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Steering leak 1971 Ford 2000 - replace oil seals?

A

aschwerin

New User
I've had this tractor for a little while now, and I got around to checking the steering, and there was no fluid in the box. So I filled it up with 80w-90. In 2 days there was almost no fluid in the box, it all leaked down the sector arms.

Its got what I think is called power-assist...its got two hydraulic cylinders attached to the tie rods.

So I ordered some oil seals for the sector shafts. Took the arms off...and could not figure out how to remove the old seals. I took off the cover and adjusting screw assembly from the opposite side. I could tap the sector arms back and forth 1/2" or so, but they wouldn't come out.

So, is there some method I'm missing (the manual says they just pull out...not so...)

Or should I put the #00 grease in and save the oil seal parts for another decade....
 
I just replace the seals on mine last fall. Even if they leak the fluid only drops to the bottom of the shafts so you still have some oil in it. The hard part is getting the arms off the shaft. I got the lip seals from a local parts shop. There was a thick (about 1/2 inch) felt ring behind the arm. The shop's felts were barely 1/8 so I didn't take them. Supposed to fit 9N through 2/3000s but not even close. Got them from NH dealer but they were only 1/4 thick. I have some 1/4 inch felt and made two more and doubled them. Should have saved my money and made all four. The one from YT site also looked thin.

To get the seals out I used a small tipped nail set and light hammer. Punch a hole in the face of the metal ring and it will come right out. Since you took the covers off you will have to readjust the backlash in the gears. The manual tells you how.
 
The YT felt rings are 1/4"

So basically I break the oil rings in there, and they'll come right out!

(quoted from post at 19:12:50 02/10/17) I just replace the seals on mine last fall. Even if they leak the fluid only drops to the bottom of the shafts so you still have some oil in it. The hard part is getting the arms off the shaft. I got the lip seals from a local parts shop. There was a thick (about 1/2 inch) felt ring behind the arm. The shop's felts were barely 1/8 so I didn't take them. Supposed to fit 9N through 2/3000s but not even close. Got them from NH dealer but they were only 1/4 thick. I have some 1/4 inch felt and made two more and doubled them. Should have saved my money and made all four. The one from YT site also looked thin.

To get the seals out I used a small tipped nail set and light hammer. Punch a hole in the face of the metal ring and it will come right out. Since you took the covers off you will have to readjust the backlash in the gears. The manual tells you how.
Click to expand...
 
If you distort them a little bit and they let go. Use a flat tipped punch about 1/16 diameter. A pointed punch will just dent it and there's not much room. Punch straight in so you don't nick the shaft and it will pry right out.
 
Not familiar with that exact gear, but try turning the steering wheel as you pull on the shafts. Some need the gear aligned with the hole in the casting to come out.
 
I used a nail and a small hammer. They are quite soft, and it was easy work. Seems to be holding oil!

I'm not quite sure how the backlash thing works...But I turned the screws in until they got tight...where it didn't feel like the steering was binding or too loose...doesn't seem like I broke anything after 40 minutes of road grading.

I did try moving the steering around while pulling/knocking the sector arms...but couldn't get more than a half inch play. Prying out the old seals was easy anyhow.

Thanks for the help... the tractorbynet forum seem dead.
 
When adjusting the backlash, best to have the wheels off the ground, or adjust before putting the tie rods on.

The gears are designed to be tightest when dead ahead. Find the center by turning the wheel lock to lock, then count half the turns back. Turn the adjuster screws in until slight resistance is felt, then rock the wheel back and forth, feeling for the tight spot in the middle. You should be just barely able to feel the tight spot when correctly adjusted.

Might want to recheck the adjustment, getting it too tight puts a lot of internal strain on the gear box and the gears.
 
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