Farmall H magneto trouble

Chunkman128

New User
I just bought a new cap, tune kit (rotor, point and condenser) and plug wires. Put in everything but here's what I found. I'm getting no spark from the main wire what so
ever. I'm not 100% sure on what the issue is but there's nothing. As for the cap and rotor, its almost like the rotor is too big and the new or old cap won't fit on right.
I'm just wondering what the good people of the community have to say for help.
Thanks,
Greg

P.S. links to the parts are included.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/S67475_Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-Custom_18074.htm?gclid=CPPSi73B3tECFQExaQodVAIKRQ
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/47413DYC_Magneto-Distributor-Cap-H4-Magneto_15970.htm?gclid=CODjxujB3tECFQOqaQodi_YBdw
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/21A10R_Magneto-Tune-up-Kit-For-H4_15969.htm?gclid=CJuljfXB3tECFZy2wAodusIKhA
 
Even when the points are brand new out of the bag, also you know the gap for the points, got to be looking at it again, thought that might be it.
 
check the internal wire that runs from condenser to points , there cloth coated & tend to rub threw after years , also make sure the condenser clamp is snug , condenser wont work if its not grounded though that clamp. do you have spark directly out of coil cap? i have repaired lots of the H-4 mags. over the years & the two problems i mentioned are the most common.
 
also forgot to add , if them parts are made by the TISCO co. there junk out of the box. buy them anywhere but from them.
 
I will check the wire and no I have no spark from the coil cap, I noticed when I replaced the condenser that it was smaller than the original. Would that have anything to do with it?
 
might , never seen one that was smaller , that dont sound right , everyone ive ever bought fits in that hole pretty snug . better get another one & make sure its the same size as original. your IH dealer should have these parts on hand & there not that bad price wise
 
the fiber disks the threaded end goes threw can also crack and spark will arc , i think either that condenser is wrong or you got a short arcing spark , even with out any caps on you should get a spark from the lead terminal on top of coil
 
this has nothing to do with lack of spark but set the points @ .020 even though the book says .015 it will work better , learned that trick from an old timer that rebuilt mags. , all mine are set up that way & everyone i ever rebuilt for other people too
 
OK, I will look into it tomorrow, I will also upload pictures of the 2 different condensers.
Thanks for the help so far.
 
Yes even new points can get glazed over and need cleaned. The contacts need to be shinny not dull colored. After you install them. Clean the contacts by placing white paper between them and pull it out. If there is anything on the contacts. You will have a stain on the paper.
 
The kit you bought. The condenser needs the little adapter screwed on to the end to make it work. I have used a ton of those condensers and have never had a single problem.
 
No, the adapter should have came in the kit. It's about an inch long. Has internal threads on one end and external threads on the other end. It screws on to the condenser and makes it longer.
 
..............on that points gap: if larger is better, maybe you ought to look for real gains at 0.030 or maybe even 0.050! :twisted:
 
I had thought that the gap on a magneto should be per spec so that the field collapsed in time with the passing magnets, so do think I would set it at spec. The only time I change the gap is on the one cylinder Kohler to change the timing some, it is kettering ignition, so no magnets to be in time.
 
here is a photo of the adapter that screws on to the end of the condenser.

I have used hundreds of this style and never had a problem yet.
a149841.jpg

a149842.jpg

a149843.jpg
 
Ok, I called customer service, turns out the kit I received was an older kit and that part was missing. They are sending a new kit so hopefully that solves it. Thanks for the help.
 
point gap has nothing to do with the field , by changing point gap you will change the time by just a little and also give the mag. a little ( spit sec.) more time to build up more charge , if you gaped it .050 the points probably wouldnt even close . also the magnet is this case is the rotor , im not going to debate this, ive rebuilt more of these mags. then i could ever count , im passing info on that is time tested & works better if you want to use factory spec. no problem , if i said this is actully a robert bosch mag. ( which it is) IH just bought it & put there name on it, you probably tell me i was full of it too
 
This style is a very common condenser. There are several parts suppliers that sell this condenser.

I have accounts with NAPA, CARQUEST, and AI PRODUCTS. Points,condenser, and rotor from NAPA and Carquest cost me $69.00 with my discount. From AI the kit costs me $14.00. Condenser by itself from AI costs me $11.

I buy and sell at least 40 model H4 magnetos every year. I have never had a bad condenser from A&I yet. I also use there points and condensers in Fairbanks mags, Wico mags, IHC distributors and Ford 8n- 860 tractors. Never had a problem yet.
 
"point gap has nothing to do with the field , by changing point gap you will change the time by just a little and also give the mag. a little ( spit sec.) more time to build up more charge"

NOT sure what you are babbling about, but I think it's an accepted fact that the spark from a mag will be the "hottest" when the points "break" at the instant primary current is at it's highest level, due to the relative position/motion of the rotating element vs. the stationary element. (I worded it that way to include rotating magnet mags and stationary magnet mags.)

I'm quite sure the engineers at IH were aware of this when they specified the breaker point gap.

If you are intent on tweaking the point gap, why not tweak the (H4) position of the point cam with relation to the rotating magnet?
Page 49 and 50 deal with cam/rotor position
 
Hey its me again, here's an update.
Got the proper kit, new condenser was put in, still no spark.
Ordered a new coil, got it in along with the old core. (It was a pain) Now the issue is I still have no spark what so ever. The point is at .020, new wires, coil, and condenser. One thing I didn't do was put the plastic resistor covers that go on the side of the coil, I could't get it to fit with them on. Before I take it to the local mechanic to see if he can help me, I figured I would shout out to here.
Thanks,
Chunkman128
 

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