Massey 135 multipower with auxiliary ports

Hi all,

I recently bought a multipower 135 off a relative knowing it has a hydrualic problem. The problem being that the hydrualic will not lower even when pushing down on the arms.

I have recently tried to open the PTO cover plate (to change the filter) only to discover that i cant get it open due to that large nut circled in a photo attached. I havent a socket/spanner to suit.

I have managed to find a workshop book which shows what is behind the plate. (i have attachd this also) I seems to be a head ache behind there and i dont understand how it would be possible to get the filter out due to all the auxliary pipes etc.

I was wanting to remove the hydrulic lift cover from the tractor to firstly get to the bottom of the issues of the hydrulics not lowering (I have a few ideas as to what it is but would appreciate any ideas also). Secondly i want to undo the nut from behind and remove the pto cover plate to insert a gasket. Thirdly i want to change the filter.

My question- Becasue this tractor has axuilary ports, im afraid that when taking of the hydraulic cover, these axualiary ports/fittings etc will be in the way or could end up damaged. I cannot seem to find anything on removing hydrulic lift covers with auxilary ports. Any help or guidance would be apprciated.

Thanks

Tractors with the auxiliary hydraulics need the lift cover removed first, so the lines can be removed from the PTO shift cover INSIDE.

Thansk for the reply.

Yeah i thought so after i opened the PTO plate, thanks for confirming. What about lifting the cover out, would there be any inner connections to the cover that would me from lifting it out?

Get a service manual BEFORE you remove the lift cover. There's a roller to remove on the three point pump BEFORE the cover is removed.

(quoted from post at 16:47:49 02/07/23) Get a service manual BEFORE you remove the lift cover. There's a roller to remove on the three point pump BEFORE the cover is removed.

Click to expand...

I have a workshop manual but i does not detail the internals of the auxilary equipment that is attached to the hydrulic lift cover. It details on how to remove the cover without this option. I have attached an image showing the auxilary valve selector which i beleive is the only component that differs from the standard lift cover

reading further, the compoent that i have on the top cover, this one



replaces the standard compoent shown below


so i think its ok to assume that the standpipe (2) remains the same.

The lift cover cap is the least of your worries. Tractor also does NOT have a filter inside, but an inlet screen. If the lift cover has the Pressure control quadrant, the
standpipe will not pull out the top either like other lift covers will. The dealer I worked for years ago used to repair state highway 135s a lot with hydraulic damage
when the lift cover was pulled without removing the pump control lever roller first. The screen works fine without cleaning IF oil is kept clean and changed per the
owners manual.

(quoted from post at 19:30:58 02/07/23) The lift cover cap is the least of your worries. Tractor also does NOT have a filter inside, but an inlet screen. If the lift cover has the Pressure control quadrant, the
standpipe will not pull out the top either like other lift covers will. The dealer I worked for years ago used to repair state highway 135s a lot with hydraulic damage
when the lift cover was pulled without removing the pump control lever roller first. The screen works fine without cleaning IF oil is kept clean and changed per the
owners manual.

Click to expand...

just so im on the same page, when you say, control lever roller, you mean this wee roller?


I will be sure to take this out before removing the cover, thanks for the advice. So, if i lift the the cover of from the tractor, the standpipe (as long as it is pulled up to lossen) should come with the lift cover assembly and there are no extra auxiliary compoenets to worry about?

That's the roller, just spread the arms enough to remove it. The standpipe will move a little on the Pressure control models but won't come out the top like other
standpipes will. With the roller out the lift cover can be removed straight up from the diff case.

Thanks for theses replys, they are greatly appreciated. Would it be possible to remove the cover using this method in your opnion instead of lifting sraight up (i havent the lifting gear to have a controlled lift up)?

That works on OLDER tractors, not for newer models.

If you don't have a rafter to hang a come along to, best to procure a cherry picker.

The cover is not extremely heavy, probably a 150 pounds or so. It's just more than can be safely removed
and installed with manpower alone. More danger to the tractor than the men.

The standpipe will come out with the cover, but don't try to put it back in with it in the cover. It
will miss the hole and may damage the pipe.

