Rebuilding a John Deere 60 starter

Hey guys, I've got a 1952 JD 60 I'm rebuilding. Ultimately I'm going to have to get the starter rebuilt because it was sitting underwater in the flywheel housing
for years. I've searched for parts online and the starter parts seem relatively cheap compared to having it rebuilt (up to $400). I've never done a starter
rebuild but I'm relatively mechanically inclined. Is this something I could handle on my own? Words of advice? Wisdom? What would I have to do? Thanks.

Check ad number 637946 for a rebuilt starter on this sight.
Photo ads. Parts. Page 2. Not my ad, just noticed it.

After sitting underwater for years, it is probably beyond rebuilding.

I would be afraid the water would have gotten into the windings and degraded the insulation.

You can take it apart, clean everything up, see what it does, but avoid buying any new parts until you see it run.

Or try to find a good used or rebuilt one. If there is a starter/generator shop near you they may have one or can piece one together.

I would avoid the new aftermarket.

Okay, good thoughts. Thanks.

Wow, it took me forever to find it....but THANKS! I'll definitely look into it!

I repaired the starter on a 620 last year that was full of water. You can buy new windings and armature.

Don't give up on it quite yet. Here's one I cleaned up and it worked. Put in new brushes and away she went.





Here it is after I cleaned it up. I did paint the band around the brushes and I think I put on a new switch if I remember right.

Okay thanks Tractorguy2. I'm just not sure if I can do it if I've never rebuilt one before. Any idea if there is a step by step method anywhere? Like youtube?

Okay, thank. So is there any secret to getting it apart? I wouldn't know how. And I assume just clean with a good cleaner (brake parts cleaner?) and put back
together in reverse order right?

Take pictures with the Cell phone as you disassemble. First, remove the band. Some snake oil on the cross bolt threads helps and you might need to work in out and in a few times to get it unscrewed. Be patient. If the paper gasket atrached to the band is shot you can replace it with regular 1/64th thick gasket paper. Straighten out the staple and pull it out so you can re-use it.

Then a 3/8" socket will take out the two long tie bolts that tie it together. Now you can pull out the armature along with the cast housing and drive gear. Take pictures. To get the armature out of the cast drive housing remove the one cross bolt to free the fork. The armature along with the bendix or drive gear can be pulled out. You'll figure it out, it's intimidating the a first timer but not rocket science.

Blow it out with compressed air but don't blow too hard on the fields because the insulation on the field windings might be fragile. Same way with the armature.

You tube is your friend too. Lots of teutorials there on how to clean up the commutator, cut the mica, judge the condition of the brushes etc. A set of brushes is around $5.00 at your local parts store. Avoid EBay. Electrical cleaner washes away most of the rust remnants after you have blown it out and turned the air in your shop brownish-red. Have a couple of cans of cleaner handy. Take pictures. When it's cleaned up and you are done watching the process on You Tube you are ready to lose your religion trying to get all four brushes back on the commutator as you push the armature, drive housing assembly back in, making sure you put a dab of grease in the end cap bearing but only a small dab. You will need to be inventive rigging up some way to hold three of the brushes away with wire or whatever. You can pull the fourth brush away with your finger. Again, take your time, you just might save yourself several hundred dollars.

After all this, if the starter does not work, you have gained an education for the next time. If the starter works but is draggy first check ALL grounds and connections. The battery box might not be grounded well enough anymore, I just went through that scenario with a B. You can bench test with a battery and jumper cables before it goes back in the tractor. Hang onto it so it doesn't torque around when it kicks in. When you get done let us know what happened. It might still be junk but who knows?