Getting Access to the Brakes

Hey everyone :)

This is a continuation of these two threads:
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8020109#8020109
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=8031447#8031447

Long story short, I'm doing the brakes on my homebuilt tractor made by my Grandfather. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I have the determination to do/figure out what needs to be done to repair the brakes.

Anyway, I've got the wheel off as well as the rim, and now I'm looking at this:

MTtBnTC.jpg


With my limited understanding, I believe if I take this part off, I'll also be looking at a shaft that goes into the differential. Is this correct?

If anyone has advice for what I should do from this point to gain access to the inside of the brake drum, it would be much appreciated.

Thank you very much! :)
 
Take the 6 bolts out, that will either let you pull out the axle, or it serves as a cover that holds the axle in, then the axle will pull out.

That exposes the end of the spindle tube, with 2 large nuts that jamb together. There may be a tab washer locking nuts together, bend the tab to allow the nut to turn, then loosen the outer nut with a punch and hammer. The inner nut will then screw off. The brake drum/hub will now pull off of the spindle tube.

When going back together, the inner nut sets the bearing preload, the outer nut tightens tightly against it to lock it in place.
 
Is that some kind of external brake drum on the side of the housing, behind the truck brake drum? Or is it maybe a mechanical parking brake?
 
Thanks everyone :D

It was exactly as Steve described, with the addition that the bearings were not preloaded, as Bob said.

@GarryinNC - good eye! Yes, it is a mechanical parking brake.

Anyway, I've swapped out the brake cylinder, reassembled everything (including adding some liquid gasket to where the axle is bolted on) and...success! The drum spins smoothly and will stop when the brake is depressed.

The last thing I need to do is get the tire back on. It's kind of tricky because the hub is really tight in the rim. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

Ex78Eit.jpg


It would be great if anyone had any tips/tricks for getting the rim back on, but regardless I think this brake repair is going really good now. Once the tire is back on, all I'll have to do is repeat the entire process on the other side. :lol:
 
Just some friendly advise.
DO NOT USE CINDER BLOCKS FOR SAFTEY STANDS
You may think what you are working on is not all that heavy but you would be amazed at how easy these blocks crack and crumble.
Unless you are trying to compete for the Darwin award, get yourself some proper jack stands, they are not expensive.
We can't help you if you are in the morgue.
 
Remember, you still need to bleed the air out of the brake cylinders, that will be the last thing you do.

Can you get to the bleeders with the wheels on?
 
@Determined - Oh wow, I didn't realize how much of a bad idea cement blocks are! The job is done now, but if I ever need to block the tractor again, I'll get proper jack stands. Though if it makes anyone cringe less, I actually had a 1.5 ton jack on the tractor as well while doing this.

@Steve@Advance - Thanks for the reminder! Fortunately the bleeder valves are accessible with the tires on. I need the fenders off to access the bleeders, but they'll be off for a little while. I'm going to do some painting.

I've got both sides replaced now and they work! :D Tomorrow I'll see how well they're working and tinker with the shoe adjustments. I also need to top up the gear oil in the axle. I lost a fair bit when I removed the shaft from the first side. I didn't think to stuff a rag into the axle until I lost over a pint of oil.

Anyway, sunny days. :) The project has been surprisingly successful and straight forward. That's likely thanks to everyone who has given me advice and helped coach me through this. Thank you so much everyone!!
 

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