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Z145 Rebuild

B

bmacd11

Member
I'm in the process of rebuilding a Continental Z145. I just removed the sleeves and I see a lot of corrosion on the bottom journal where the oil rings seat. I think I would have to hone the surfaces to remove the scale and still I don't know if there will be enough good contact area for the new O rings to do there job. The width of the contact area it not much more than would be required for the new O rings. Before I took it apart, there was no coolant in the oil which is good. The old O rings were very bad and basically fell apart when I removed the sleeves. Also good because maybe it won't leak with new O rings. I took it apart because of low compression and black exhaust. I'm hoping the block is still usable but I don't have the experience to make the call on this.

Is it possible to machine the journals and install oversized sleeves and pistons?
 
No over size sleeves that I know of.

I would polish the block best you can without removing too much material, hand sand and polish with
Scotchbrite. Then use Permatex on the orings.

Be sure to clean the groove at the top where the sleeve flange seats, that is a critical height for the
head gasket to seal properly.
 
(quoted from post at 11:35:27 11/30/22) No over size sleeves that I know of.

I would polish the block best you can without removing too much material, hand sand and polish with
Scotchbrite. Then use Permatex on the orings.

Be sure to clean the groove at the top where the sleeve flange seats, that is a critical height for the
head gasket to seal properly.
Click to expand...

Perfect. Thanks for your input!
 
Well, I got the engine back together but I'm losing hair trying to get it running correctly. It wasn't wired when I bought it and the distributor was just thrown in the hole. Can anyone tell me how to set the distributor on a Z-145?. The book I have has a diagram showing that #1 is at 7:30 position and the rotor is at 9 0'clock. Doesn't make sense to me and that doesn't work either. I've seen other posts saying the Z129 has #1 at 10 o'clock. Is the Z145 the same? Need some basic help.

Thanks.
 

It does not really matter where the #1 wire is in a picture. The rotor needs to point at #1 in the cap when # 1 is on its compression stroke. Get #1 at TDC on its compression stroke. Turn the engine in the proper direction to keep any backlash in the right direction and confirm it is on compression stroke by checking that #4 valves are "on the rock" (not just looking at timing marks) then see where the rotor is pointing. That would be where #1 plug wire needs to be. If the #1 wire is not there you can move the wire to that terminal and set the wires in the proper firing order from there, or you can pull the distributor out and turn the rotor to where you want #1 to be in the cap (10 o'clock), reinstall the distributor in that location, and place the plug wires in the cap from there. The points should be just opening at that point, so you might need to rotate the distributor just a bit for that initial timing.
 
Well, I got it started but had to retard the distributor 1/8th turn to start and then back to original position to idle correctly. Runs good at idle but won't accelerate. Gas pours out of the carburetor mouth. Plugs are black and sooty after 30 minutes, from too much gas I suppose. So, I guess I'll do a carb job and hopefully the governor will work better. Thanks for your help.

Oh, I understand that the governor set-up on the 145 is different than the 129/134. Do you have any literature on that? I can't seem to find it.
 
Got the old Z-45 running. It's runs pretty good. I set the governor up same at Standard engines (Bundy Bear video) and it works also. Thanks for your assistance.
 
Tractor is almost done and now I have a peculiar problem. The fuel gauge works on ACC but it doesn't works when the tractor is running. I does flicker every now and then but doesn't stay on; just a second or two.
Any ideas on what would cause this issue?
 
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