locking differential shaft on Belarus 572

belarusbilly

New User
Oil is leaking from the locking differential shaft onto the brake discs on my Belarus 572. I need to replace the two "o" rings that fit inside the shaft on the right side of the tractor. My service manual describes how to remove the shaft on the left side of the tractor but not the right side. Frankly I am stumped and any help would be appreciated!
 
Hi you can't find instructions for the other side as one sides the handbrake set up and the other is
the diff lock. Diff lock is the one with the oil line going in on left side. the hand brake is the
outer one on the right side you should have a linkage connecting that one to the park brake lever.
once I know which side you are working on as to the way you are looking at the tractor I can tell
you more. Regards Robert ( used to service & sell these tractors from our family dealership)
 
(quoted from post at 15:30:53 04/05/18) Hi you can't find instructions for the other side as one sides the handbrake set up and the other is
the diff lock. Diff lock is the one with the oil line going in on left side. the hand brake is the
outer one on the right side you should have a linkage connecting that one to the park brake lever.
once I know which side you are working on as to the way you are looking at the tractor I can tell
you more. Regards Robert ( used to service & sell these tractors from our family dealership)

Thanks for your reply Robert. I'm working on the hand brake side. There is a two piece shaft and I assume the outer piece is for the handbrake. The oil is leaking where the two pieces join together. I need to pull the outer shaft to replace the "O" Rings that fit where the two shafts join together. I tried to pull it out by hand without success. I now have it dismantled all the way to the big bearing and housing. I tried to pull the housing with the two service bolt holes but it was such a hard pull I was afraid I was going to break something. Again, I'm stumped and again, thanks for your reply. Billy
 
Ok I'm trying to figure it from your description, what you have on the right side is 2 brake housings with 2 discs and expanders in. the outer one
is the handbrake and the inner set is the right foot brake. it sounds like you are trying to get the hand brake shaft out. which is the solid end
shaft with splines about 4" long on it. the 2 o rings seal the inner to the outer being the hollow shaft , the new rings being a bit over 1"
diameter it's been a while since i did them.

The hand brake shaft is about a couple feet long usually if the rings are bad they pull out by hand easily it's only tight a few inches in. You can
try prying in the gap between the ends of the 2 shafts and it should pop out, I never had one wouldn't come out that hard. I'm wondering if the
splines are twisted on the shaft and it's tight in the diff gear. Guys will drive those tractors with the park brake on, and snap those shafts when
they try steering with one side of the diff locked that the brake works on.

I've seen some come out and the splines are twisted pretty good, and they were close to snapping. I have fished a couple snapped ends out with a
magnet tool, but never had a snapped end stuck in. I do remember a factory tech telling me you can take the other side apart where the diff lock
pack fits in, and knock the piece out with a long shaft as it is hollow right through the middle of the diff gears. From what i see in the parts
book he's right that would work.

It sounds like you have the next brake in apart and have the flat plate off that holds the 2 50x70x10 oil seals thats sealed to the bearing
housing with another big o ring. That next plate in with the big bearing in won't come out unless you take the rear axle apart and remove the big
final drive gear, as that housing sits either side of the big internal final gear. I don't know if you have had the other side apart as thats a
whole program with that hydraulic diff lock pack and getting it back together as well.
Hope that helps if not ask more questions and i'll try help more. Regards Robert
 
(quoted from post at 20:55:57 04/05/18) Ok I'm trying to figure it from your description, what you have on the right side is 2 brake housings with 2 discs and expanders in. the outer one
is the handbrake and the inner set is the right foot brake. it sounds like you are trying to get the hand brake shaft out. which is the solid end
shaft with splines about 4" long on it. the 2 o rings seal the inner to the outer being the hollow shaft , the new rings being a bit over 1"
diameter it's been a while since i did them.

The hand brake shaft is about a couple feet long usually if the rings are bad they pull out by hand easily it's only tight a few inches in. You can
try prying in the gap between the ends of the 2 shafts and it should pop out, I never had one wouldn't come out that hard. I'm wondering if the
splines are twisted on the shaft and it's tight in the diff gear. Guys will drive those tractors with the park brake on, and snap those shafts when
they try steering with one side of the diff locked that the brake works on.

I've seen some come out and the splines are twisted pretty good, and they were close to snapping. I have fished a couple snapped ends out with a
magnet tool, but never had a snapped end stuck in. I do remember a factory tech telling me you can take the other side apart where the diff lock
pack fits in, and knock the piece out with a long shaft as it is hollow right through the middle of the diff gears. From what i see in the parts
book he's right that would work.

