is it possible to field repair a flapping tread?

dont laugh, ok go ahead, but serious....

if you have a flapping tread on one of your mains and its not so bad that its dangerous, is there a way to repair it (glue it) or something...so it doesnt get worse....until you can get new tires for it?
just askin.'
come on be nice when you answer! :oops:

thanks.
 
If you just need to go to the tire shop I think I would just drive slow. I've had the tread come completely off a tire and not go flat. Drove about 5 miles on the core.
 

sure, if it has a tube in it, break it down, drill as many holes as it would need, and put 3/8 carriage bolts through from the inside. You should use locking nuts, as you can't put adequate tension on them to hold.
 
Hard to say with out seeing it. I have a tire on my W Speed Patrol that has tread that has pulled away form the main part of the tire and has been that way for over a decade and it has yet to come off.
 
Use Cat track epoxy. Not cheap but works great. It is used on cat challengers that have torn loose a grouser in tough conditions
 
Bob, what brand on tire is it. I have done some constructive stuff to keep them going. Is h
it bias or radial? Come back.
 
I have used contact cement in that application. used it on a WD 45 allis that we farmed with. Spread it on both surfaces, kept it separated till it was tacky to the touch, put it together and rolled it around till the weight of the tractor held it together. Probably didn't need to add the weight, as it doesn't come apart when you do it that way. The repair was still holding when the rest of the tire fell apart around it. Did the same with a straw chopper belt on a 303 combine that was almost in two. Held till we scrapped it out, about six years.
 
(quoted from post at 06:22:38 05/29/16)
sure, if it has a tube in it, break it down, drill as many holes as it would need, and put 3/8 carriage bolts through from the inside. You should use locking nuts, as you can't put adequate tension on them to hold.

Showcrop is telling you right ...on our 37 JD mod A we backed over a 3" cedar stump and tore a 6" slash in the tire. We broke it down, drilled two sets of holes along the slash, and cut a piece of tin to cover the holes. Then we used contact cement on the tire and tin, bolted it down, let it dry, then cemented a piece of shag carpet over the tin to protect the tube. We let it all dry then mounted it and it was still holding about 4 years later when dad traded the tractor off...he pulled a drag-type four bottom moldboard and disk every year with no tire problems.
 

Oh, by the way, the original tube was a total loss, the replacement tube almost broke us!!!

"If that aint country I'll kiss your a*@ !

ET
 
(quoted from post at 14:10:53 06/04/16)
(quoted from post at 06:22:38 05/29/16)
sure, if it has a tube in it, break it down, drill as many holes as it would need, and put 3/8 carriage bolts through from the inside. You should use locking nuts, as you can't put adequate tension on them to hold.

Showcrop is telling you right ...on our 37 JD mod A we backed over a 3" cedar stump and tore a 6" slash in the tire. We broke it down, drilled two sets of holes along the slash, and cut a piece of tin to cover the holes. Then we used contact cement on the tire and tin, bolted it down, let it dry, then cemented a piece of shag carpet over the tin to protect the tube. We let it all dry then mounted it and it was still holding about 4 years later when dad traded the tractor off...he pulled a drag-type four bottom moldboard and disk every year with no tire problems.

I haven't done it myself, but I have seen at least two show up at pulling competitions, repaired with patches bolted to the inside. One has been back about five times
 

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