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TO35 running rough and backfires

M

Macmouser

Member
Wife got us a 1955 TO35 for our urban farm. Said to of been overhauled.... Not! Oil from tar pits when I cleaned scrubber was like cement (black). Used about 3 hours and the throttle broke, so tractor sat for year. Finally new throttle, but now no start.

New almost everything from (4) sediment bowls (1 used but 3 bad to get to the one), plugs, wires, coil, dist cap, rotter, air scrubber, carbarator like new as completely rebuilt. Books, manuals etc.... Probably cheaper to go to grocery store.

Now starts but bang bang pop fart hish and moan, and the tractor does this also.
Coming to the end of my limited mind and as I am not a mechcanic I signed into this site for your experience, wisdom and HELP! Summer almost over and I would love to use tractor before I am, as I'm old, tired and obsessed with this hate love money eating relationship. Please help!
 
Well #1 your first mistake was parts before trouble shooting.
One that has sat for a year can have sticking valves which would cause a back fire etc.
Your points could also be the problem.
Trouble shooting 101 is
#1 check that you have a good blue white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap from the center wire on the cap and also at all 4 plug wires.
#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas for 3 minutes. It need to fill a pint jar in less then those 3 minutes.
#3 put about a tablespoon of ATF in each cylinder and spin it over then let it sit 24 hours before doing more.
Post back what you find
 
Double check your firing order.

Check for condensation inside the distributor cap, even if it's new it can condense water if it's been outside.

Check the side play in the distributor shaft. If worn the points can't be properly set.

Could have a stuck valve. Could be stuck open, or stuck closed and bent the push rod.
 
Thanks for you input... All I did, except the ATF.
Now I got it running (minutes) pretty good, but soon seems like lack of gas. And then peters out. To start, now if cold, needs choke. Hot starts without choke but sometimes part pull on choke and she runs smooth, but only a few minutes.
I understand a great importance is on air fuel mixture, could this be the issue now? Would lack of gas or extra gas be a cause of backfire? Have had flames shoot out of exhaust.
Sediment bowl finally no leak no air pocket. I'm using ethanol free gas from co-op. And when running smooth sounds like a happy tractor. Then not...
 
Lack if gas as in running way to lean will in fact cause a backfire at times. As I said pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas for 3 minute that will fill a pint jar in less then that time.
If choking it helps it stay running then take the down ward point main jet adjustment and open it up a little at ta time till it smooth out. If you can pull it all the way out and it still runs then your carb need to be rebuilt
 
Thanks Steve for input. Firing order is correct, new dry clean dist cap. Dist shaft good. Changed dist cap and wires with Ferguson parts.
No mechanic but I'm leaning on air fuel mix. I have tried many adjustment on carb from 0 to 1 turn on and on... As said she runs good short time now then gasps, chough, chokes, backfires then dies out...
Was noticing bubbling in sediment bowl earlier but this last bowl, seems to be the one as no leaks, no air lock, no bubbling.
 
Thanks Old, the jet does make a difference but seems to die before I can hone in. Also fuel from carb (completely rebuilt) runs from plug like a flowing river.
 
Bubbling in the sediment bowl can be from drawing vacuum in the tank if the cap is not vented. Try running with the cap loose. I recently bought a "vented" cap... It wasn't, had to drill a hole in the bottom flange of the cap.

Another cause for bubbling could be the fuel line is too close or in contact with the exhaust manifold. Preferably the line should be steel, not copper, and routed as far from the exhaust as possible and down hill all the way, no paper inline filter.
 
Earlier before the 4th seed bowl attached to steel fuel line not near exhaust had those problems - not now.
I just came in from setting all carb to 0 then on air fuel 1 turn and air 1 1/4 turns. Started first key turn and sounded awesome and ran no choke 1/8 throttle without sputter or back fire for about 3 or 4 minutes then cough sputter out cold....
 
Wow. I see the light! Playing with the jets on carb and slight turning of dist, a miracle.... Now run without backfire unless I pull throttle more than 1/2 down. Runs until I turn it off, still a bit rough. I need a different strap to hold distributor as it is loose and the hose clamp on there is not holding it well enough. It ran (until I turned off) over 15 min, a bit rough but tinkering was getting positive results. Almost no sputter cough choke or backfire. Thanks as I getting there with your help!
 
After turning the distributor by hand and tinkering with carb settings (jets) and putting in more gas, ran out. This old to35 starts right up and purrs. Ran 15 min smooth. Turn off, hard to start again. Wait couple minutes and awesome again.
Tried too drive but still needs fine tune air fuel I think. Jerky and slow. Better in high gear. No back fire. Sometimes smooth. Then stop start again and now rough. Off, and wait a few, then smooth and start instant. Throttle slow to respond. No choke needed.
This tractor is a year older than I am, but has aged me many a year! As I'm a graphic artist and by NO means mechanical any advice in the fine tune would be muchly appreciated.
 
I'm guessing you figured out the idle mix works backward on the MS carbs, turning it in richens it, turning out adds more air, leans it.

The main adjusts richer the further out it is turned. It's hard to guess just where it needs to be as the engine is not under load. I like to set it by having the engine at idle, then suddenly goose the throttle open. It should take throttle without hesitation. If it balks, it's too lean. A single puff of black smoke is desirable.

What's with the hose clamp on the distributor? Something broken? There should be a bolt through a pinch clamp, then a small bolt holding that to the block.
 
What's with the hose clamp on the distributor? Something broken?

Your right about the jets, now that it idles I able to make adjustments that make a difference and slight goes along way.

Looks like problem was a combination but as I accidentally turned the distributor too far and the tractor took on a new attitude, I believe it was primarily timing (looks like).

My wife found a photo of the bracket you mentioned on line, and now we are looking to get as this distributor is hosed clamped (poorly) to the frame under the distributor and the distributor turns even when the clamp is as tight as it goes.

Looks like yesterday tractor does not carry this clamp in the parts book. Any ideas here.

Made it around the property once. Halfway it stalled and took a bit to start. So it better but not the Massey it could and should be. And I know it won't handle a load yet.

Thanks.
 
"Looks like yesterday tractor does not carry this clamp in the parts book. Any ideas here."

There's a Harry Ferguson board below. Someone probably has a clamp bracket they could part with, common to a lot of the Continental engines.
 
Got to thinking, the points are grounded to the distributor housing. If The housing is loose, it may be loosing the ground to the engine block, therefore the backfiring and erratic running.
 
Thanks for all your input.
Finally found a part number for distributor house clamp. Original part #182912M91.
And none to be found new or used.......
If anyone can point me in a positive direction in locating one.... Please and thank you!!!
Went through- Yesterday's Tractor, Agco, Farmland, Brim Tractor, Kipter Tractor, and local auto and farm equipment businesses. Also online various areas, i.e. Craig List, Ebay, etc..
 
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