Install Sparkplugs dry or with anti seize?

Well in the 50 or so years I have messed with engine I have NEVER used anti seize on any spark plug. Be it a lawn mower or motorcycle or car or truck or tractor or chain saw or weed eaten or in other words never on any engine
 

Well, in my fifty-four years messing with engines (yes I am older than young fella Old) :D ,I never have either, but I think that perhaps in some cases I should, because even though it has never happened to me there are certain ones that tend to break rather than turn out. It would probably be a good idea to use a torque wrench if using Never Seize.
 
I've never used or needed it either, except we always use it on aircraft engines. I don't know why they would be any different than any other air cooled engine either?
 
I don't see where it would hurt to use it.

I normally don't on iron heads, but aluminum heads, especially the newer engines that go 100,000 miles, it could make the difference in a simple plug change or a galled thread/broken plug.

Some manufacturers, especially the 4.6 Fords, recommend high temp anti seize and a specific torque. If it's a known trouble area, look up the recommendations, could save a lot of frustration later!
 
If you DO choose to use it, use it SPARINGLY, as any that protrudes beyond the end of the threads will get blasted onto the porcelain insulator by combustion in the cylinder and short out the plug.

I can remember dealing with two vehicles brought to me that didn't run at all after a change of sparkplugs and several that mis-fired, all due to the overzealous use of ant-seize.
 
I use it on lpgas engines. More than once I've had to remove the head and have the plugs drilled out.
 
Been using it for the last 30 years and no problems and makes it easier to remove them. I put it on threads of plugs not on threads of head. That way extra will come out around head and plug not going into combustion chamber.
 
I use it on all spark plugs and glow plugs and pencil injectors in all engines I work on. I have a 1993 Chevy plow-truck with a 350 V8 that I wish somebody had used Never-Seize on. Spark plugs got so rusty, one had the porcelain in the center blow out. Truck obviously then ran on 7 cylinders and sounded like an air-compressor. The little bit of steel cage that once had the hex on it for a socket is near gone. I spent a few hours, off and on -with a big easy-out in the center of it and applying heat. So far it will not budge. I might just wind up pulling the head off and drilling out what is left of that stuck spark-plug from the inside. It really ticks me off since it is (or was) a great running engine.

I've used Never-Seize on spark-plugs for 50 years and never, ever, had a problem with doing so.
 
Bob nailed it . You could probably put in hundreds of spark plugs dry and never have a problem . If you use anti-seize and apply too much you have created the problem when the plugs foul. { for awhile when I was on an anti-seize kick I used too much and fouled plugs. So since dry never caused a problem and using it did I skip it. Great product anyway.
 
If you put the anti-seize on plug hole threads you will have problems but if you put it on plug threads you won't have that problem. With it on threads of plugs you won't force the anti-seize into engine.
 
"if you put it on plug threads you won't have that problem"

I beg to disagree with that statement! (Of course, you can't make anything "idiot proof" 'cause idiots are CLEVER!)

I finally found a post (with photos) I made back in 2010 about a newly-replaced engine that wouldn't start/run and they hauled the vehicle to my shop.

The photos of the sparkplugs as I REMOVED them are REAL!

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/StupidAnti3.jpg">
Old thread
 
Looks like who ever put the anti- seize on those plugs thought they had to saturate them in anti-seize. I only put a light film of anti-seize on plug threads. I have been using anti-seize for over 30 years and never had a plug look like that. You don't have to use it like its going out of style.
 
Using some sort of anti-seize on spark plugs is essential with aluminum heads; not so necessary with cast iron but not a bad idea.

The problem with anti-seize, as others have pointed out, is it can cause plug failure if too much is used. As long as a moderate amount is applied only to the threads, it shouldn't be a problem. But it's a sufficiently serious issue that a special non-metallic anti-seize is required for aircraft engines.
Aircraft spark plug antiseize
 
I would only use a dab on one side of the threads the heat from combustion draws the anti- seize down the thread and around to foul the tip. I used very sparingly. It is not needed.
 
I have used anti-seize on every gasoline powered thing I have in the last 30 years and have never seen that happen or had that happen. The only way I could see that happen is by using way to much anti-seize compound.
 
When you used heat, did you apply candle wax as it cooled? Never failed me yet. Sometimes needs more than one app.
 

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