4010 Hydraulic pump leak

Motodave · May 4, 2017

I recently had my 4010 clutch replaced. After I got it back, the hydraulic pump leaked. I already removed the wide front and looked for obvious things. It looks like the main shaft is just leaking from all around. I tried asking the mechanic, whom has been working on JD's for over 40 yrs, but he is off work with back pains. Does anyone know if, or how, the clutch work could have affected the pump? Linkages? Lines removed? Anything else? It could be a coincidence, but before I replace the pump, I was just wondering if anyone knew anything about these pumps. Thanks................ David

Steve@Advance · May 4, 2017

Can't you replace the seal instead of replacing the pump?

Motodave · May 4, 2017

I suppose. Once I take out the pump, I have all kinds of options. I'm asking this question to eliminate pump removal. If I go thru the work of taking the pump out, I will definitely replace it. I'd hate to replace the pump and then see a leak in the new one caused by other reasons.

tim s · May 4, 2017

No reason that the clutch change had any thing to do with it.could be the original pump, and it has turned a lot since 1960

Ragnarok · May 5, 2017

If the hydraulic pump is original...it would not have had a seal bleed line(small plastic pipe) that bleeds-off excess oil from the pumps shaft seals and dumps back into the transmission(right side behind battery box where brake valve has a small return pipe)

Some pumps were modified by drilling and tapping in a small elbow fitting for the bleed line...and replacement pumps came equipped for the bleed line.

The hydraulic pump shaft has two seals...the main pressure oil seal is a quad packing with a backup ring that's internal...the outer seal is a double lip seal mostly to keep dirt out of the inner seal.

Probably has some wear on the shaft and a shot quad packing seal. Just changing the outer seal likely won't fix the leak. Also if the pump has been overhauled it is possible that the outer seal is installed too far in and blocks the mentioned bleed line passage(if equipped)

Motodave · May 5, 2017

Thanks for the input. This is good information to know. Interesting you mention the pipe goes "right behind the battery box where the brake valve has a small return pipe" because the brakes also leak since I've got it back. Maybe if I explore this could lead to something. But this could also be a coincidence. I'm sure lines were removed in the brake area to split the Tractor.
I don't think the pump was ever replaced. Dad bought it in 76. It has 5600 hrs now. I think I'm just gonna take it out and probably explore the bleed off line option while searching for a new pump. Thanks for all the contributions!............. David

Ragnarok · May 6, 2017

(quoted from post at 17:26:21 05/05/17) Thanks for the input. This is good information to know. Interesting you mention the pipe goes "right behind the battery box where the brake valve has a small return pipe" because the brakes also leak since I've got it back. Maybe if I explore this could lead to something. But this could also be a coincidence. I'm sure lines were removed in the brake area to split the Tractor.
I don't think the pump was ever replaced. Dad bought it in 76. It has 5600 hrs now. I think I'm just gonna take it out and probably explore the bleed off line option while searching for a new pump. Thanks for all the contributions!............. David

The 'clutch split' is right at the back end of the engine...between the engine and clutch housing. The bleed lines return to the transmission housing which is behind the clutch housing. The only bleed line the tech may have removed would be the hydraulic pump bleed(if equipped).

Does the tractor have a plastic pipe/hose from the bottom of the pump that runs back along the right frame rail to behind the right battery box

JDEM · May 8, 2017

Pump is pretty expensive to just replace due to leaks. It is fully repairable when it comes to leakage. Not quite so when it comes to internal wear. Main shaft is on adjustable cup and cone bearings just like wheel bearings. You measure end-play and make sure it is shimmed right. Then stick in a seal kit. Only hard item them might be worn that can cause leakage is a possible wear groove in the shaft.

Cannot say I have kept up with the latest in aftermarket parts. When I was a Deere mechanic - there were no aftermarket parts for the pumps. Now I see there are complete new pumps.

Motodave · May 18, 2017

So I took off the pump. It was leaking around the fitting that comes out of the top. This is a low pressure fitting that connects to the oil cooler. I could have just replaced the o rings in this one fitting without removing the pump, but with 55 years of dust and grime built up in and around the pump. I would have never got it clean enough to reseal. Soooooo, I pulled it all the way out and took it to the Deere dealer to rebuild. $900 to $1500. My advice to anyone pulling one of these pumps is; Loosen the bolts slightly on the front mount where it connects to the engine first. It will allow the pump to lower, making it much easier to get the side fittings off of the pump for full removal. The job is really a piece of cake, just dirty as h*ll. Also the pump ,with mount, weighs about 100lbs. Awkward!

4010 Hydraulic pump leak

Motodave

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Steve@Advance

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tim s

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Ragnarok

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Ragnarok

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JDEM

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Motodave

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