JD 2 cyl Crankshaft

Marlettj

Member
This is probably a stupid question. Is it possible that an engine that was run with a large amount of gas in the oil and then sat for a number of years, that the shaft and bearings would have swelled and basically seized and stay that way? This tractor used to run great. We can barely turn it over with a breaker bar on the clutch end with the rods disconnected.
Thanks for any ideas.
 
Most likely with gas in the oil it did not lube well enough to keep it from seizing up.
What model is it ?
 
Well on those models there is a rubber packing that seals the oil pressure passage of the main case to the main bearing housings. Those packings can swell up restricting the oil flow and also causing the bearing to seize up.
There has been some really good discussions and pictures on the JD site on farther down the list of forums.
Either way the engine needs to come apart but these pictures will show you how to prevent it for the future.
 
These might be the pictures that Mike refers to. Ron, known as Bushhog Papa, gets credit for giving me the idea.
a230216.jpg

a230217.jpg
 
Yep that's it. When you pull the mains off for inspection and or replacing put that little lamp nipple in there to prevent the NEW washer from swelling shut ever again.
 
(quoted from post at 08:07:56 06/23/16) Yep that's it. When you pull the mains off for inspection and or replacing put that little lamp nipple in there to prevent the NEW washer from swelling shut ever again.
We pulled left side off, it looked good,reinstalled with nipple and new gaskets and packing. It is all very tight. And still turns over very, very hard No up and down play at all. I don't know if that is good or bad. Started to tear down the other side. Noticed bearing housing is different than picture in manual. It has 2 bolts Top and Bottom with nuts on them. Any idea what they are for? I see a serial break parts book. Thanks for your help. I just really want to get this thing loosened up.
 
It's been awhile, but I think you need about .006" oil clearance for the main journals. My book is at the shop, so confirm that number before you run with it.

The two bolts with lock nuts that you mentioned are for clutch fork adjustment, and they show up in the clutch linkage area of the parts manual. Parts key numbers 42 & 43. I happen to have a picture of that page, and here it is.
a230235.jpg

a230236.jpg

a230237.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:11:50 06/23/16) It's been awhile, but I think you need about .006" oil clearance for the main journals. My book is at the shop, so confirm that number before you run with it.

The two bolts with lock nuts that you mentioned are for clutch fork adjustment, and they show up in the clutch linkage area of the parts manual. Parts key numbers 42 & 43. I happen to have a picture of that page, and here it is.
a230235.jpg

a230236.jpg

a230237.jpg
Thanks, that makes sense.
We got the Right side bearing off and found the outside 1/2 of the bearing not lubed very good. Upon further inspection we found the oil line packing between the case and housing plugged.
Thanks again guys, this will not happen again.
 
Thanks to all that offered help. We found the right side oil line packing for the main bearing plugged shut.
 
When you refill it with fresh oil. It might help to put a couple of tablespoons of motor honey in the crank case. Motor honey will make the lubricant want to climb up rotating gears or turning crankshafts. Makes the oil less prone to slinging off from centrifugal forces.

Also remember to shut the gas cock on the gas tank off when your done using the tractor. That is probably how the tractor got so much fuel in it the last time (some one left the fuel supply turned on and the cylinders filled up with gasoline).

c162.jpg
 

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