It sounds like you have the next brake in apart and have the flat plate off that holds the 2 50x70x10 oil seals thats sealed to the bearing
housing with another big o ring. That next plate in with the big bearing in won't come out unless you take the rear axle apart and remove the big
final drive gear, as that housing sits either side of the big internal final gear. I don't know if you have had the other side apart as thats a
whole program with that hydraulic diff lock pack and getting it back together as well.
Hope that helps if not ask more questions and i'll try help more. Regards Robert

Robert: What you described by knocking it out from the other side is exactly what I was thinking about trying. I have both sides dismantled and I can see the end of the handbrake shaft with a flashlight. I was a little reluctant to do it without talking with someone with some knowledge but now I am going to try it. I'll let you know how it worked out. Thanks again for taking the time to help me. If you are ever in Central Arkansas look me up and I will buy you a steak. Billy
 
Hi Billy

Glad I could help I'm in Canada so probably won't be passing but that don't matter to me anyway, you got what you needed to know. what are the
other shaft oil seals like as when they start leaking they will oil the brake discs to, those brakes aren't the best when they work properly L.O.L
. just make sure the drain holes in the covers is not plugged solid with dirt to I've seen those holes so plugged I've had to use a punch and
hammer to clear them.
I don't know how you did it , That diff hyd pack can be taken out and put back in without disassembly if you got lucky fishing the 2 discs back on
the splines. it either goes real easy or after 15 frustrating mins you decide to take it apart and assemble it all on the shaft. is that leaking
anywhere as that little boss the seals ride on in the pack end plate can wear bad or the weld cracks/ those seals go bad in the cover to. also the
rubber diaphragm inside the pack can split making it leak. There are lots of those tractors out there have that line removed, and it's plugged with
a bolt as they won't stop leaking oil out of the steering reservoir at the front that feeds that pack . Regards Robert
 
(quoted from post at 07:57:52 04/06/18) Hi Billy

Glad I could help I'm in Canada so probably won't be passing but that don't matter to me anyway, you got what you needed to know. what are the
other shaft oil seals like as when they start leaking they will oil the brake discs to, those brakes aren't the best when they work properly L.O.L
. just make sure the drain holes in the covers is not plugged solid with dirt to I've seen those holes so plugged I've had to use a punch and
hammer to clear them.
I don't know how you did it , That diff hyd pack can be taken out and put back in without disassembly if you got lucky fishing the 2 discs back on
the splines. it either goes real easy or after 15 frustrating mins you decide to take it apart and assemble it all on the shaft. is that leaking
anywhere as that little boss the seals ride on in the pack end plate can wear bad or the weld cracks/ those seals go bad in the cover to. also the
rubber diaphragm inside the pack can split making it leak. There are lots of those tractors out there have that line removed, and it's plugged with
a bolt as they won't stop leaking oil out of the steering reservoir at the front that feeds that pack . Regards Robert

You are a genius Robert! The shaft was twisted just like you said but I was able to knock it out from the other side. And also just like you said I am going to have to assemble the differential hyd clutch on the shaft. I have replaced that little boss several times and it still leaks. Had a bolt in it for a while. Think I am going to put an inline valve in the line so when push comes to shove I can still have the locking differential by opening the valve.

You evidently spent a lot of time working on Belarus Tractors to have this much knowledge about them. I have had mine for twenty-four years. It's been a pretty good tractor for the money. Again I thank you for being so generous with your knowledge. Billy
 
Thanks Billy you got lucky some days I wish I'd forgot everything I know about them L.O.L I used to do a lot of fixing online, but got to the point
where I only pick certain things to reply to now. There are to many out there don't have a clue and shouldn't own tractors or tools looking for free
help. Or any time a Belarus is mentioned oh yeah they are just scrap, they aren't all bad as you know.

We sold the last of those new orange 572/825 tractors in about 96. The last pretty good Belarus where those orange ones, when they went red and
black things went south with real bad quality. A friend of mine from our dealer days that also came to Canada had a new MTZ 160 hp tractor it's gone
with less than 460 hours on, it was a complete disaster and the importers and dealers are hopeless now to .

We started our dealership in 93 in England, and ran it up until 2000 when we emigrated to Canada, I did a couple years for a dealer here,and taught
them a lot. I'm self employed and still fix a couple tractors for local guys that have them, but most of them in this area are gone now along with
the original dealer.

