John Deere 60 clutch problem

I've been restoring a 1953 JD 60, but have run into a problem. I can't get the pulley clutch to work properly. Starting the tractor with clutch disengaged, the pulley rotates and can't be stopped to allow shifting into a gear. I assume that means the clutch is adjusted too tight. Trying again, but after backing off the three adjusting nuts just one-third of a turn, the pulley can then be stopped, but now the engaged clutch barely creeps the tractor along in any gear. I assume that means the clutch is slipping. If so, how can I find middle ground and make the clutch work correctly?
Thank you!

sounds like one of the clutch plates is not sliding maybe stuck in a worn spot on the splines. Minimum pull apart and clean I have also seen the friction material come off the plates and do what you are talking about.

Also, the adjustment/function of the clutch BRAKE is important.

If the clutch brake is worn away or adjusted too "loose", when you pull the clutch lever back the clutch will begin to engage.

Ck your manuals and see if the "60" has adjustable "Travel Limiter" bolts behind the clutch drum..??

I know that my later ones have them and ya get to them by removing a plug above and below the clutch drum..

Otherwise, you MUST have the clutch brake set correctly ( and NOT TOO Tight)..too tight and shifting is a problem..ya want to clutch drum to Completely release.

Once the clutch brake has stopped the drum, it should more or less not turn at all when in neutral..

I would catch it if I put a new brake pad on them..Dad liked them nearly worn out..( it shifted better..)..

Ok, thanks for ideas. I will check these things out. I had previously taken clutch apart, replaced facings, parts all looked quite good to me, but I'll take apart again. Also had put new pad on pulley brake. I should probably get a service manual. I just tried to put things back together as they'd come off. I didn't expect problems, since the clutch had worked pretty well before I started messing with it. I should have left well enough alone!

just had this problem on my 60. check that the drive gear on the end of the pulley has not moved . mine had moved about the width of a clutch disc and i had the same problem . need to find a good press and put it back in place. it's fairley easy to see where it should be.

. The clutch is worn,dry and dirty . The operator’s manual shows how to remove the clutch and replace broken or worn components.

I've now taken the clutch apart to look for any problems and one thing is the washer behind the bearing is sloppy with play. Is this normal?
Should the bearing be pressed in against the washer until there is no play? I'd noticed a rattle in the pulley which must have come from that.

My clutch is clean and all parts are in good shape. I've pretty much completely overhauled the 60 over a few years, and replaced all worn clutch
parts a year ago. This included facings, t-bolts, dogs, toggles, pins, and pilot bearing. I finished engine work last week, started tractor for first
time, and am puzzled with the problem of the pulley turning with the clutch disengaged. It doesn't seem to be a problem with the pulley brake--
the turning pulley feels solidly engaged. When I back off the three adjusting nuts enough for the pulley brake to stop the pulley from continuing
to turn when disengaged, then I can shift into any gear, but when I engage the clutch it results in a slow creep. This makes me think I've got a
problem in the pulley with the gaps between disks or something.
So, I took the clutch apart again, checked for mistakes I made, and am questioning 2 things. One thing is that there is play in the washer
behind the pilot bearing. I think that is the cause of the rattle I hear in the clutch, and I want to know if that roller bearing in its correct position
should be tight against that bearing washer, so there's no looseness around that washer?
The other thing is at the outer end of the crank, should the fixed clutch drive disk be pressed on until it is exactly flush with the end of the
crankshaft?
Thank you for any help with this.

You asked, "Should the fixed clutch drive disk be pressed on until it is exactly flush with the end of the crankshaft?"

No, the fixed disk must be a little proud in reference to the end of the crankshaft. If it is not proud it will not lock securely on the splines of the crankshaft.

I have never owned a 60, but have had several other two cylinder Deeres. The clutch on my 50, for instance, is very touchy on adjustment. If not adjusted properly, it will engage when the clutch lever is pulled all the way back. In other words - locked forward it is engaged, and also pull hard back it is engaged. Only a release in the center of the lever travel. Very dangerous!

With you replacing/cleaning everything, I would think it would have to be an adjustment issue.

It's been awhile since I've had one apart - is it possible to get the clutch fork out of position when replacing the pulley/clutch fork? I remember reaching in the fork opening and moving the pulley collar to get it into position for the fork, but I can't remember which tractor it was. That would surely foul things up, if it is even possible.

Thanks for all the clutch advice on my 1953 John Deere 60. It was all very helpful. I've solved that puzzle, but now have a different issue. I replaced the starter but the flywheel ring gear is in bad shape. I've seen discussion about replacing those, heating ring gear and such.
My problem right now is getting my flywheel off the crankshaft. It's a taper lock type, and has a 4 & 1/2 inch square nut on the outside. My difficulty is getting that nut off. I finally found a wrench with a 4&1/2" jaw, but that big nut is on tight, and putting a torch to it didn't help. I've been unable to use as much leverage as I could because I don't know the best way to completely and safely stop the crankshaft from any give.
What's the best way to keep the crank from turning? And also, is the nut right-hand thread?

. Try giving the ring gear a 1/4 turn so the starter pinion engages on fresh ring gear teeth .