641 May need a new rearend or rear end housing

anwalker

New User
So I tore the rear drawbar guide plate off the back of my 641 and broke all of the bolts off in the rear casting. One of the ears broke off a long time ago. I have tried drilling them out with cobalt m42 drills and broke off a bit in one of the bolts and the other holes are in pretty bade shape also. All that hardware was hardened and fighting all the way. At this point I'm reading to yank the rear and replace it. I live in pilot mountain nc and was wondering if anyone in the surrounding area would have something that would work. I'm not against using an 801 rear end but I'm not sure what the spline count is on my 59 641. My horns and gears are all ok.
 
Do you have access to a torch? If
you get a hardened bolt cherry red
and douce it will ice water you can
use a punch and hammer and it will
shatter like glass. Then chase the
threads with a bottoming tap.
 
Good tip but we tried drilling them out so they are about 1" recessed into the housing and the drill bit walked and wallowd the holes out to the point it would need to go up 1 tap size assuming I could even get the rest of the bolts out.
 
Do you have to use the drawbar or could you just put a trailer mover on the hitch? And yes an 801 rear will bolt up. I had to do that swap after breaking teeth off my 641 ring gear. You need the whole rear from hydraulic section back. The 801 ring gear and axles are larger and wont work with the 601 rear. Easy swap. A benifit I found was the lower axle ratio of the 801 rear I used offset the 13.6 tires I was using.

This post was edited by RobCons on 02/25/2023 at 04:24 pm.
 
I may do that or if I can find a good used 641 rear housing near me. Ther is a guy that has a complete rear end he claims is a 600 but it's blue so I'm guessing it's a 2000. Let me know if any of you have one for sale. My running gear is good but would swap the whole rear if necessary. Not sure what splines a 59 641 runs.
 
My 641 was a 58 or 59 year model and I think it was fine splines. But that project was three or four years ago. I'm pretty sure the splines from a 600 wont match up to a 601.
 
If you are drilling down in there an inch you have
enough threads to hold that plate. Just leave that old
bolt in there and thread a new bigger one one top of it.
If you have a partial bolt left in there and maybe even a
drill bit blast it out with a torch. It might be hard on the
tip, but a torch tip is less than the cost of a rear
housing and the labor to swap it out. May need to buy
a bottoming tap so you get threads down in the hole as
far as you can. I do not know much about Fords I just
know they a quite similar to the Massey 65 we had on
the farm. How big are those bolts that hold the PTO in?
Are they 3/8 inch? If so can you weld some tabs on it
to fasten the corner to those bolts where the casting is
broke to help hold it. What were you doing to tear it off
of there? My guess is the bolts were loose and you
kept using it. You PULL off the main drawbar not that
thing. Once repaired install bolts into clean holes with
Loctite and check them occasionally to make sure they
are staying tight.
CNHI Ford 641 part diagram
 
Well I've really messed up now. So Saturday I was able to get the upper two holes repaired but when I drilled out the 2 lower holes they punched through to the gear box. The lower left hole I re threaded and installed a bolt covered in sealant but the other hole walked so bad I had to install a 1/4 npt pipe plug to seal it. I've never had anything fight this hard. I'm thinking I hit a stump and that's what ripped the plate off. My draw plate is so bent it won't reinstall flat. The last company I worked for had a massing flattening press and I had it straightend out when I did the restoration. Don't have access to that now.
 
Would you mind driving about 2 1/2
hours to Rutherford County, NC? If
not give this guy a call. He has
quite a few old fords being parted
out. I bought a front axle support
for my 851 from him a year or so
ago. He's a one man show so if no
answer call back.

Harold Smith Equipment. One- eight
two eight two four five one two
four five.
 
When you have given up. I just take my
torch and melt the bolts out. Cast won't
hardly melt. If can't use a tap and get
good threads. Just bore the holes out a
size bigger. Bore them all the way thru.
Then just silicon the bolts. You have
nothing to lose. I would drain the oil
first. Lol.
 

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