I'm farming more now than fixing, I got tired of everybody elses old machines of many colors looking for cheap fixes and the dealers didn't want to fix anyway because they needed to make money to. we still run
our last demo tractor from our U.K dealership it's a 920 (Canadian 5270) thats got 8000 "hard" hours and she's about worn out, and just gets used
for muck spreading and a few other jobs in the year. I upgraded to a 6400 Valtra annd wished I did it before. It's like comparing a donkey cart to a
fancy sports car L.O.L.


I'm not sure how old yours is, but the reason your diff lock might keep leaking could be the end outer cover for the diff lock, There was 2 types
the older one had a huge boss held in with a snap ring kind of deal. they didn't fit very well and the boss wears and flops around in the housing.
It means the cup seal doesn't snug up even to seal the peg inside. Usually the new style one you can replace the seals make, sure the end peg is
good and the diaphragm is good and they stop leaking.

Like I said I'm not doing this everyday now and start having to think about these old girls and fixing them, but if you get stuck again message me
through the system here. I'll try dig through the memories to help you. Regards Robert
 
(quoted from post at 08:07:30 04/10/18) Thanks Billy you got lucky some days I wish I'd forgot everything I know about them L.O.L I used to do a lot of fixing online, but got to the point
where I only pick certain things to reply to now. There are to many out there don't have a clue and shouldn't own tractors or tools looking for free
help. Or any time a Belarus is mentioned oh yeah they are just scrap, they aren't all bad as you know.

We sold the last of those new orange 572/825 tractors in about 96. The last pretty good Belarus where those orange ones, when they went red and
black things went south with real bad quality. A friend of mine from our dealer days that also came to Canada had a new MTZ 160 hp tractor it's gone
with less than 460 hours on, it was a complete disaster and the importers and dealers are hopeless now to .

We started our dealership in 93 in England, and ran it up until 2000 when we emigrated to Canada, I did a couple years for a dealer here,and taught
them a lot. I'm self employed and still fix a couple tractors for local guys that have them, but most of them in this area are gone now along with
the original dealer.

I'm farming more now than fixing, I got tired of everybody elses old machines of many colors looking for cheap fixes and the dealers didn't want to fix anyway because they needed to make money to. we still run
our last demo tractor from our U.K dealership it's a 920 (Canadian 5270) thats got 8000 "hard" hours and she's about worn out, and just gets used
for muck spreading and a few other jobs in the year. I upgraded to a 6400 Valtra annd wished I did it before. It's like comparing a donkey cart to a
fancy sports car L.O.L.


I'm not sure how old yours is, but the reason your diff lock might keep leaking could be the end outer cover for the diff lock, There was 2 types
the older one had a huge boss held in with a snap ring kind of deal. they didn't fit very well and the boss wears and flops around in the housing.
It means the cup seal doesn't snug up even to seal the peg inside. Usually the new style one you can replace the seals make, sure the end peg is
good and the diaphragm is good and they stop leaking.

Like I said I'm not doing this everyday now and start having to think about these old girls and fixing them, but if you get stuck again message me
through the system here. I'll try dig through the memories to help you. Regards Robert

Robert: Thanks for sharing that about the new red and black tractors. I didn't want to look a gift horse in the mouth but since you offered I am going to ask you to tap into your knowledge once again. I recently bought another 825 Belarus (why I don't know). It was total trash and I have spent a ton of money trying to get it right, even put a new engine in it (again I don't know why). The new engine was rated for about 100 hp with a turbo and I think 81 hp without the turbo. Mine does not have the turbo. The manual describes two different valve settings: On one page the manual says adjust the valves at no more than 0.012 inch (0.30mm). This is the setting that I have always used on the 572 and it runs about as smooth as a Belarus can. On another page the manual says to adjust the intake to .078 inch and the exhaust to .059 inches. This setting is what I have the 825 adjusted to and it seems to start running a little "choppy" when the engine warms up. I think maybe this setting is too tight. I don't know which to believe and frankly, I am starting to think the Belarus engine runs better with a little more valve gap. Can you enlighten me on this when you have time?

On another subject; How do you like living in Canada? I'll bet you had quite an adjustment getting used to those winters huh? It is probably worth it though if it means you can farm full time. That was always my dream as well but I was never able to do it until I retired.
Take care and thanks again; Billy
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top