e-engine hard start

DONMYEIL

Member
I have new rings and new mixer valve and needle . It just starts way too hard . Compression is good but doesn't seem to get an excessive amount of gas , the check valve is clean. By the way this is a 1929 model with iginiter ( I have cleaned it as well ) . It has the generator ign. system . How do I measure the output on the generator . I was told if it would spark it was ok . It will start if I can get someone to crank it like the devil . thanks DON
 
John Deere Model E???

If so, have you timed the low tension mag and igniter as specified in the OM?

Spark is hottest when the igniter points snap open just as the current put out by the low tension mag reaches it's peak.
 
Thanks to all who replied. I replaced the mag (gen) when I got the engine back in the 60's . I t has always been hard to start . I timed it per the manual, however I will take a look at it again. There is no coil used on this engine ?? As you all know sometimes you cant see the forest for the tree's . Thanks again ,DON
 
You need a coil such as is used on an electric air conditioner clutch between the igniter and generator, it increases the spark when the field collapses.
 
What needs to get established is some operational processes. First of all, where is the "SPARK" mark on the flywheel when the ignitor trips? Is it lined up with the pushrod? Secondly, thinking the magneto is fully functional, is it timed correctly to the engine? On those mags there is a easy way to find this out. When rolling the engine over watch the mag armature rotation. You will be rotating clockwise. There are two little pins in the end housing of the magneto. You will want to place some pressure on the pin on the right side of the housing. That will be the one for clockwise rotation. That is what the arrows mean that are cast into the end plate. While rolling the engine over see when the "pin" pushes in. This will let you know if the mag is in time with the ignitor trip. The armature has a dimple in it that the pin will dip into and then back out. The pin should push in at the same time as the ignitor trips. That will mean the armature is in the prime spot for the best current flow for the points. How does the engine react with a battery and coil hooked up and the magneto unhooked? Once the ignition system is found to be functional then the fuel system can be addressed. Best of luck in your playing.
 
Thanks ! , that is what I was looking for . I remember using the spark marks but don't remember the part about the pins . I will definitely check it out . Meanwhile I am grinding the valves . They weren't very bad although beat in. Thanks for all the replies . I will let you know how it starts when I get it back together .
(quoted from post at 05:04:11 09/25/13) What needs to get established is some operational processes. First of all, where is the "SPARK" mark on the flywheel when the ignitor trips? Is it lined up with the pushrod? Secondly, thinking the magneto is fully functional, is it timed correctly to the engine? On those mags there is a easy way to find this out. When rolling the engine over watch the mag armature rotation. You will be rotating clockwise. There are two little pins in the end housing of the magneto. You will want to place some pressure on the pin on the right side of the housing. That will be the one for clockwise rotation. That is what the arrows mean that are cast into the end plate. While rolling the engine over see when the "pin" pushes in. This will let you know if the mag is in time with the ignitor trip. The armature has a dimple in it that the pin will dip into and then back out. The pin should push in at the same time as the ignitor trips. That will mean the armature is in the prime spot for the best current flow for the points. How does the engine react with a battery and coil hooked up and the magneto unhooked? Once the ignition system is found to be functional then the fuel system can be addressed. Best of luck in your playing.
 

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