AC Model C won't start anymore

My Dad purchased an older mid-40 (?) Allis Chalmers Model C. The last owner's dad had it garaged for several decades. He got it running just to sell it. Supposedly the seller put all new points, plugs, rotor, etc into it. I've looked at them and they all do look new. The generator doesn't work anymore, so he put a 12 volt battery (instead of 6 volt) on the tractor and ran a line from the positive post through a voltage reducer and then to the coil. The tractor ran fine; my dad liked it and bought it. The line to the voltage reducer (which is shoved into the positive post clamp) and the negative battery cable are always taken off when it is not running. Dad got it home and it sat for several weeks; now it won't start. It seemed to have lots of spark at all the plugs. I squirted WD-40 into the cylinders but it still would not start. Still thinking it was a fuel issue, I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the carb-taking care to 'lube' the float valve needle really good so it won't stick. Still nothing. Anyone got any ideas? Did the last owner screw something up for us by putting the voltage reducer on? Also is there anywhere online a person can download good manuals for free or reasonable purchase? Thanks. I'm lost for ideas now. :?

#1 check that you have a good blue/white spark at all 4 plug wires that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. You didn't by chance pull the plug wires off the cap did you because if you did you may have the firing order wrong
#2 pull the carb drain plug form the bottom of the carb and make sure you have a good steady flow if gas for at least 3 minutes. The flow should fill a pint jar in less then that time.
#3 with the air cleaner tube off hold your hand over the carb air intake and make sure you have a good suction there and that your hand gets gas on it. Have the ignition on when you do that so you can see if it will try to fire.
By the way lubing the float needle does help any thing and it could hurt you instead. Also WD40 is not very good for what you where doing it is made to displace moisture. That is what W D stands for water displacement

I never heard of greasing the float valve needle. Grease could plug the hole. What all did you remove in rebuilding the carburetor?

I only lubed the needle valve with motor oil. Not grease. I"ve always had luck with this on motorcycle carbs. Dip the needle valve in clean motor oil and put a couple drops in the hole it slides into and I've found it just helps keep from sticking a little more.

Okay, thanks for the inputs Old. I'll do these over the next several days and let you know. I pulled all the wires off the cap, but made sure to put the on correctly according to where they were and firing order. I did find it funny the cap had a different #1 marked than what it was hooked up as, but I tried both the original config (since it ran when we got it) and the config using the #1 on the rotor cap. Nothing for either one.

Understood on the WD-40; It was just what I had handy at the time and was wanting something that would ignite when I turned it over. Maybe gas would work better but I didn't have any way to get it into the cylinders. Ideas? And lubing the float needle with clean engine oil is something I've had luck with on motorcycles in the past. I never use grease or anything that will harm it. Maybe tractors would be different. Dunno.

I'll let you know how things go. Much appreciated.

Also regarding what I took apart in the carb; everything. All the needle valves, jets, float, etc. Stripped down to totally bare. All the fittings and inlets unscrewed etc. Soaked in carb cleaner for two days then cleaned, dried and reinstalled. I made sure that all the jet screws were clear and you could see through those tiny holes in the middle. The float appeared to be good. It floated in the carb cleaner. Since it had a bracket attached to it, it obviously pulled it down slightly, but I figured that was just the weight of the attachment bracket itself and I think the float is still fine.

Spray carb cleaner works well as a starting fluid I use that all the time. Asfor lubing the float needle the moment gas hits it the oil will be gone

Carb cleaner. I'll remember that. Thanks. Yeah, I also thought the oil would dissipate as soon as gas washed over it. I guess it's more of a 'feel good' thing. But not really worth doing it anymore so lesson learned.

By the way I have been around on and had a license to ride bikes for over 46 years now so yep been around many scooters and have 6 in the machine shed right now all vintage by the way the newest being a 1981

No problem there then. Motor oil would be gone before the bowl was full.

If it was running and you have not removed anything except the carburetor and have spark the timing should be fine as well as the firing order. You now need compression and fuel to make it run. Before getting into a bunch of taking apart I would place the palm of my hand over the carburetor while cranking the engine to check for vacuum. If I had vacuum I would mist starting fluid into the carburetor to see if it will run on the mist. This will tell you if your problem is in the carburetor or somewhere else.

Wow, that's awesome! Yeah, I miss my bikes. Had to sell them before moving to MO. I see you're in the LOZ area. I"m up around Sedalia.

Yep I'm down here at the Lake. I also have 4 1946 A/C Cs on the place. 2 run and two are parts machines.
I have had motorcycles on and off since I was 13 years old and had my first license for motorcycle at the age of 14. I have had many brands of bikes over the years and some that would go very fast and some shunt bikes. I cannot ride like I once did but still have a Yamaha XS650 plus a few others. My stepson also is a biker and I got him started at the age of 15

It's ALIVE!! I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I was able to get the C running! Ultimately, I'm sure it was not getting fuel. Kind of like it lost it's 'prime' over the long winter. The intake did have plenty of suction. After I did a LOT of fiddling with the fuel lines I pulled the bottom plug and let it run. The three minutes you suggested gave plenty of fuel, but I was concerned it wasn't coming out as much as it should. I also cleaned the oil bath air cleaner; it was full of water and oil that hadn't been changed in decades. Anyway, I was so happy I got it running I took it for a spin! Other than a good radiator flush and possible oil change, it's got a little slop in the steering; I'll have to look at adjusting that someday.

Two questions please. The C's serial number is C13506. How do we know for sure what year it is? I think it's a 1940 but not sure.

Also if you don't mind, keep your eyes open for a John Deere 420, 430, 40 or 330. Wide front end, preferably 1940 year model. Dad would really like one that year. He'd sell/trade his AC for it if he finds the right one. He's just always been more of a John Deere guy.

Thanks for all the inputs!

On the left side of this page is research and info then serial number then go tor A/C and then to the C area and see where that number fits into the list of serial numbers. You do need to do a little math to figure out where the number fits in the list of years

I did just look and NOPE not a 194o that year started with #1 and went to 112 and 112 was the first one for 1941.