Lights not working question

mcrow4117 · Dec 1, 2017

Just finished the restoration on my H farmall. Wired everything up (was a barn find and goats had eaten all the wiring) according to a schematic I found. Using a light tester I have power through the light switch all the way to the lights but still not working. Also I have power on both sides of the amp gauge but it's not showing that it's charging. I have cleaned all the connections. Could this still be a ground problem? Or something else? Thanks for the help

Stephen Newell · Dec 1, 2017

Set your Ohm meter from one post of the bulb to the other. If the bulb is burned out it won't register. I've bought brand new bulbs that were bad before.

300jk · Dec 1, 2017

Still 6v ? Is it positive ground ? What does the ampmeter show
? Charge, discharge or nothing ? Could be bad connections or
not wired right. I am no electrical expert, but I had an h, and
my 300 Farmall converted over to 12v. Best thing I ever did.
There are a few experts on here that will point you in the
right direction.

mcrow4117 · Dec 1, 2017

(quoted from post at 19:05:58 12/01/17) Still 6v ? Is it positive ground ? What does the ampmeter show
? Charge, discharge or nothing ? Could be bad connections or
not wired right. I am no electrical expert, but I had an h, and
my 300 Farmall converted over to 12v. Best thing I ever did.
There are a few experts on here that will point you in the
right direction.

Yes it is 6 volt positive ground. I bought new lights The amp gauge shows nothing

showcrop · Dec 1, 2017

Probably a ground problem. It was common back then for vehicle lights to ground through the sheet metal. My Fords are that way. It isn't hard after forty years for that ground path to deteriorate.

rvirgil_KS · Dec 2, 2017

If you have power all the way to the lights and none of them work, I would suspect a ground problem.

Ground problems are usually caused by rust and corrosion, or a new coat of paint. On my tractors I run a wire from the ground side of the bulb inside of the light housing to a good ground and not depend on mounting bolt for the ground.

Ammeter should have charge wire from BAT terminal on regulator to one side and other side to battery connection at starter solenoid/switch. Power for lights/ignition switches (if distributor) should connect to generator side of ammeter.

Get your lights working, then with engine off turn lights on. Ammeter should show negative. If positive reverse ammeter connections.

Steve@Advance · Dec 2, 2017

The light problem is likely a ground issue.

Body components, fenders, hood, etc, cannot be trusted to ground through the mount bolts.

Best to go ahead and run a ground wire to each light. Terminate the ground wire directly to the light
socket, or inside the light case as close to the socket as possible. Ground the other end to a casting,
engine or transmission, under a bolt, cleaned to bare metal.

The amp gauge, could be wired wrong, defective (aftermarket) gauge, or too high amp rating. For a generator
system should be 30 amps or less. If higher, the gauge may not be sensitive enough to see a reading.
H Wiring

ss55 · Dec 2, 2017

Chassis grounds rely on good contact across dozens of connections with paint, gaskets, corrosion, grease, etc. between the mating parts. On trailers, lights can be made a little brighter and much more reliable by running a ground wire to each light fixture instead of relying on the chassis ground.

Lights not working question

mcrow4117

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Stephen Newell

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300jk

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mcrow4117

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showcrop

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rvirgil_KS

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Steve@Advance

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ss55

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