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On the choice of primer, as I mentioned earlier epoxy is best for the longest lasting metal protection because it is water proof. Other primers/paints have pores just like your skin and will allow water to get through to metal and cause rust. That is the purpose of waxing a painted finish (car wax) to seal the pores in the paint and prevent rust from starting. The body shop may recommend urethane because it is easier and quicker for them to finish the job, which means they make more money. Now you know the advantages of epoxy you can decide if you want quality or speed. If you do use a urethane paint with a hardener, make sure you have a fresh air breathing system as any hardener that has isocyates(excuse the spelling), refered to as ISO's, is poisonous. Read the paint and body board food for thought about the guy who died after spraying it all day. I have sprayed it about 3 times with just a chemical paint mask and now it burns my eyes and skin if I go near it being sprayed. I no longer spray it without a fresh air system and all parts of my body covered. If you do decide to make your own remover, please let us know how well it works, and take into consideration breathing and skin protection. A good idea to read labels before using or mixing. As far as canceling the base, I'm not qualified to answer it. I can say that I use vinegar and baking soda to neutralize acid from tinning metal to do lead body work. I believe CSKC had some advice on your "gravy" ingredients neutralizing each other. Perhaps a re-read of his post is in order. I have used the newer chemical paint removers that only need soap and water to neutralize. About 2 gallons or $60 to do a full size car. Maybe the cost and time is worth considering this method. Once you get to bare metal: I currently use a product called Oxi-solv on bare metal. It leaves a zinc phosphate coating behind, etches clean metal and removes rust all at one time. I have never had a problem with it reacting to paint surfaces. The major problem with it is keeping it wet when applying. If you don't and let it dry, it will leave a heavy film you will need to scotch brite off. Now that I have read about other products such as Ospho and Picklex here, I am anxious to compare them to Oxi-solv. I once tried another rust remover sold in Tractor Supply that did not do squat as far as removing rust. The Oxi-solv product that I use does not need neutralizing and will prevent rerusting for several weeks or months depending on exposure to moisture.
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