John Deere 50 Power Trol Pump Drive

After you remove the hydraulic pump, you'll see a small keeper pin on the right hand side in the flange area where the pump was mounted. The pin should have a groove around the end, and you may be able to get a small screwdriver in the groove and lift it out. Then you "should" be able to grasp the end of the exposed idler shaft and slide it out of the governor housing. Be advised that there are two spacer washers, one on each side of the idler gear, that can drop down into the bowels of the engine as you withdraw the idler shaft. You can catch them if you're careful. If your idler gear is gaulded to the idler shaft, you'll probably have to remove the governor housing and maybe even torch the gear to get things apart.
 
(quoted from post at 20:16:00 02/29/16) After you remove the hydraulic pump, you'll see a small keeper pin on the right hand side in the flange area where the pump was mounted. The pin should have a groove around the end, and you may be able to get a small screwdriver in the groove and lift it out. Then you "should" be able to grasp the end of the exposed idler shaft and slide it out of the governor housing. Be advised that there are two spacer washers, one on each side of the idler gear, that can drop down into the bowels of the engine as you withdraw the idler shaft. You can catch them if you're careful. If your idler gear is gaulded to the idler shaft, you'll probably have to remove the governor housing and maybe even torch the gear to get things apart.
Thank you for the quick response. We were able to figure it out. The bushings and shaft are shot. Gear is floppy on the shaft.
Thanks again.
 

There is an update to improve oiling of the idler shaft . Some operators select the pump on and never ever shut it off for hundreds of hours at a time. when the hydraulics are not being used.
 
It looks like a lack of lubrication wore it out. What is the update? I don't understand how having it run all the time would help? Thank you for your help.
 

Some operators always ran the hydraulic pump even when not using the hydraulics . This caused early failure of the pump .
The idler shaft is rifle drilled however only a few models had pressurized engine oil plumbed to the idler shaft for improved lubrication.
 
The "update" involves drilling and tapping a hole in the governor housing at the end of the idler shaft. You can install a "T" in the line that feeds the oil pressure gauge, and run one branch of the "T" over to your newly drilled/tapped hole in the housing. You'll notice that your idler shaft has an oil passage already machined into it. This will supply lubricant to the idler gear/shaft.

BuickDeere has previously mentioned the sin of leaving the oil pump continuously engaged. His comments make sense, but I have to say that our pumps have only been disengaged for start-ups on severely cold mornings. I guess that it boils down to the fact that if we start the tractor, we're gonna use the hydraulics.
 

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