plans for a log splitter

Any one ever built one to go on the three point hitch and run off the tractor hydraulics? What type valve would ya need to control the ram? How heavy of an I beam? I would think vertical would be better for loading/ unloading etc? Any one with input? I know there are a bunch of tinkerers and fabricators on here. Thanks

Hello Dieselrider.
I built some in my time .One was for a tree point hitch for a farmer friend of mine but he had quick coupling hydraulics. So we only built the axle and the ram assy.
We used 1/2'' by 6" I beam and the wedge was fabricated out of 3/16 angle 1" by 3" The angle was the same size used fot the rear of trailers as an ICC bar.
We used hard surfacing rod for the edge and sharpened it, work well.
Guido.

I would recommend you get the wedge and valve from Northern Tool - 1/2" X 6" I beam or larger.

Built this about 30 years ago; originally used a header control cable from a combine to work the scv lever on the tractor, but it was a lot of trouble to hook and unhook. Had several old Gresen valves in the junk pile, so put enough spools together to work splitting ram and (added)gin pole for lifting blocks. Four by 24 cylinder and doubled-up 6 inch channel for beam. The 3-point hitch is from an old breaking plow which we were parting out. Not particularly good pictures, but the splitter works great with tractor running about 1500 rpm; only takes a sip of fuel every few minutes. When the pictures were taken, I had a leaking cylinder hose.

<a href="http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii44/thurlow8/?action=view¤t=woodsplitter003.jpg" target="_blank"> </a>

<a href="http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii44/thurlow8/?action=view¤t=woodsplitter005.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

<a href="http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii44/thurlow8/?action=view¤t=woodsplitter006.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

<a href="http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii44/thurlow8/?action=view¤t=woodsplitter004.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

Tractor hydraulics are open center. Be sure and do not use a closed center hydraulic valve on your splitter, beyond that, Northern has a good selection of parts and combine that with what you might scrounge, and you should not have any trouble building a unit.

Charles

what do you use to catch the huge pieces as they first split? Seems to me like you shluld have some sort of side curtains that fold up from the beam to help support the big 'uns from flopping on your feet.

"""""""""Tractor hydraulics are open center.""""""?????????????

Actually, the picture doesn't show how we usually split. We split off a 'slab', which the off-bearer lays on the back of the trailer (normally backed up under the back of the splitter). The big part of the block is never allowed to fall off the splitter. The man feeding the splitter just pushes the block further over and splits off another slab. The slabs are then split into blocks.......much simpler than it sounds.

I built a vertical splitter that I run on the hydraulics of a 630 John Deere. It's three point mounted, with a hitch attached to pull a wood trailer behind. I use the tractor hydraulic valve to control the splitter. I welded a small tab with a hole in it to the hydraulic control lever on the tractor. I hook a rod in the hole and it allows me to control the tractor valve from the operating position behind the tractor. Been using it for 32 years, trouble free, and we heat our house and shop solely with wood. I like the vertical splitter - there's no limit to the size of log that you can split. I've split 43 inch diameter blocks with this splitter. The first chunk you use for a seat, and the rest is "sit down" work. I used an HP 10X42 piling cut off for the beam. I cut down the front flange to six inches. Wish I could post a pic, but not savvy in that respect. . .

only some tractors are open center,alot deere units are closed center. Most of the better valves you can get they can be made to use on both by removing or installing a plug

Hello Jim in MA
I used the size beam you suggested and the wedge that I made from the 1x3 angle lasted angle 15 years.That was 5 or so years ago. This year my brother-in-low got into a 30" walnut that had been on the groung for 3 years, he pushed the wedge right off the beam. So we had to weld it
up to the beam. Here is a picture of the splitter I made for us in the mid 80's.The valve is from Northen tool and has an auto detent return valve. The cylinder is different.
The picture is from Feb. 1984
Guido.

Some partially unsolicited opinons:

The use of a 25 hp to ??? 65 hp tractor to do the job that a 5 hp horizontal shaft motor seems like a waste of fuel and tractor motor wear and tear.

People focus too much on splitting the big stuff (how to get it on the splitter) The key to a good splitter is setting it up so you can split repeately with the least amount of body movement.

The problem with vertical splitters is, you have to bend over to the ground everytime you touch the wood. You'd be better off with a maul.

Make a horizontal splitter. Put the wedge on the piston and the stop at the end of the splitter. It is very easy to make a split, back-out the wedge, rotate the log on the "table" split again, and again, and again. No need to pick up the wood since it won't be pushed onto the ground everytime.

Use a square tube (e.g., 4 X 6) as the axle support, and use it as the hydraulic reservoir.
Make the "table" a comfortable height so you can hold the log against your thigh with one hand while the other hand is busy at the valve control.

Put an actual table opposite the side you stand on to catch the half of the larger logs opposite you after you make an initial split.
Use a two-stage hydraulic pump.

Use a control valve that will stay engaged for backing up the wedge (return dentent) while you pick up the next log.

That's most of my 4 cents.

Best of luck.

Tim

This is a picture of a log spliter I bought for $125 . Is factory made but name had long disapeard befor I got it .

Tim, I must respectfully disagree with you. I used both a horizontal beam splitter and a vertical beam splitter before I elected to build my vertical splitter. I found that the horizontal splitter was much harder on my back, plus we had to either leave the huge blocks in the woods or quarter them with a maul in order to be able to "two man" them onto the beam. If I have to bust them with a maul, then I don't need a splitter. The very best firewood is in those BIG blocks. I roll the blocks up to the splitter and flop them over on the base plate. No lifting - a one man job. The first block serves as a seat. I even have a boat cushion to sit on - keeps me from "drawing damp". . . I pull a trailer to the woods (there's a hitch on the splitter) and pitch the wood into the trailer as it comes off of the splitter. It's nice to have the tractor available to drag logs to a level spot for comfort.

Dieselrider's post indicated he was interested in a tractor mounted splitter, probably because he already has a tractor with working hydraulics. I know that a little air cooled engine would use less fuel, but he may not want the expense of an engine, pump, valve, fittings, etc., which he already has on the tractor. I know of at least one case where a friend built a tractor mounted splitter and later modified the same splitter with an air cooled engine, pump valves, etc. We seem to have more money as we get older, plus he has a son-in-law who pulls the splitter behind his pickup, while pop drives the tractor and trailer to the woods. I've thought about modifying my splitter to have it's own engine, pump, etc, but I'd still need a tractor available for heavy pulling, and I'm a one man operation, so it doesn't make sense to spend money on something that works OK like it is.

I hope I haven't offended you Tim, that's not my intent at all. I just seem to have had different experiences than you from the two types of splitters.

Best wishes,
Paul