No spark on Economy 1 3/4 S engine

wildfox65

Member
I was given a hit and miss engine. This is my first engine of this type. I do not have any history on the engine. My intent is to get it running, then new paint.
I do need to buy a new spark plug wire, missing. After spending some time with the engine trying to learn its operation. With the front cover off of the WICO EK magneto, turning the flywheel with a crank, there is no up and down movement of the plunger. I am sorry, I do not know all the correct terminology for some of these parts. Perhaps what I am calling a plunger is the points. ???
With the engine in motion, should a spark be seen at this plunger location? Heavy or light spark?
Thanks

 
The "plunger" should move, making a spark at the spark plug as it "breaks away" from the mag.

NO spark at the mag/"plunger", though!
 
Do a web search for Hit and Miss Enterprises. Download their parts catalog and look in the Hercules section at the picture of the Wico EK magneto. Make sure you have all the parts shown.The plunger pushes the trip finger and the small vertical screw knocks the plunger off the trip finger causing the mag to actuate which creates the spark. The adjustment of the knock off screw is VERY important. Using a spark tester to adjust this screw is the best way I have found to do it.
 
The plunger does not move when engine is cranked. I need to do more checking.

Inside the rubber boot, I found what looks like a piece of string. It was coiled around the the brass fitting that is attached to the spring. Is the string and spring with brass fitting original?
Thx









(quoted from post at 19:04:52 10/17/15) The "plunger" should move, making a spark at the spark plug as it "breaks away" from the mag.

NO spark at the mag/"plunger", though!







29089.jpg
29090.jpg
 
I have never seen a string inside a wico EK. The part you call a rubber boot should be bakealite (or how it is supposed to be spelled) and is called a tower. The spring goes in the tower and sits against the lump that looks like solder. The brass piece should be on the opposite side of the tower and should touch the brass case to ground the coil. If the plunger is not dropping it is because the mechanism that trips it is not working right. email me at [email protected] and I will send you a short video of how it should be working.
 
Upon closer inspection, the point is separating,(dropping) when the trip finger is activated. How is the distance between the point regulated?
Thx










(quoted from post at 23:06:47 10/18/15) Yes what you are calling the plunger is the points.
 
After purchasing a length of 7mm spark plug wire and two brass ends, placing magneto end of the wire into the tower, the wire would not stay in place. I jury rigged that connection temporarily. If I were to purchase a new tower, would that fit my 7mm wire securely? Turning the flywheel, seeing the trip finger activate the point, there was a blue spark at the spark plug. Yeah!!

Now onto checking the condition of the fuel tank and mixer.







(quoted from post at 07:41:22 10/19/15) Upon closer inspection, the point is separating,(dropping) when the trip finger is activated. How is the distance between the point regulated?
Thx










(quoted from post at 23:06:47 10/18/15) Yes what you are calling the plunger is the points.
 
Purchasing a new tower will not fix the tightness of the connection unless the tower is worn very badly. If you have a soldering iron put you
a spot of solder on the brass end that goes into the tower. The points are adjusted by screwing the points up and down on the stud. I would
take the mag off to do this. Take the points out and you can see a brass lock nut inside the spring. Turn the mag upside down and find you
some .093 flat washers and (2) and put them between the place where the mag latches when closed. Adjust points to just barely touch. I sent
you a picture just now
 
I did remove the magneto. Did some exterior cleaning of the mag. I also spaced the arms apart for the adjustment of the point.Then removed
the point to properly adjust. I also rotated the finger and the block 90 degrees from where they were positioned. It did take some time to get it
all adjusted for proper operation. I now have a spark at the plug with every stroke of the finger.
Having the electrical phase working, I now want move onto the fuel system.

I do not know the condition of the fuel tank. I would like to bypass the tank for now. I removed the short copper tubing from the tank to the
mixer. I want to feed the mixer remotely. Can someone help me identify the name and size if the fitting that goes into the mixer from the tank.
I have read that the small fitting above the tee is a check valve, is that correct?
Will I be able to feed gasoline into the mixer by using gravity of the fuel? If I use gravity, will that keep the mixer flooded?
Thanks
 
There should be a check valve in the line. This is not a gravity feed mixer. It draws the fuel from the tank. The check valve allows it to have a pumping type action and keeps the fuel from flowing back into the tank. You could use a small can for a gas tank until you find out the condition of your tank. Take the check valve apart (without losing the ball) and clean it. Blow on it and suck on and you should be able to see if it works. All you have to do is make sure the end of your fuel line is in gas . Put your finger over the mixer opening when cranking helps pull the fuel up quicker. See a lot of these engines at shows running off a can, fruit jar or plastic bottle.
 
