1190 haybine upper roller sprocket removal

can anyone give me any pointers? I've tried a gear puller and heat... is there a key im missing? I can't get this off! help please! thanks!
 
picture might help
a231201.jpg
 
I thought so too but can't figure out how it
comes out if it is and nothing shown on
schematics...I can't tell what it is
a231231.jpg
 
[
37617.jpg


The edge of where the arrow is the end of one part and the plate with the square cutouts behind it should come off at the same time. Still cant see just what that is maybe someone drove something under the key to tighten it up.

37618.jpg


Looks like it comes apart here at the point of the arrow There is a 5/16 X 5/16 square X 1 1/2" long key that is at a minimum part of the assembly and is what you see in the hole. There's a slot in the roller shaft that the key slides into so it should pull straight off.
 
the plate behind it is free, and I don't see
a spot for a woodruf key or anything except
at the top of the shaft but if it is its not
coming out...

I don't see a square hole where you were
pointing....
a231271.jpg
 
I was only pointing out what you already know the two parts including the plate with the square hole will come off at the same time.

I am looking at probably the same schematic you have. Because the parts list sequence shows a key (Woodruff Key) as a separate part you can buy 3 dollars and some. One thing is clear the Key was a separate part at one point. However With the new photographs it seems this configuration was later changed. May have been changed on a later production models or the part taken off another machine. With your new photos it appears the part your trying to get off has no separate key to remove and has incorporated the key into the part your trying to remove. you can confirm that by cleaning that slot of grease.

37640.jpg


There still in my opinion looks like there is some scrap material driven under the Key You may try to drive the part back on a little and see if you can remove what is trapped under it move it side to side and see if you can remove it.

It is more clear in the photo below that the key seems to be an integral part of the casting your trying to remove.
I see no reason why a gear puller would not remove it after you clear what is trapped under the Key. I have never had to remove one so this is my only my opinion based on the information you have given. Great photos by the way!
I hope this helps Byron

37645.jpg
 
thanks Byron! I'm trying to clear it,
whatever is on there isn't budging. we got
this in "working condition" only to find out
later the gears and chain to the upper
roller are not even there! I didn't know
anything about this before buying it so I'm
working with what I have and now know why
the price was such a steal :(

I'll try again tomorrow! thanks again
 
To me it looks like the shaft is beat to h3ll and is peaned over some. If the hub slides mostfof the way and stops dead at the end of the shaft, that's more than likely your problem. Best way is to get a GOOD file, and smooth the high spots off the shaft, and keep going until it comes apart.

I'm also assuming this is a Hesston? They liked to use tapered keys and no set screws to hold their sprockets on. to tighten them, you get the sprocket in position, and hit the tapered key to drive it tight. To loosen it, you hit the hub of the sprocket and drive it away from the head of the tapered key. Then you can use a pry bar to pull the key out and the sprocket should slide off.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I did a little digging, and realize it's a IH mower, not Hesston. I looked up the parts books on Messiks website http://www.messicks.com/cas/48556

and to me, it looks like a tapered shaft on the end of the roll, so it's going to be a fight to get it to pop loose. Best bet is to be able to get a wedge of some sort, like a pickle fork (ball joint fork if big enough), behind there and give it a few good hard whacks with a BFH. Tapers can seat themselves very, very tight so they can be stubborn. Sharp blows with a hammer are about the only way to shock them loose.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
thanks Donovan...I'm off to get my BFH and
fork to give it a try. it is all beat up,
was that way when I got it but your
explanation makes perfect sense, I'll give
that a try and report back. Thanks you so
much!
 
At this point, you may be better off just cutting it off and buy new. On the Messiks website that part was about $120.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Have a welder? Make a better stronger puller. Take a stout piece of pipe pretty close to the same OD of that hub, and about 6 inches long, and weld it all the way around it. Not sure how big of diameter that is, looks to be a couple of inches? For the puller rod, use a piece of 1" fine thread all thread. If you can't find fine thread, coarse thread will be ok. Slide something down inside that pipe like a thick washer or something that will prevent the threads inside of that shaft from getting screwed up. Take a 1" nut for whatever piece of all thread you come up with, fine or coarse thread,and weld in onto the end of that pipe. Cut that all thread off about a foot long and weld a nut on the end of it so you have something to turn it with. Thread the rod into the nut you welded onto/into the end of the pipe, and run it all the way in. It should force that hub off, if it doesn't, heat the hub some more. Oh, grease the threads on your "puller" so they turn easier and don't gall. That hub looks a bit rough, so you might have to replace it anyway. Then if you get it off, just grind the weld off.

Ross
 
(quoted from post at 20:24:23 07/08/16) Have a welder? Make a better stronger puller. Take a stout piece of pipe pretty close to the same OD of that hub, and about 6 inches long, and weld it all the way around it. Not sure how big of diameter that is, looks to be a couple of inches? For the puller rod, use a piece of 1" fine thread all thread. If you can't find fine thread, coarse thread will be ok. Slide something down inside that pipe like a thick washer or something that will prevent the threads inside of that shaft from getting screwed up. Take a 1" nut for whatever piece of all thread you come up with, fine or coarse thread,and weld in onto the end of that pipe. Cut that all thread off about a foot long and weld a nut on the end of it so you have something to turn it with. Thread the rod into the nut you welded onto/into the end of the pipe, and run it all the way in. It should force that hub off, if it doesn't, heat the hub some more. Oh, grease the threads on your "puller" so they turn easier and don't gall. That hub looks a bit rough, so you might have to replace it anyway. Then if you get it off, just grind the weld off.

Ross

And don't forget, once you have that puller as tight as you can get it to hit the end of it with your BFH.
 
well I FINALLY got it apart. had to cut it
off:(

anyway, many many hours and weeks later I'm
putting it back together. thank you all for
your help!

now does anyone know how to time this thing?
;)
 

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