Ford 8n Gas Tank issue

landHo

Member
I was having problems my tractors behavior and while troubleshooting, noticed some crud(quite a bit) floating around in the glass fuel reserve.
I've decided that the tank is the culprit of my running issues but am unsure of the best way to tackle the job.
If there's anyone who's been through this and can advise, I'd be most appreciative.
 
Well first off the sediment bowl assembly on an 8N should have a 2 stage fuel valve. If you open it up 2 turns it should be working off the main which has a stand pipe in the tank to lessen the junk form getting to the sediment bowl so if your opening the valve all the way there is part of the problem. One thing you can do it pull the sediment bowl assembly out of the tank then rig up a drain pipe system so you can then flush the tank with gas. You simply run a hose form the gas tank to a 5 gal. bucket and pout gas in and catch it and strain it so as to remove the junk and do that til you get no more junk then strain it real good and use it. Or you can remove the tank it self and put in nuts and bolt etc and shake it to break up the junk then flush it out with a garden hose then dry it out
 
(quoted from post at 13:15:28 07/02/16) Well first off the sediment bowl assembly on an 8N should have a 2 stage fuel valve. If you open it up 2 turns it should be working off the main which has a stand pipe in the tank to lessen the junk form getting to the sediment bowl so if your opening the valve all the way there is part of the problem. One thing you can do it pull the sediment bowl assembly out of the tank then rig up a drain pipe system so you can then flush the tank with gas. You simply run a hose form the gas tank to a 5 gal. bucket and pout gas in and catch it and strain it so as to remove the junk and do that til you get no more junk then strain it real good and use it. Or you can remove the tank it self and put in nuts and bolt etc and shake it to break up the junk then flush it out with a garden hose then dry it out


I wasn't aware of that, thanks..hopefully I can just flush it out..
 
Everyone who deals with 60+ year old equipment has dealt with this! LOL

Just keep in mind, unless the tank has been replaced, good chance anything you do will result in a temporary fix, or start a leak.

Before investing a lot of time, or spending money having it cleaned or repaired, know a new aftermarket tank can be bought for $143.
 

My 8N had a very rusty tank when I bought it at auction - 10 years ago. I removed the screen just above the sediment bowl and installed an inline filter just ahead of the carb. You do not have to remove the shut off valve/sediment bowl assembly to remove the screen, only the glass bowl. You will need a new gasket. The first filter plugged in a couple weeks, next one lasted a month. I have not replaced the current filter for maybe 4 years.

With time the rust will settle to the botton of the tank a stay there. The stand pipe is then above the rust level in clear fuel. At some point I will replace the tank, it has been a good tractor for me.
 
All you really need to do is put a magnet on the bottom of you tank. Rust particles are magnetic and you can buy magnets a lot of places including Harbor Freight very reasonable.
 
(quoted from post at 18:43:20 07/06/16) All you really need to do is put a magnet on the bottom of you tank. Rust particles are magnetic and you can buy magnets a lot of places including Harbor Freight very reasonable.
Thanks for the unique response.
I actually got it running...not sure what worked, but I emptied/re-filled the tank, blew out the carb with my pc air blaster and shot some starter fluid in the needle hole and it started right up.
I'll use some magnets as a back-up...just in case....soon as this heat dome leaves, I am back on it.
Thanks for all the help guys!
 
Just be careful the tank isn't getting soft in spots. Mine leaked after cleaning where the tank halves joined. I won't use a leaking tank if it's over a hot engine. I paid about $100.00 for mine and glad I did.
 

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