Okay , that's good news with the mixer drawing the fuel. I will remove the check valve for cleaning and inspection.
Thanks









(quoted from post at 18:57:16 10/20/15) There should be a check valve in the line. This is not a gravity feed mixer. It draws the fuel from the tank. The check valve allows it to have a pumping type action and keeps the fuel from flowing back into the tank. You could use a small can for a gas tank until you find out the condition of your tank. Take the check valve apart (without losing the ball) and clean it. Blow on it and suck on and you should be able to see if it works. All you have to do is make sure the end of your fuel line is in gas . Put your finger over the mixer opening when cranking helps pull the fuel up quicker. See a lot of these engines at shows running off a can, fruit jar or plastic bottle.
 
(quoted from post at 00:17:33 10/21/15) Okay , that's good news with the mixer drawing the fuel. I will remove the check valve for cleaning and inspection.
Thanks


How is the fuel drawn into cylinder from the mixer? Are there small passages in the mixer and the head for the transfer of the fuel for combustion?
Thanks







(quoted from post at 18:57:16 10/20/15) There should be a check valve in the line. This is not a gravity feed mixer. It draws the fuel from the tank. The check valve allows it to have a pumping type action and keeps the fuel from flowing back into the tank. You could use a small can for a gas tank until you find out the condition of your tank. Take the check valve apart (without losing the ball) and clean it. Blow on it and suck on and you should be able to see if it works. All you have to do is make sure the end of your fuel line is in gas . Put your finger over the mixer opening when cranking helps pull the fuel up quicker. See a lot of these engines at shows running off a can, fruit jar or plastic bottle.
/quote]
 
(quoted from post at 00:41:40 10/22/15)
(quoted from post at 00:17:33 10/21/15) Okay , that's good news with the mixer drawing the fuel. I will remove the check valve for cleaning and inspection.
Thanks


How is the fuel drawn into cylinder from the mixer? Are there small passages in the mixer and the head for the transfer of the fuel for combustion?
Thanks


The fuel is drawn in thru the intake valve. There is an adjustment screw for the mixer on the front of it that must be turned aprox 1 full turn out to allow the fuel to be drawn from the gas tank.




(quoted from post at 18:57:16 10/20/15) There should be a check valve in the line. This is not a gravity feed mixer. It draws the fuel from the tank. The check valve allows it to have a pumping type action and keeps the fuel from flowing back into the tank. You could use a small can for a gas tank until you find out the condition of your tank. Take the check valve apart (without losing the ball) and clean it. Blow on it and suck on and you should be able to see if it works. All you have to do is make sure the end of your fuel line is in gas . Put your finger over the mixer opening when cranking helps pull the fuel up quicker. See a lot of these engines at shows running off a can, fruit jar or plastic bottle.
/quote]
 
Having trouble starting this engine.
I removed the copper fuel line. Replaced it with new remote fuel line. Reinstalled the check valve. Check valve was fully operational. After opening the fuel valve, closing the choke, lever turned up, holding finger against the governor arm for about 5 revolutions of the flywheel. I release finger from governor shaft and continue rotating the flywheel for another approx. 5 revolutions. Still no start. Sometimes it will pop and continue with a revolution or two and then die. I am able to get fuel to drip out of the mixer intake when choked or choke too long. I can see the intake valve movement and here the wheezing.
So, not knowing what else to do, do these mixer ever need to be clean somehow? I have fuel being drawn to the mixer, but seems as if the fuel is not being delivered to the cylinder. Or at least not being delivered often enough to continue to run the engine. Including a pic. on my mixer.
Thanks

[/img]
 
hen I start one of these engines I push the intake valve in just a little to relieve the compression so the engine can be turned over easy. All you have to do is get the flywheel rolling past the 1st compression stroke. Sometimes I will hold the valve in until the engine blows a gas air mixture out the slightly open intake valve. The engine also has to be timed properly. If you know the cylinder is getting wet with fuel then you need to start looking at spark and timing. Sometimes if the engine gets too wet you have to shut the fuel valve off. Sometimes it just takes time and patience. Walk away and come back and they start right up.
 
Okay, I will try that method of holding the intake valve slightly open when trying to start the engine. I am fairly certain that a lack of a spark is not a issue at this point.
I have read somewhere about a timing mark across the face of the right side flywheel. Were those timing marks engraved into the face of the steel flywheel? I was not able to locate a timing mark on this engine. If no timing mark is to be found, is there another method of timing this engine? Greatly appreciate the help.
Thanks
 
I had some good luck on this engine today. I was able to get it running for approximately five minutes. Not saying it was running perfectly. Still not sure what it should sound like for normal. Will need to work on that.
Thanks
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top