Ford 600 Clutch Problems

crselsor

New User
I have a ford 640 tractor, sometimes it does not want to go into gear. With the clutch pedal depressed it still wants to grind. If I idle the tractor down to 450 RPM you can usually shift into gear and you are good to go. Also sometimes when you push the clutch pedal in the tractor does not want to stop unless you tap the left brake pedal. By tap I mean almost just put your foot on the pedal and the tractor stops. I actually split the tractor today to see what is wrong. I can not see anything obviously wrong. I was thinking it was the throw out bearing before I split the tractor but it seems to be in good shape and travels freely on the shaft. Could it be a problem with the pressure plate. The clutch pedal adjustment eye bolt on the side of the tractor was screwed all the way in so I had no adjustment left.
 
It probably is the pressure plate.

It can also be the disc not sliding freely on the input shaft due to rust or wear on the splines.

And a dragging pilot bearing can cause power to transfer even with the clutch disengaged.

I don't like taking short cuts in the clutch area. If anything can go wrong, it will. Go back with a quality clutch, new bearings, fix oil leaks, be sure everything is right.

Some installation tips, always use an alignment tool, tighten pressure plate bolts slowly and evenly so not to warp the cover or plate, get the engine hanging level so the stab will go smoothly. Letting the engine hang on the input shaft can damage the disc and cause dragging just as you described, and never force the final mate up with bolts!
 
I will order a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and the two springs that connect to the throw out bearing hub. I have a rear main oil leak as well that I'm going to try and address while I'm this far into it. I suspect it is the wedge seals. Do you have any tips for replacing these? This is all new territory for me.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:41 04/04/18) I will order a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and the two springs that connect to the throw out bearing hub. I have a rear main oil leak as well that I'm going to try and address while I'm this far into it. I suspect it is the wedge seals. Do you have any tips for replacing these? This is all new territory for me.

Yeah, don't use them. Get Victor Reinz RTV aluminum silicone. There are a number o threads about rear main seals on the Ford forums.
 
Here are a couple pictures. How much travel does the release bearing have on the shaft. With the clutch pedal fully depressed it only moves 3/4 of an inch and does not go all the way back. The picture is with the pedal not pressed in
a264082.jpg
 
The 3/4" travel sounds about right. As long as there is no wear in the shaft all should be OK.

You will need to readjust the free play once the new clutch is in.
 
look over real careful at what retains the clutch pedal shaft to fork. (roll pin, key/w clampbolt?] can.t recall--but ran into this once, t.o. bearing fork was flexing on shaft under pressure--broken/bent roll pin.
 

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