Rusty cylinder lube tricks?

GM Guy

Member
Hey all,

Picked up a 2-155 White and it rolls over smoothly, until it gets to a rusty spot on one cylinder.

I am in the process of pulling the muffler and was wanting some advice of what I should be pouring down the exhaust to lube up the rusty cylinder?

I was thinking ATF and diesel fuel?

How long should I let it sit with the mixture in?

I am barring it over with a prybar with the starter removed so I can go both directions.

My thoughts were gently rock it back and forth hoping that a well lubed ring would scuff the rust off the cylinder wall.

Any input appreciated,
Thanks!
 
Forget the pouring oil down the exhaust, that’s a good way to hydro lock it and bend or break something. Plus with a turbo on there it will make an epic mess when you try to start it.
Pull the injectors and use something like kroil or deep creep in the cylinders. Or if your really into experimenting you can try dilute phosphoric acid, it will eat the rust right up, but you must be careful not to leave it on the aluminum piston too long. I tried Diet Coke on a Kubota engine I had here that was stuck with water in one cylinder, let it sit serveral days then I blew that out and used kroil, I eventually got it turning, but I’m not sure which one helped the most.
 
Diesel?? If yes that is a hard one unless you can pull the injectors. Pouring any thing down the exhaust can/will hydro lock it and then you have to either pull the injectors or wait till the stuff seeps into the oil pan.

As for what to put in straight ATF no mix with any thing
 
OK, I got it!

She fired up today.

Used fully synthetic engine oil drained out of a newer low miled passenger car that just sees the pavement, no dirt roads.

A few cups of oil down the exhaust.

Block heater plugged in. (my hair brained thought was the block heater plugged in would expand the sleeve more than it would the piston, so might loosen tolerances slightly?)

Starter removed, carefully rolling over with a 3 foot prybar. powere-ade bottle cut in half with the end kocked out so the bar wouldnt mar up the starter hole.

Gently rolled it back and forth, got the rusty cylinder to free up so I could make a full revolution, then rolled it over 10 times to clear any oil, she did come up hard a few times, but I held gentle pressure on it and I could have swore I heard the oil drip past the rings into the pan, so I felt we were good.

Lubed up the starter and re-installed, hooked up batteries, and cranked over. she did stop while cranking, so IDK if it was the rust overpowering the starter, or if there was just enough oil it might have been trying to hydrolock when fuel was added by the injector, but if you let off the button, wait a little, then hit it again it rolled over nicely again.

It did that a few times, then finally spun easier and then fired up.

Lots of exhaust leaks, but few oil leaks. I have a bad fuel leak though.

But she is running!
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top