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Starter Rebuild

J

Johnnykick

Member
This starter off a Farmall 100 failed to crank. I disassembled the starter and hopefully you can see the photos (I seem to have trouble getting them to upload.) The armature looks good, no burn spots or pits. No movement in the bearings, brushes are worn, but still have some wear on them. The field coils are dirty and look awful (but not sure how clean they need to be). I did get some sparks from the exterior switch on my last attempt. It looks pretty simple...can believe that's the problem. ID: # 1565 (letters INH below I think). On the armature is the word stamped "REBUILT" and the numbers "818002." My email is [email protected] if you can't see the photos.
44911.jpg
44912.jpg
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44915.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 10:37:50 01/30/17) Don't see anything obviously wrong.

What was it doing?
Click to expand...
It always crank slow...see the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik3bHEtfg5Ehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ik3bHEtfg5E

Now it won't crank at all.
 
If that's got a switch on the side that sparks that's where I'd start, there pretty flimsy to start with. Switch lug has to make good contact with the copper lug on the side of starter too and contact through the side has to be tight and insulated from the starter housing. A new switch is easy to destroy when tightening the cable nut too, it's flimsy, delicate junk. Look your cables over good and shine the ends up. If a cable has a bump on it it's full of corrosion and junk. Put a drop of oil or a speck of grease on your bushings and a drop of oil down the bushing on the end of the drive and put it back together with a new switch and light her up. Switch on cost about 10 bucks.
 
It's difficult to see in the pictures, but one problem I see is poor grounding. The starter has to ground through the frame. Dirty and rusted mating surfaces equal a poor ground connection. Clean all mating surfaces-starter to frame, barrel and end cap etc. Check your armature and field windings with an ohm meter. Also check the brushes and holders with the ohm meter. This starter is pretty simple, so you should be able to locate the problem in short order. Good luck.
 
What can also happen is that the spring assemblies that hold the brushes tight against the armature can get stuck from corrosion. And then they are NOT tight against the armature any more.

Just give everything a good cleaning and take emery cloth to the armature copper to freshen it up, and any other contact surfaces. Does not look like you need new brushes from the picture. Make sure any connections are good and tight and not grounding out. If it was rebuilt, chances are the bushings are still good.
 
Hate to jump into the middle of this, but Professor Schwiebert is correct. Emery is a conductor and small bits and pieces left in the armature groves will short it out. Sand is not a conductor and therefore will not affect it. That's why sandpaper is used.
 
Why would you use sandpaper around anything that has bearings or bushings? Emery cloth is what many people use. After cleaning the armature you'll need to blow off any particles regardless with compressed air. Then wipe it down with CRC-Lectric cleaner or something similar. Sorry, but that is just nitpicking.
 
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