OldMassey44
Member
Hello, just wondering what common problems come up with these engines when it's already known it needs a headgasket and oil rings. This is the gas version of the H260.
- Thread starter OldMassey44
- Start date
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
Hello Massey welcome to YT! I am an IH guy so I
cannot give you any tips. I would recommend posting
this on the manufacturer topic section for MF and MH
tractors, see link.
MF & MH topic section
cannot give you any tips. I would recommend posting
this on the manufacturer topic section for MF and MH
tractors, see link.
MF & MH topic section
Masseyharrisnut
Member
I personally would not just do oil rings if your going to have it all apart any how. Those engines are very reliable and will work many many hours with regular maintenance.
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
I just took it as he is not real knowledgeable about engines and proper terminology. So he called the ..piston ring sets.. by the name of ..oil rings.. because worn rings make an engine use oil and smoke.
MasseyHarrisNut: Great looking 44. It's nice to see someone who's painted the sides of their rad the proper black. Almost every 33 and 44 I see has the sides of the radiator painted red, which completely ruins the curvaceous lines of the bonnet where they meld smoothly into the front shroud.
Someone once told me the sides of the rad were red from the factory. Whether true or not, I think they look way better black or dark grey.
To the OP: You'd probably have better luck on the Massey board. The only thing I've ever had done was the valves; The H260 (and other continentals of that era) had trouble with valves sticking when hot, making them hard to start soon after shut-down when they've been working hard. The last shop I had do a 44 cylinder head matched the valve guide size to something else (think it was an old Ford?). The new guides don't seem to stick nearly as bad, and it starts a lot easier when warm. Much nicer when working it hard running the sawmill or thresher.
They also seem to have a bad habit of wearing off ring gear teeth. If pulling the engine anyway, be sure to check this out.
Someone once told me the sides of the rad were red from the factory. Whether true or not, I think they look way better black or dark grey.
To the OP: You'd probably have better luck on the Massey board. The only thing I've ever had done was the valves; The H260 (and other continentals of that era) had trouble with valves sticking when hot, making them hard to start soon after shut-down when they've been working hard. The last shop I had do a 44 cylinder head matched the valve guide size to something else (think it was an old Ford?). The new guides don't seem to stick nearly as bad, and it starts a lot easier when warm. Much nicer when working it hard running the sawmill or thresher.
They also seem to have a bad habit of wearing off ring gear teeth. If pulling the engine anyway, be sure to check this out.
OldMassey44
Member
Very nice tractor, mine doesn't look near as nice! I only brought up oil rings because that's what it NEEDS, but I would do the compression rings as well, compression is 110psi on first 3 cylinders and #4 is 105psi. I bought this tractor because it was the cheapest tractor I could find that's running, and has a front end loader, I was hoping to use it around my property for smaller jobs and clearing snow in winter. Then eventually I'd like to cut and bale the small 5ish acres of hay on my property.
OldMassey44
Member
Thank you for the good information, I will write that down and look more into it when the time comes
OldMassey44
Member
I say oil rings because that is the main problem as far as rings go. I'm just being specific. Oil rings + compression rings = ring set. But at the same time I do not claim to know proper terminology, I'm still young and learning but I do have experience working on different machinery.
Masseyharrisnut
Member
Thank youDanielW. It is a great little tractor. I use it to pull my 1937 model 17 MH reaper thrasher (combine)
Masseyharrisnut
Member
Thank you oldmassey44. It is a great little tractor. I apologize if I sounded like you didnt know what you where doing regarding replacing the oil rings. That 44 you have
will do all the things that you want to do on your acreage and more. Be careful with the front end loader. Those cast frames will break because the abuse a front end
loader can cause. I have 3 parts tractors sitting in my yard that have broken frames from front end loaders.
will do all the things that you want to do on your acreage and more. Be careful with the front end loader. Those cast frames will break because the abuse a front end
loader can cause. I have 3 parts tractors sitting in my yard that have broken frames from front end loaders.
Masseyharrisnut
Member
I have an original paint, now rust of course 44 6 cylinder that looks like it had black rad panels from the factory I believe.
