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How to repair wallowed out hydraulic cylinder pin bracke

T

timsch

Member
I've got a wallowed out pin mount bracket that I'd like to repair. What'd be the best way? I see three options. WHat others are there?

1. Replace whole bracket - need to drill/machine hole in bracket. I don't have the best tooling to drill hole properly

2. Bore out hole oversized and weld in an insert - Need to get/make insert

3. Fill wallowed out area with weld filler - need to get something to take up pin space when welding.

IMG-20230209-120702585-HDR.jpg


I have welding machines, a plasma cutter, etc.

How would you go about doing this?
 
Assuming the bracket is mounted on the tractor and not practical to remove it...

I would cut the old brackets off, make 2 new brackets as close as you can, take them to a machine shop and
have the holes bored straight and true to fit the new pin.

Then assemble the brackets, pin, and cylinder on the tractor, weld them in place so everything stays true.

If the mount can be removed, and there is a practical way to hold it straight and true on a mill table,
make 2 new brackets, weld them on, making sure they are parallel with each other and properly spaced, then
have the hole bored through to fit the pin.
 

Each pin is held with 2 brackets, each made from 1/4" plate and butt welded onto the frame. Removing them would be easy enough with either the plasma cutter or a side-grinder w/ a cutoff wheel.
 

I'm not getting a good picture in my mind what you're trying to tell me. I'd interpret the last part of what you wrote as "add filler to build up the wallowed out area", which I could then grind to shape.

Are "carbon sticks" CS filler rod?
 
(quoted from post at 13:15:57 02/09/23)
I'm not getting a good picture in my mind what you're trying to tell me. I'd interpret the last part of what you wrote as "add filler to build up the wallowed out area", which I could then grind to shape.

Are "carbon sticks" CS filler rod?
Click to expand...
looked at the link for the carbon sticks. They sell plates and rods made of carbon that are used as dams or forms to block weld metal from flowing where you don't want it. The idea is to put a carbon rod in the hole that is the same size and location as the hole you need to remake. Then weld the wallowed out hole up to the carbon rod. when you remove the carbon rod it will leave a clean hole the size of the rod.

I would think that you could do something similar with the refractory cement used for repairing firebrick applied to a steel pipe. Menards and Home Depot sell it.
 
I bought a backhoe/loader with the pins and bushings wallowed outlike that. I made a longer pin and then welded a set collar on each side of the bracket the pins went through and drilled the set screw hole clear theough to install a locking bolt and nut.They have been runing this way for 20+ years now. I just keep the pins greased.
 
There's no precision fit/mission critical
fit involved here. In WAY less time than
you guys have been discussing this I
would have welded up the worn area and
cleaned up the repaired hole with a die
grinder to a nice snug fit on a new pin
making it fit as good as new. The LAST
thing I would consider doing would be to
chop off the whole plate and start over.
WAY overkill for the simple mechanism
involved here, IMHO.
 
The advantage of doing it Gene's way is that you are adding bearing surface to the support plates. I'd do it that way as long as you have greasability at the surface where the pin rubs. steve
 
(quoted from post at 22:22:36 02/09/23) I bought a backhoe/loader with the pins and bushings wallowed outlike that. I made a longer pin and then welded a set collar on each side of the bracket the pins went through and drilled the set screw hole clear theough to install a locking bolt and nut.They have been runing this way for 20+ years now. I just keep the pins greased.
Click to expand...
Gene's fix would be easiest.
Your existing pin is likely worn and needs replaced.
You would not need to drill a thru hole to retain the pin. You could just drill a dimple in the pin at the set screw hole in the set collars.
Install set screw deep into dimple. Pack hard grease into set screw.
Doing that would also let you rotate the pin in the future if pin where dictates.

Or since you have a plasma cutter you could cut the plate hole to match the set collar. Then recess the collar into the plate.

This post was edited by DoubleO7 on 02/10/2023 at 06:40 am.
 
I missed that the Carbon Sticks was a hyperlink. I understand now. I don't find them readily available, at least online, even at a welding supply place like Cyberweld.

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. Good ideas I'll keep in mind, but I think 1st I'll just use the welder and die griender as Wore Out mentioned. If for whatever reason that leads to problems in the long run, I'll look at Gene's option.
 
Cut plate off , make a new plate with grease fitting , bigger bearing surfaces for pin it that will be acceptable fit , ,weld it back on , my
suggestion
Good project, be digging in no time better that new
 
When I built the plates for my homemade loader frame, I cut out two identical plates (with a metal band saw) vise gripped them together, and drilled the right size pin holes simultaneously through both plates. The $25 one inch drill bit was a very good investment. I made sure the drill press was drilling exactly vertical to the table. Then I made a spacer out of pipe that was just a little wider than the pin bosses on the loader frame. I ran my new pin through the spacer with a plate on each side, c-clamped them together and placed them back where they belonged on the support frame, and welded them on both sides. The key to doing it this way is making sure both ends of your spacer pipe are exactly square to the sides of the pipe, and a scooch too long, to accommodate the welds pulling the plates in too tight. You may have to hammer your spacer out, once the welds cool. If all else fails, a rat tail file is your friend, to make the pins slip in easily. steve
 
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