Ford 860 cranks no spark

Coosangler

New User
received this tractor in non running condition and the original owner has passed away.
The story was there was one little thing that was hard to reach and he just couldn't get it.
He had a friend try to help him and they didn't get it
After he passed a guy came to buy it and thought he could get it going enough to get it on his trailer... He got frustrated and left and never came back
Part of the problem is the bucket and frame are in the way and the other part of the problem was it was parked in a narrow shed so it made it hard to do ANYTHING.
fast forward to me buying it
as is, pulling it out of said shed and bringing it home
A quick inspection revealed a poorly executed 12 volt conversion
Further inspection revealed a single wire alternator and 12 volt battery with a ground to the block. Heavy ground wire from battery was visibly compromised, so I replaced that. the positive cable on the battery was good and hooked to the starter solenoid.
Virtually all other wiring was what I would refer to as "temporary" bare wires twisted together and not routed properly
So I opened up the cowlingso I could see all the wires, most were unconnected
I made note of how it was and found a "bare minimum Wiring diagram" and started to replace and route the new wiring.
Center post on the starter solenoid was simply direct to the starter button. Easy
There was no key just a toggle switch so I bought a key switch.
Single wire from Alt went to positive post on the starter solenoid, another wire on that post went to key switch and then from switch to + on the new 12 internal resistor coil.
Short wire from - post on coil replaced and connected to post on the side of the distributor.
New points and condenser gapped at .025 as per manual
Cap, rotor, wires and plugs look to be a recent tune up so I didn't replace them...
Further inspection and research showed my dust cover inside the distributor was broken so I got a new one of those and really thought I had figured it out... Still no spark...
I used a test light on the + side of the coil and when I turn the key on it lights up...
Put the probe on the post going in the distributor and rolled it over and nothing....
That post going through the distributor is suspect.
Research showed a small tab of spring steel on the inside that connects to the points.
It was long gone as it is fragile and was replaced with a piece of wire. I couldn't find the proper spring steel piece so I made a new wire.
Rotor spins clockwise and points open and close but no spark
Is that post going through the body of the distributor supposed to be shielded?
I feel like I'm either grounded where I shouldn't be or not grounded where I should be
Perfect example of knowing just enough to be dangerous
 
The primary terminal stud is not ''shielded'', but needs to be insulated from the distributor body.

Try this... connect you unpowered test light between chassis ground and the primary terminal stud and crank the engine.

Light should flash ''on'' and ''off'' as the engine cranks.

If light stays on steady you have an ''open'' between the terminal stud and the breaker points, or the points aren't making contact, could be gapped too wide or have a non-conductive film on them.

If light never comes on, even with the breaker points ''open'' there's a short to ground at the terminal stud, condenser, or breaker points.

Could also be a failed/''open'' primary wire between the coil and the primary terminal on the distributor, or failed/''open'' coil.
 
Ok so shielded isn't the right term, how is it insulated?
The way they had it hooked up on the post inside the distributor was jankey with a plastic washer and a forked connector with just one prong making the connection but it didn't have spark so I made a new wire with a loop connector to insure a positive connection
I really feel like it's going to be something to do with that
 
Hello Coos welcome to YT! The parts dept. of the
company that provides this forum for us free of charge
or adds carries a replacement terminal for the wire
connection to the distributor. They show it fitting an
850 as shown in the link, but do not have it listed as
fitting an 860. However, a competitor shows the same
part as fitting both. I am not a Ford guy so I cannot tell
you how probable it will be that it will fit. If you would
call the YT parts and asked the and they say yes,
I would say you should be able to return them.
YT Ford distributor replacement terminal
 
...or if not too picky,
Tr2wggv.jpg
 
Thank you for the great information.
Several people, yourself included, helped me regain my confidence. I will be back on the project soon and I appreciate you
 
It was the post through the distributor grounding out
Started so fast it scared me lol
Thanks to everyone for the input
 

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