4520 rear PTO leak

Methanol141b

New User
Anyone have any hints for replacing the rear PTO seal. I've removed the 6 bolts but the bearing quill will only come out about 1/4". I'm sure
there in a snap ring but how do I get to it. All my manuals only show how to replace the front PTO seal, not the rear.
 
I've never done one. Are you sure you can't remove the seal from the rear WITHOUT removing the quill using a sheet metal screw in a slidehammer?

If NOT, it looks to me like the whole PTO shaft has to be pulled to get to the snapring (17) that retains the bearing in the quill. 9 is a snapring, as well. NOT sure what all could fall apart up front, tho!

Hope somebody else can give you better news.

<img src = "http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/R131/R13111_________UN01JAN94.gif">
 
If it is the same as the seal on a 4650 you can do as Bob described. Looks to me like #8 is the seal. Screw a sheet metal screw into the side of the seal, drilling a little pilot hole first pull it out with slide hammer or vise grips if you don't have a slide hammer and pop the new seal in with an appropriate sized pipe. Clean up around it first. No need to drain the oil as the oil loss will be minimal if you are prepared to put the new seal in when you pull the old one out. I can't help you beyond that if you can't do it this way.
 
If it is the same as the seal on a 4650 you can do as Bob described. Looks to me like #8 is the seal. Screw a sheet metal screw into the side of the seal, drilling a little pilot hole first pull it out with slide hammer or vise grips if you don't have a slide hammer and pop the new seal in with an appropriate sized pipe. Clean up around it first. No need to drain the oil as the oil loss will be minimal if you are prepared to put the new seal in when you pull the old one out. I can't help you beyond that if you can't do it this way.
 
The JD 4520 is a PAIN to replace the rear seal. You have to remove the entire PTO shaft. Fixerupper and Bob the seal can not be seen from the outside as there is a flange on the PTO shaft that protects it from wrapping/breaking.

IRC you have to take the front quill apart first and then pull the entire assembly out the back. Then you can get to the snap rings to disassemble the back quill.

I will admit it has been decades since I worked on a JD 4520. These tractors where dogs compared to the 30 series that replaced them in just two years. Very few serious farmers used them after that. They became cheap as not many wanted them. Then they surged in value the last ten years or so as the collector fellow wanted them to finish a "set". If I had to use it for serious work I would not take a JD 4520 or 4620 as a gift.
 
"IRC you have to take the front quill apart first and then pull the entire assembly out the back. Then you can get to the snap rings to disassemble the back quill. "

Front quill already pulled. Do I remove the front snapping #9 so the entire shaft slides to the rear???

A lot of trouble for a 5 dollar seal.. :roll: [/quote]
 
A neighbor bought a new 4320 in 1970. He was so proud of it. He hired me to run it some but the first time i ran it in the field for him I killed it when I throttled back on an end row. It certainly did lack low end power.
 
(quoted from post at 11:10:06 07/31/16) "IRC you have to take the front quill apart first and then pull the entire assembly out the back. Then you can get to the snap rings to disassemble the back quill. "

Front quill already pulled. Do I remove the front snapping #9 so the entire shaft slides to the rear???

A lot of trouble for a 5 dollar seal.. :roll:
/quote]

Yes you do have to remove #9. IRC then the gear will stay in place and the shaft and rear quill will slide out the back.
 
(quoted from post at 17:28:34 07/31/16)
(quoted from post at 11:10:06 07/31/16) "IRC you have to take the front quill apart first and then pull the entire assembly out the back. Then you can get to the snap rings to disassemble the back quill. "

Front quill already pulled. Do I remove the front snapping #9 so the entire shaft slides to the rear???

A lot of trouble for a 5 dollar seal.. :roll:
/quote]

Yes you do have to remove #9. IRC then the gear will stay in place and the shaft and rear quill will slide out the back.

Worked like a champ, thanks everyone for the assistance. I do agree with you on the PAIN part.
 

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