Going to be interesting what you find. Sometimes the cylinder and link are damaged by an uncontrolled
lift. The lift pressure kept pushing even though the lift was all the way up. If something is broken,
good chance that happened. On your first start, be sure not to let that happen again. You can take
control of the roller manually by disconnecting the lever to be sure it has control. Have someone ready
to shut it off before it tops out if it fails to respond.

And change the oil, it has water in it! Common for those to collect water. It gets in around the shift
boots and the draft link boot. Now would be a good time to replace the draft boot, even if it's not
torn. Getting the draft link apart can be a real ordeal. I had to saw mine with a Sawzall between the
spring coils, get the nut off, and weld it back together. Follow the adjustment procedure exactly!

Thanks everyone for this information, really is appreciated.

My plan off attack is to remove the selector value at the top of the lift cover. This may release pressure of the arms and may allow them to lower along with the draft fully up.

I will then proceed to take RHS cover off and see what's going on in there and remove the roller and remove the lift cover.

I'll reinstall the PTO plate with new gasket and replace/clean oil filters if she has any in there.

I'll probably get a mechanic out to look at the hydraulics once out if there is nothing obviously wrong with it

I'll keep this updated with what I find out and any other questions I have I'll also put on for there is little information about diagnosis of stuck hydraulics in the raised position.

Before taking anything apart, open the left cover, move the position lever and see if the lever moves
the roller. It won't move much, but it should move. If it moves then you know not to mess with any of
the adjustments under the cover. That can be a real mess if it gets out of wack!

Try unhooking the roller, see if moving the roller will let the arms down. Start it and see if moving
the roller arm will have any effect or load the pump or cause oil to rain down from a blown cylinder.

But I suspect something is jammed or broken. It should creep down not running.

How did the lift work before this happened? Was it smooth or slow and jerky? If it was slow and jerky
the pump needs attention, might as well take care of that while the cover is off.

They were smooth. They hydrualics were always set up for the front loader and they are also smooth.

I forgot to mention on this forum that there was a rear weight on her for a while but it was on a locking top link to the stress was on the top link and not so much on the hydrualics. That could of done the harm.

Also i did notice today that as the draft is raised, it does not want to stay raised and is very stiff. It just want to return to the a lower state like a spring. So i assume that shouldnt happen and that it is reason as to why the hydrulic arms are stuck in the raised position.

Hi all,

I have opend the side cover and all seemed normal, the arm was moving and engauged with the roller. So i then procceded with removing the lift cover.



Initially the seal broke no problem, but as i stared to lift the cover it was as if there was somehting holding it down. I eventualy found out it was due to the fully extended cylinder. I tried to shimmy it out but it wasnt for coming out with the cylinder fully extended.

Pic below shows the cylinder



I tried to knock the cylinder in using the arms and they started to move (very very slowly). However i didnt want to proceed due to the amount of resistance i felt when hitting the arms. I wanted to consult this forum first and here peoples thoughs. I have shoked the arms in WD40 and also the grease nipples. Im leaving it sitting over night-Im not sure if its seized arms or not.

I have one more thing to add (maybe not important) and that is, when i was hitting the arms to get the cylinder to retract, oil shot out this hole shown in pic below. Probably the oil trapped behind the cylinder and maybe proving that it is infact moing.



Feedback would be much apprciated

Thanks



This post was edited by Patrick98 on 02/11/2023 at 11:19 am.

I cannot offer any solid advice here, since I havent ever been under the lift cover.

But my thought was.... Can you loosen the fitting on the outlet side of the pump? That would release the pressure that would be on the lift cylinder, assuming that it isnt physically broken/damaged.

Hi,
I do believe it is a siezed cross shaft linking the hydrulic arms. There is a considerable amount of corrosion under the cover next to the draft pin (the pin itself is free).


The control valve is also free and moving a it should.

I have found that the grease nipples could off let in water as they were only hand tight and corroded. I also believe the the draft spring and cover many need replacing but ill no more once i have the shaft free.

This post was edited by Patrick98 on 02/17/2023 at 05:16 am.