My farmall h is hard to crank even with a fully charged battery it will barely turn over. Here’s what I have and have done: had battery checked tested good, 6 volt system with #1 gauge battery cables, completely rebuilt starter, new switch. I have cleaned the starter base that mounts against the block and the block completely. Battery ground is grounded to the starter bolt with no paint underneath. Wondering if I still have a ground issue or is there something else I am missing? Thanks for any help
- Thread starter mcrow4117
- Start date
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
An easy test to run:
Crank on the engine for a few seconds, check every connection for heat. If any thing is heating up, that indicates a weak connection.
If you have an analog volt meter, compare the voltage across the battery posts (the posts, not the cable ends) while cranking, to the voltage between the starter stud (the stud itself) and the starter case. This is easiest with an assistant.
It will be hard to get an exact reading because the voltage fluctuates as the engine turns through, but try to look for a general pattern. The readings should be relatively close to the same. If the reading at the starter is lower than across the battery, there is a weak connection. Start moving one meter lead at a time while cranking, looking for where the voltage drops. Check the starter switch carefully, a common problem area, even if new.
Also, be sure the engine is free to turn. Could be an accessory, binding water pump, generator, loaded hydraulic pump... Does holding the clutch down make it turn easier?
Crank on the engine for a few seconds, check every connection for heat. If any thing is heating up, that indicates a weak connection.
If you have an analog volt meter, compare the voltage across the battery posts (the posts, not the cable ends) while cranking, to the voltage between the starter stud (the stud itself) and the starter case. This is easiest with an assistant.
It will be hard to get an exact reading because the voltage fluctuates as the engine turns through, but try to look for a general pattern. The readings should be relatively close to the same. If the reading at the starter is lower than across the battery, there is a weak connection. Start moving one meter lead at a time while cranking, looking for where the voltage drops. Check the starter switch carefully, a common problem area, even if new.
Also, be sure the engine is free to turn. Could be an accessory, binding water pump, generator, loaded hydraulic pump... Does holding the clutch down make it turn easier?
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
For what it's worth, original battery cables on the H were #2 gauge. #1 gauge is a big improvement and is plenty big enough. If the #1 won't do it, #0 or #00 won't do it ether.
tractorguy2
Well-known Member
I would agree you need 0 cables. Also have you replaced the big
starter button? Sure made a difference on my Case sc.
starter button? Sure made a difference on my Case sc.
Switch doesn't need a ground,it just completes the connection between the battery and starter. I think your problem is the size of the cables,unless the bushings are dragging in the starter. An old dealer mechanic told me that a 00 cable will give you twice the amps as a 1 gauge on a 6 volt application. I had him make up a new set for two of mine and they worked. Just don't forget,you have three cables there. Ground,battery to switch and switch to starter.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
The push button starter switch has 2 posts. One for the cable from the battery, and one for the cable to the starter. That switch is NOT grounded. However, SOME of those new, aftermarket replacement switches are somewhat defective. Might want to try another new switch.
Years ago probably back in 70's, could have been 60's 41 H had put on a couple of rebuilt starters because of it. Had replaced battery cable with TSC over counter cable the was a foot longer than needed but what they had. Fought the starting problem for several years. Had mechanic out for something else and Dad asked him what he thought. Said just cut the excess out of cable and put on one of the bolt on replacement ends so did and no starting problems after. That was befor anybody though about converting to a 12 volt system. Just a standard group 1 6 volt battery. Traded tractor off in 1984 after getting it in 49.
Years ago probably back in 70's, could have been 60's 41 H had put on a couple of rebuilt starters because of it. Had replaced battery cable with YSC over counter cable the was a foot longer than needed but what they had. Fought the starting problem for several years. Had mechanic out for something else and Dad asked him what he thought. Said just cut the excess out of cable and put on one of the bolt on replacement so did and no starting problems after. That was befor anybody though about converting to a 12 volt system. Just a standard group 1 6 volt battery. Traded tractor off in 1984 after getting it in 49.
I replaced the battery cables and installed a new push button switch made sure the battery was charged completely and started good once after that went back to the barely turning over. Think I am taking the battery back tomorrow to be tested again and Try a new battery. Doesn’t seem to be taking or holding a charge very well. Thanks for everyone’s help I will keep y’all posted on the outcome.
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
I have the same problem with my Case tractor. Nothing wrong with the starter, battery or any of the wiring, the motor just turns hard. Usually in the morning I have only one chance to start it and if I get it running I have to leave it running. If I turn the tractor off I have to let the engine cool quite a bit before it will start again. The tractor either needs a starter with twice the HP or an idea where the friction is coming from.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Stephen, revisit the starter.
Typical symptoms of a starter with worn bushings, armature dragging inside the field.
Typical symptoms of a starter with worn bushings, armature dragging inside the field.
After trying to crank if over a few times check all the cable connections and touch them to see which one is warm. If one is warm then that
one has a bad connection. My "H" had the same problem at the starter button. I took it apart, cleaned it and retightened it. Haven't had the
problem since. Moral of my story is "A loose connection is always warm/hot that causes high resistance".
one has a bad connection. My "H" had the same problem at the starter button. I took it apart, cleaned it and retightened it. Haven't had the
problem since. Moral of my story is "A loose connection is always warm/hot that causes high resistance".
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
I had a thread about this last year, the starter wasn't turning the engine over enough to start so I purchased a used starter online and it did the same thing. After exhausting every other possible cause I took the starter off and had it professionally overhauled and the problem is better now but is still there. I think the problem is the engine. While I had it apart I tried to turn the engine over by hand and it was all I could do to turn it over. It just takes a lot more torque than I think it should.
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