2010 overhaul

e.angeny

New User
Hi, I'm looking into doing an engine rebuild on my paps John Deere 2010 diesel. It was overhauled about 50 years ago. This is a learning experience for me, I don't know where to start looking for parts. Are there any kits out there? Do they still make the parts? I know this tractor has a deck plate built on the cylinder sleeves. Does that need to be replaced? How do I time the engine to take the head off. Do I need special tools to remove certain parts. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Elijah
 
Sounds like you definitely need a Service Manual
before you begin this task. I would recommend the one
in the list I have linked for your tractor named Gas and
Diesel Service Manual with 594 pages. I am going to
go against my normal rule of not mentioning this on
the forum but if you are okay with a downloadable PDF
version go to the Farm Manuals Fast site, it is legit.
That version is about half price. That engine is a bit
more complex with the integral deck plate and
cylinders. Whether it needs replaced depends on the
amount of wear in the cylinders so that is a wait and
see thing. YT does not look to have many parts for the
diesel version of your tractor. I am also not sure what
JD still has to offer for your machine. You can actually
look that up on line, see 2nd link. You will have to
select the nearest dealer to you to see availability and
prices. I hope you realize this endeavor will easily have
a cost of over $3000. I would also recommend you
place future post regarding this task in the John Deere
topic section.
YT JD manuals

JD 2010 online parts catalog
 
used red MN,

The info you posted is good however if he is using Modern, your post doesn't show in Modern because of the word: download able (without the space). Best to say something can be downloaded. It's apparently one of those pesky filter things between the two views. I'm going to ask Chris about that, I figured that out when I tried to use that word.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/20/2022 at 01:01 pm.
 

Welcome to the Forum.

As used red MN has pointed out you need the JD service manual. It will tell you the recommended special tools.

Is it running now? If so, what are the symptoms indicating, it needs a rebuild. As to what parts it will need, such as the sleeve deck plate, inspection and measurements are the only way to know if replacements are needed. The planned use after you rebuild it can make a difference when deciding to replace or not. If it is not going to be a hard-working production unit, you might get away with things slightly over spec allowances. JMHO

The engine doesn't need to be timed to remove the head; it should be for removing the injection pump. If you are going to truly fully overhaul it chances are, you will need to retime it anyway as you assemble it, and the manual will have that info.

Just so you know. Current price I see for a deck plate from JD is about $1500 (if available). Pistons at about $375 each ($1500 for 4) plus rings pins, bushings, bearings, machine work, etc. You may do better by shopping around, but I would suggest a lot of research before tearing it down.
 
(quoted from post at 14:32:45 11/20/22)
Welcome to the Forum.

As used red MN has pointed out you need the JD service manual. It will tell you the recommended special tools.

Is it running now? If so, what are the symptoms indicating, it needs a rebuild. As to what parts it will need, such as the sleeve deck plate, inspection and measurements are the only way to know if replacements are needed. The planned use after you rebuild it can make a difference when deciding to replace or not. If it is not going to be a hard-working production unit, you might get away with things slightly over spec allowances. JMHO

The engine doesn't need to be timed to remove the head; it should be for removing the injection pump. If you are going to truly fully overhaul it chances are, you will need to retime it anyway as you assemble it, and the manual will have that info.

Just so you know. Current price I see for a deck plate from JD is about $1500 (if available). Pistons at about $375 each ($1500 for 4) plus rings pins, bushings, bearings, machine work, etc. You may do better by shopping around, but I would suggest a lot of research before tearing it down.

It is showing excessive amounts of blow by. We would like to continue using it for farming. I expect it to be working hard.
 
Thanks Jim, I do post almost exclusively in Classic. I did in fact run across the same problem recently over that word. However, I did not drill it in the memory bank to avoid it. I did realize one view would accept something and the other will not. Is there really anyway not tell what view a poster is using other than happening across the inconsistencies between the two by viewing both? Unlike some I am not glued to Classic, I can only hope whatever software change they keep talking about happens sooner then later. Anything that makes this goofiness go away could only raise the viewership here. IMHO
 
I actually did not check Modern before I replied. It is showing there now. I think it is a matter of taking a certain amount of time for it to sync the 2 views. When I checked the post my reply to you about my post not showing in Modern had not been synced to Modern at that point. I will check it later. I post from an iPhone but I do not see how a browser could be selective as to what it shows on a web page, although I am by far a computer genius. I think I will email support just to see if they are getting close to the software switch.
Edit: Jim if you are following this this reply posted to Modern immediately, at least as viewed on my phone.

This post was edited by used red MN on 11/20/2022 at 02:38 pm.
 
e.angeny,

Teardown then evaluation is the only sure way to know what parts are actually needed. I believe some sleeve decks could be bored and oversized pistons used. Again, study and searching (including calling and checking if what is shown on an internet site is actually available) will be required. If the liners are good and you are lucky you might get away with honing the bores and new rings, but measurements are needed, maybe they have already been bored.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/20/2022 at 02:50 pm.
 
used red MN,

The YT site filters control what can or can't post to a view, not your browser.

Update: I just checked Site Comments and Chris had replied to my question of the word downloadable. He thinks it might have been blocked in both views, at one time due to a specific attack. The block was removed in Classic but not in Modern. He has removed that block from Modern and your first post shows in Modern now.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/20/2022 at 02:49 pm.
 
A friend of mine mentioned doing
the same thing to his Dad's 2010
diesel a couple months ago. I
advised him to run it like it is
until it won't and then scrap it.

By the time you buy the parts, get
the head rebuilt, block cleaned,
cam bearings installed, ip pump
rebuilt along with new injectors
and gaskets and seals, plus the
clutch and pressure plate you will
have between 5 & 6 grand in a
tractor that's only worth half that
much. It doesn't make economic
sense.
 
Elijah, be very careful what you get yourself into !

As said, good chance you will spend more than the tractor is worth to do the job correctly.

Unlike an old gas engine that could be patched together and run a while longer, diesels are very
unforgiving of shortcuts and mistakes! They will find a way to self-destruct for the smallest of
reasons.

If you want to do this, I suggest you do the dirty work, dismantling the accessories and pulling the
engine, but let a reputable (check their record closely) shop do the actual engine work.

It will not be cheap, but neither is having it come apart because something was overlooked!
 

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