmer
- Start date
OP
OP
Absent Minded Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Gehl Country, Wis.
16"
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Do you really have oak studs ? Where did they build like that ?
OP
OP
Absent Minded Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Gehl Country, Wis.
My apologies, I was a bit hasty with my typing between errands. My joists have 16" centers, spanning 18'. Oak joists is my guess as I'm not sure exactly what wood went into barns in my area. I do know they measure exactly 2" x 6" & are very heavy @ 20' long. - Mike
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
the osb will hold nearly (within reason) anything you can stack on it... it's pretty ridgid... your joists, however, seem a bit undersized for the span. I think your joists will fail long before the osb does! jmho ...D
OP
OP
Absent Minded Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Gehl Country, Wis.
Ah, I see my typo. The joists are 2"x6". There is a 6"x8", in the middle, supporting the 2"x6"s.
I have 2 smaller machines, about 500 lbs per wheel x 4 wheels between the both of them, that I would like to park on the new plywood floor. Does this sound viable? - Mike
I have 2 smaller machines, about 500 lbs per wheel x 4 wheels between the both of them, that I would like to park on the new plywood floor. Does this sound viable? - Mike
david - or
Member
John Harmon
Member
I have never had any likeing for the use of "OSB" except for maybe as exterior wall sheathing only. it is a poor material to use for weight support such as you are considering. I would much rather see you use 3/4" Plyscore T&G underlayment and then lay on a 1/2" Plyboard subfloor which will support a lot of weight. This sounds almost residential and it is by definition. Most Barns have solid 1" x 8"-12" wide Lumber flooring and most where I come from were one of several different species of Pine. The mow floors of the barns at home were made of red pine which came from Canada and the north east USA .Most barn floor joists are on 12"CC and are at least 2"x8" or greator.
Take a good look at AdvanTech Flooring. Has been voted the #1 Quality Brand Leader by builders for eight years running now. I helped get AdvanTech on the production line. It's sanded both sides, tongue & grooved, branded and has a 50 year warranty. It's one tough product. I use 1 1/8th on my dump bed sides. It sits outside year round and haul gravel, feed and has a load of short logs on it right now. It sheds water very well. It's not intended to be used outside forever but I used it to see how long it'll last. It's been bolted on there for 6 years now.
We're in to our thrid year of ZIP board. Production is increasing each year for the ZIP too.
We're in to our thrid year of ZIP board. Production is increasing each year for the ZIP too.
OP
OP
Absent Minded Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Gehl Country, Wis.
Not sure if it makes a difference, guys, but I took a look at one of the leftover sheets. It's made by ADA & is called STURD-I-FLOOR. Is there a difference between this & OSB? - Mike
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Your post needs to be re-done as the info is scattered around and very difficult to figure out what you are dealing with. For starters, you may want to be specific about joists as to size, dimensions, spans, etc. Also if you do a search on sturd-I-Floor, you will see much info. Tom
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
That's not enough joist for an 18' span. Even at full dimensions. Needs to be at least 2x12 for the 18' span. And the bending strength goes up as the cube of the height.
3/4 OSB floor deck is rated at 50 pounds per square foot (typical household load) with the joists on 24" centers, its better at 16" centers.
Gerald J.
3/4 OSB floor deck is rated at 50 pounds per square foot (typical household load) with the joists on 24" centers, its better at 16" centers.
Gerald J.
I'm using it for exterior wall sheathing now on my siding project. Talked to a gal who works for a modular home builder. A tight wall builds up some moisture and the OSB then swells up. That affects how the siding looks. Because of those problems, they now drill a half inch hole in the OSB alternating between top and bottom every so often (I assume every stud cavity). Guess it helps it breathe. She mentioned some type of product data sheet or building standard that requires the holes.
They also use another type of sheet type barrier under the tyvek that is more waterproof. The use faceless fiberglass insulation and a spray on vapor barrier on top of the sheet rock. I removed some 22 year old tyvek on my house that was so brittle it was falling apart.
They also use another type of sheet type barrier under the tyvek that is more waterproof. The use faceless fiberglass insulation and a spray on vapor barrier on top of the sheet rock. I removed some 22 year old tyvek on my house that was so brittle it was falling apart.
If you go to the APA website, you can register with your email and instantly download some of their publications such as their engineered lumber construction guide. Has all the specs for osb as well joists and span table information. Lots of other stuff such as nail schedules for wind loading and weight bearing of various thicknesses of osb.
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