801 diesel injector pump

801dieselsc

New User
I have a ford 801 diesel which will run strong and smooth for about 30-60 minutes, then engine speed becomes erratic (for < 1 minute), then dies. Then it will not start. I disconnect the return line from the IP and engine starts, then let it run for a few seconds (only). This will "fix" the problem until the next time (about 30-60 minutes run time). From forum, i surmise i have a stuck metering valve, or disintegrated governor ring, or both. I did not find coffee grounds plugging the return fitting, but do remember coffee ground particles at pump exits in the past. The questions; 1-what is wrong? 2-if metering valve; can i service the metering valve with the pump mounted (just removing the covering plate)? 3- if governor ring; can i replace the governor ring (on the work bench)/ or rebuild the pump without calibrating the pump? or access to other sophisticated tools? Will the pump (and engine) operate ok without the flex ring? (given that the newer style doesn't have one) or do i at least need a spacer to fill the thickness of the governor ring?
 
Sounds like the complete return system needs cleaned of the retainer ring bits, if it will run OK with the return line off. I test for the same thing by taking loose the two screw timing cover allowing fuel to leak out. Have even loaded otherwise dead tractors on the trailer doing that, to get them back to the shop for repair. Just finished a Case 580 pump for the same issue, ready to come off the test stand.
 
blocked return makes sense. I had replaced the bottom half of the return line- from pump to T fitting in the head. What i haven't done is clean out the top half, from T to tank. I am going to try blowing it out today. [before now i did not know the pump returns fuel to tank during normal operation.] Assuming the IP must return fuel freely back to the tank, what is the purpose of the return line T'd into the head at the half way point?
 
What is the oldest injection pump. You will work on. I have a customer that has an old Hercules. That he found in a barn. Thinks it is from 1942. I haven't been buy to look at it yet.Just trying to get an idea on getting it running.
 
Any 800 series Ford I am aware of has a Stanadyne/Roosamaster pump and the plastic weight-retainer ring would be my #1 suspect. Not the metering-valve. That being said, the metering-valve is easy to check. Take the pump cover off, put your finger on it, and see if it pivots back and forth freely.
 
Cleaning out the return line helped, and i learned something, thanks. I now have another problem, erratic rpm. Is there anything besides the governor, IP that will cause the engine to change rpm independent of the throttle? i.e. are there things to check before diving into a pump rebuild?
 
The first company to use a Roosamaster pump (like the Ford has) was Hercules in 1952, and that was on a Cletrac crawler.
 
If it is that old. I would guess it would be an inline pump.I will see the guy this weekend. Sometimes I wonder where this guy finds all the junk he hauls in.
 
Erratic speeds without moving the throttle means the ring is failing for sure. Last JD 4020 pump I repaired was lucky, had no control at all as the retainer had fallen down far enough the pins were out of the timing plate slots. Usually when the pins shear off from continued use they lock up the head and break the drive shaft...
 
I found the injectors return fuel and "T in" at the half way point of the return line. [I answered my own question.]
 
dieseltech, if i were to try and use the tractor without replacing the ring, could i be flirting with the problem you describe above? where the pump head locks down and breaks the pump's drive shaft?
 
Since I've been repairing pumps forty years I may not be the one to ask. I'd get it repaired ASAP, but that's because I've seen too many that tried to run them one minute too long. Had a neighbor that sold his IH 806 diesel, while loading it on the new owner's trailer it died. Retainer pin was off inside, locked the rotor against the cam ring, seized the head and broke the drive shaft. He made it right with the new owner, but any profit went out the window repairing the pump..
 
There isn't really any "rebuild" process for these rotary-distributor pumps. Just patch, repair, calibrate. It's likely all you need is $50 in parts so why take a chance? As I recall, unlike a Deere, Case, or Allis - the Ford-Roosamaster pumps do not even need the special 6 tooth Bristol wrench to take part. So the whole job can be done with no special tools.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top