Trouble with new tractormeter.

Jack gray

New User
Any ideas. I put a new tractormeter and cable on my 1958 801 powermaster. At low rev. Meter almost pegs. When I idle up it do'es peg meter. Also needle is very jumpy although tractor runs very smooth. Meter I used is C3NN17360NAA WITH CABLE B9NN17365B thanks for any advice..
 
I would remove cable, [tach if necessary] to give the input drive a little twirl with my fingers--right direction of course, shouldn't go crazy with movement- if tach seems ok, check cable for kinks, tight circle from drive. I like to pull new cables out of housing & ck lube--some are too dry. lube sparingly close to tach.
 
Does sound like the cable is binding in the housing. You can disconnect the cable from the tach, start the engine, the cable should turn smooth and steady, no noise or jumping. The housing needs to be run as straight as possible, no sharp bends, away from heat sources.

On the back of the tachometer there is a round, usually brass, cylinder that the cable turns. The cylinder should turn with minimal effort and be perfectly smooth. If it is binding, the tach will jump as you describe. Also when the cable is inserted into the back of the tach, the cable housing should fit flush up to the back of the tach without force. If it does not fit flush, either the cable is not fully inserted (drive end or tach end), or the core is too long.
 
(quoted from post at 12:36:20 12/28/17) Does sound like the cable is binding in the housing. You can disconnect the cable from the tach, start the engine, the cable should turn smooth and steady, no noise or jumping. The housing needs to be run as straight as possible, no sharp bends, away from heat sources.

On the back of the tachometer there is a round, usually brass, cylinder that the cable turns. The cylinder should turn with minimal effort and be perfectly smooth. If it is binding, the tach will jump as you describe. Also when the cable is inserted into the back of the tach, the cable housing should fit flush up to the back of the tach without force. If it does not fit flush, either the cable is not fully inserted (drive end or tach end), or the core is too long.
kinda thought I have 2 problems. The other being tach meter almost pegged when idle and pegs out when idle up at all. When I get back home tomorrow I'm going to check out cable better. Thsnks
 
(quoted from post at 20:06:27 12/28/17) I had one like that, new out of the box. The tach was no good.
hat's what I'm thinking. If my cable checks out I'm gonna see about returning it. Thanks
 
I have tested tach's with an electric drill before. Drill RPM is listed on the ID tag. Hook it onto the tach and try it. The JD tach have a little brass part sticking out enough to lightly clamp the drill chuck on. If yours doesn't maybe use part of an old cable ? and then also try hooking it up with the new cable too.
 

I've seen new tach cables that were a bit too long for the housing...can cause all sorts of weird tachometer issues. Try loosening one end or the other of the cable and see if it works better. A dry or binding cable can cause issues too
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:15 12/30/17)
I've seen new tach cables that were a bit too long for the housing...can cause all sorts of weird tachometer issues. Try loosening one end or the other of the cable and see if it works better. A dry or binding cable can cause issues too
Thanks I will try that.
 
(quoted from post at 08:05:01 12/30/17)
(quoted from post at 08:00:15 12/30/17)
I've seen new tach cables that were a bit too long for the housing...can cause all sorts of weird tachometer issues. Try loosening one end or the other of the cable and see if it works better. A dry or binding cable can cause issues too
Thanks I will try that.
i got to mess with my tractor today. Took my cable back off and lubed it.Checked connections. Tach running smooth now but still reading high. At my lowest idle which is real slow tach reading 1500rpm still pegs meter when highest rev. Book says idle speed 450-475rpm. Tach has to be bad ? Thanks for all the advice! This forum is awesome!!
 

Does the engine side of the tach cable screw onto some sort of adapter?...Does it have the proper adapter if so?
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:47 01/01/18)
What did you lube it with? In cold climates you should use only graphite powder.
thanks. Yes I did use graphite powder. It is cold here now about 5 outside. Burrrrrr...
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:47 01/01/18)
What did you lube it with? In cold climates you should use only graphite powder.
yes I did use graphite powder. I now have a new tractormeter. It's also reading high.1500 at idle. Book said 450-475 at idle. I checked my fitment again and this is the right tach. I'm at a loss on what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas??
 

The proof meter part number that you give is for an NAA, (same as Jubilee). You need one for an 801. if your tractor has a four speed you need a cable with the number ending in 60N, If it is a five speed you want the one that ends in 60K.
 
(quoted from post at 16:09:35 01/04/18)
The proof meter part number that you give is for an NAA, (same as Jubilee). You need one for an 801. if your tractor has a four speed you need a cable with the number ending in 60N, If it is a five speed you want the one that ends in 60K.
hank you. .I will do that. The one I got 2 times now doing same thing, company shows it fits 801. The cable I have must be wrong also.Back to drawing board!! Lol.. Thank you so much!!.
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:46 01/04/18)
(quoted from post at 16:09:35 01/04/18)
The proof meter part number that you give is for an NAA, (same as Jubilee). You need one for an 801. if your tractor has a four speed you need a cable with the number ending in 60N, If it is a five speed you want the one that ends in 60K.
hank you. .I will do that. The one I got 2 times now doing same thing, company shows it fits 801. The cable I have must be wrong also.Back to drawing board!! Lol.. Thank you so much!!.
every thing I can find on search says tach I have C3NN17360N fits both 801 4 speed and Jubilee as well as many others. I'm lost!!
 

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