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mccormick aos6 distributor-wont start

L

larryhuard

New User
hello all. i am larry and just registered.i am seeking your opinions on the distributor of an aos6 that doesnt want to start lol. many topics on here but something still puzzles me.when cylinder one is on tdc-aligned with marks on pulley and rotor facing tower nb 1 in dizzy cap, my points are then not close to be open. to get the points open on top lobe of cam, then my rotor button have passed number one tower. my question is : does rotor- tower and points open be completely ''aligned''? hope it make sense as not matter what i try, points are not opening when rotor and tower are aligned.
thank you for your time guys. larry
 
Lary,Check the mechanical advance in your distributor ,the springs could be broken or stuck in advance position.
 
[thank you very much .when i look from above, when my points are open therefore allowing the coil to set the spark, my rotor button is then just passed number one tower on dizzy cap. do you think that points open have to match rotor in front of tower or could it be slightly out ? thanks for your time
 
Was it running before? Was anything changed, like the rotor or cap? Just about every thing available now is import aftermarket, anything is possible. If you have the original parts, be sure they match.

The rotor and cap terminals don't have to align perfectly, but they do have to be within "jumping" distance. Has the distributor been disassembled? All the centrifugal advance mechanism properly assembled?
 
Lary,The spark will happen just as soon as the points break open.If it is happening to soon the advance weights could be stuck in advance position. use a test light see the instant they break open,and that is when spark occurs.
 
Turn the distributor. Its out of time. Set to #1 TDC. Loosen the bolts that hold the dizzy, turn it until the points rubbing block is on top of the cam.
 
Setting timing so the points are fully open/on top of the cam lobe @ TDC will make the timing TOO early/advanced, as spark occurs at the instant the points "break", NOT when they are fully open.
 
To add to what Steve said, point GAP determines what the relationship between the tip of the rotor and the high-tension terminal for a given cylinder when spark occurs.

If you tweak the point gap "open" a little more, the points will "break" sooner which would (in your situation) make spark occur when the rotor hasn't advanced as far in relation to the terminal.
 
thank you guys for your time. regarding what your are saying, it seems that my dizzy is set correctly then. i think den pointed out ok as for the mecahnical advnace. i put the dizzy apart before but reinstalled it as per manual s instruction tdc number one etc. but as comparision witha car, when i twist the rotor button forward, it doesnt spring back. so i wil have a look to see wher those springs are gone lol.
thanks anyway all of you for your time. very much appreciated
larry
 
update on the problem. i decided to recheck everything as the tractor hasnt been running for a while. rechecked and tested condenser: ok tested coil: ok and tested dizzy with resistance on leads..and continuity. no 4 was not conducting at all.i will replace the coil to make sure i have plenty of fresh sparks and put all that together. it is puffing so means the engine is still operating correctly* larry*
 
hi guys . just an update on what i have done to get the tractor going.new coil and all wires tested for condictivity. the carby's plunger what stuck open due to a debris in the chanel therefore flooding. all that corrected and it started ok today. the main thing new is that it is running fine as long as the choke is 3/4 shut. mixture screw is set correctly so makes me thing of air intake somewhere. carby gaskets are redone...? would an air intake manifold leaking would do that ? did you encountered similar problems ? anyway thanks again for your help- larry
 
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