In behind the hood you can see remnants of black paint.
In behind the hood you can see remnants of black paint.
If you're getting those compression
numbers, I'm not sure I'd be tearing down
that engine if (as it sounds like) you're
on a bit of a budget and not doing that
much with the tractor in the immediate
future. Is it burning oil for sure and not
leaking from somewhere else (like a valve
cover gasket/front or rear main seal/oil
line)?
This suggestion is a bit crude and by no
means 'proper', but if it was burning oil
and I was in your shoes/budget, I'd pour a
good dose of Sea Foam engine cleaner in
each of the cylinders via the plug holes,
let is soak for a week, then keep spraying
a good dose of penetrating oil in the
cylinders once or twice a day for another
week. Then run it for just a minute or two
(not too long as the sea-foam/penetrant
will have run into the crankcase and
thinned out the oil) and change the oil.
Then run it hard for a bit. You may find
it frees the rings up and beds them it
well enough to keep plugging away for a
good while yet.
If you think it needs oil control rings
because it's fouling plugs, make sure you
have the right heat range plug in there
and aren't running too rich.
numbers, I'm not sure I'd be tearing down
that engine if (as it sounds like) you're
on a bit of a budget and not doing that
much with the tractor in the immediate
future. Is it burning oil for sure and not
leaking from somewhere else (like a valve
cover gasket/front or rear main seal/oil
line)?
This suggestion is a bit crude and by no
means 'proper', but if it was burning oil
and I was in your shoes/budget, I'd pour a
good dose of Sea Foam engine cleaner in
each of the cylinders via the plug holes,
let is soak for a week, then keep spraying
a good dose of penetrating oil in the
cylinders once or twice a day for another
week. Then run it for just a minute or two
(not too long as the sea-foam/penetrant
will have run into the crankcase and
thinned out the oil) and change the oil.
Then run it hard for a bit. You may find
it frees the rings up and beds them it
well enough to keep plugging away for a
good while yet.
If you think it needs oil control rings
because it's fouling plugs, make sure you
have the right heat range plug in there
and aren't running too rich.
OldMassey44
Member
That is good to know, explains the crack in the frame on the left side rear of the engine. I only saw it after it arrived at my place. Any tips to fix it?
OldMassey44
Member
I may try that out, it does leak at the valve cover but it's fouling plugs pretty bad. Iv only run it about 4 times now and the last 3 wasn't for even an hour and all 3 times cylinder 1,2 and 3 were so caked up with oil they covered the gap on the plug. It's too early to say if they are staying cleaner with every run but drive #4 seemed to keep running smoother for longer. I have yet to take them out to see how they look. Ive been hoping it's just stuck rings due to being told it sat for the last 5 years. I just bought Champion D16 plugs for it. I also installed new points, condenser and rotor and then timed it, which got it running alot smoother, till the plugs get dirty again.
Masseyharrisnut
Member
Those frames can be welded and reinforced by a qualified welder. Im not that guy. Those tractors with that style of cast frames where never built to handle a front end
loader.
loader.
OldMassey44
Member
I'm not that guy either! Thank you for letting me know though
OldMassey44
Member
This is the one I'm talking about. Not the best shape but for what I'm using it for it fits the job to be abit of a beater.
OldMassey44
Member
More pictures
This post was edited by OldMassey44 on 10/24/2022 at 10:40 am.
This post was edited by OldMassey44 on 10/24/2022 at 10:40 am.
OldMassey44
Member
More pictures
Masseyharrisnut
Member
Hey oldmassey44. Looks like a decent tractor to me. The only way it would look better for my own personal reasons is if the loader was taken off. It will be a good tractor
for you when you get the issues fixed.
for you when you get the issues fixed.
OldMassey44
Member
Could you explain why? Just till it slows down the burning of oil or D21 for good?
OldMassey44
Member
I hope it will be a good tractor. I would like to slowly paint it as I fix it up. I do like the black radiator sides yours has.
OldMassey44
Member
I couldn't see 2 of the other pictures I posted, did these work?
OldMassey44
Member
Thanks for letting me know, I will definitely change them out when I get a chance
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