Indoor friendly ways to restore a manure spreader chassis?

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
Well, I have my old spreader stripped to bare metal.

Before I put new wooden sides and a floor on it; I want to do at least something to protect the metal frame.

Problem is, I've probably used all of the good weather here for doing hay and such; which means that I'll probably have to finish the frame in my garage.

Assuming that I can get all of the old rust and flaky stuff off, is there a low VOC compound that I could brush on the frame in my heated garage (attached to the house through a breezeway) that wouldn't make my entire home smell like a superfund gasoline spill site?

Anybody have any experience with something like that, that they would be willing to share as to whether it worked well or not?

Thanks
 
Ditto on the phosphoric rust inhibitors. Many brands are available, applies like paint and they worked well for me. Hardware stores sell small bottles, you may need several quarts or a gallon. The fumes are not too bad. You can always use the breezeway as an air lock and leave some windows open in the breezeway to get rid of any fumes before they can reach the house door.

Dumb question: The inhibitors I've used were all black, can they be tinted like some primer paints?
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:36 09/26/17) Ditto on the phosphoric rust inhibitors. Many brands are available, applies like paint and they worked well for me. Hardware stores sell small bottles, you may need several quarts or a gallon. The fumes are not too bad. You can always use the breezeway as an air lock and leave some windows open in the breezeway to get rid of any fumes before they can reach the house door.

Dumb question: The inhibitors I've used were all black, can they be tinted like some primer paints?

I have been using SEM Rust Mort which is clear. They also make a black product. You see a lot of concern here about the white residue which is left over acid which did not convert that appears a day after treatment. I take care of it by rinsing small parts in bucket after the prescribed working time, and I pressure wash larger ones , then wipe down with alcohol. I don't worry about the white residue myself but if I were using black I would be concerned about residue that I couldn't see. The clear product imparts no color to the rust fee metal while the rust turns black.
 
good evening lastcowboy, I use a product called P O R 15, it comes in pint, quart, and gallons. buff or clean as much of the rust off as you can, (I use a wire wheel on a 5" Makita grinder) small wire wheel on a die grinder for small areas, blow off with the air gun, wipe down with brake clean and apply por 15 with either a sponge brush or small roller. WARNING wear rubber gloves when using por 15!! if you get it on your skin it will be there for a long time!! it is the best rust killer/preventer I have ever used, but it's not cheap. after it drys just paint over and your good to go. john
 

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