OT: Filler for wood pores that will absorb oil finish

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
I'm guessing that a few people here dabble in woodworking as well as wrenching old tractors and implements.

I have some dead/spalted/wormy butternut wood that I harvested about ten years ago and air dried.

I've resawed and planed some of it, and I'm just starting to think about making some things with it.

Here is my specific issue: I like to use natural Linseed finishes (around here, there is a local brand called Tried & True). I really like working with finishes that are only about as toxic as cooking oil. This butternut is the first wood that I've worked with that would need some kind of filler to fill in the wormholes in some places. I'm thinking that I would like something dark to make the wormholes stand out.

So, is there a dark wood filler that I could put into these wormholes during sanding/finishing that would then absorb a linseed oil finish?

Thanks in advance and Happy New Year
 
(quoted from post at 00:20:35 01/06/16) plastic wood? may work or make your own with the fine dust from sanding mixed with glue.

Most glues will not allow stain or oil to penetrate so finishing would be ruff. I would stick with wood filler that was made to take stain.
Just my 2 cents
 
I use boiled linseed oil and variants myself and when I need a bit of filler I just use sanding dust and the finishing oil to make up some thick putty. Take a few days to dry but works for me.
 
Search "Paste Wood Filler"

In high school shop (the only place I ever did anything right) the shop teacher insisted on using paste wood filler on any project involving oak. If we followed his instructions, we'd end up with a finish as smooth as glass, and a grade to match. It amazed me, because we were all farm kids whose only prior woodwork experience involved a double bit axe.

Don't know if your finish will be compatible, but the spec sheets should tell you, or you could test it on a sample.
 
(quoted from post at 06:50:23 01/06/16) I use boiled linseed oil and variants myself and when I need a bit of filler I just use sanding dust and the finishing oil to make up some thick putty. Take a few days to dry but works for me.

I'd like to experiment with that idea. Maybe the thermal expansion/contraction over time will be similar to the wood around it; since it will also just be wood soaked with oil; albeit in a different ratio.
 
I have made by own putty using Elmer's wood glue and fine saw dust from sanding the project I'm working on. It will darken a little bit with the linseed oil or you can add some stain to the putty as you mix it and get the color you want. Works good for me.
 
You might use Famowood wood filler. It comes in a multitude of different colors including walnut. Another option would be to use a pastewood grain filler. http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=105 With a grain filler you can brush it on like paint and allow it to thicken and rub off the excess with a coarse cloth. Sherwin Williams also makes a good grain filler however it only comes in a natural color. They can tint it for you to make a walnut color. Allow the stuff to dry good and sand the wood again. The walnut color will stain the wood some so that would need to be sanded off if you want the natural color of the wood.
 
Find stock filler used on Walnut Gunstocks. Many producers. I have used Birchwood Casey's and with a tung oil finish the grain looked two inches deep when finished. Took the better part of six months to a year to completely finish, but with any oil finish, patience is a virtue. Don't hurry the drying process.
I have also used 400 grit paper & used the oil to create a "slurry" to fill in the pores, takes a while to completely dry, but many thin coats, striking it back to wood using a large rubber eraser as a backing for the paper, took six coats to completely fill the pores. Went to 600 grit 4 more coats for a semi gloss finish.
 
I think you're better off using a commercial wood paste that indicates it will take stain. They come on all colors, and are more suitable for large holes like worm holes. I'm getting ready to fill some small open knot holes on a walnut table I'm making and plan to use the Plastic Wood brand. Cheap and it works well. Lot's of responses here are addressing filling wood pores which is not what you are doing.

Plan on a couple of applications to get a good fill.
 
Would some fiberglass resin work?
Should nicely fill the worm holes and leave a dark clear appearance that should bring out the detail of the worm holes.
Strong and fairly easy to work with and sand.
Can also be tinted.
 
CAUTION! Some are speaking of wood putty or crack filler, I think what you want is PASTE Wood Filler to close the pores in open wood grain. Open grain woods are ash. oak. walnut, mahogany. Closed grain woods. Hickory, birch, to name a few do not need a filler
 
(quoted from post at 17:51:27 01/15/16) CAUTION! Some are speaking of wood putty or crack filler, I think what you want is PASTE Wood Filler to close the pores in open wood grain. Open grain woods are ash. oak. walnut, mahogany. Closed grain woods. Hickory, birch, to name a few do not need a filler
CAUTION!! He was describing worm holes in old wood, not wood pores, if they are 1/8" diameter wood filler will not fill holes that big.
 
I use the shavings or dust from the wood being used . Do not use modern
wood glue but make a thick paste from them . There are plent of formulas
to use. I have used this method for ove 35 yrs. in my cabinet shop . My
father taught me and his father taught him .
CAUTION you have missed the most inportant part here . MAKE SURE THE WORMS
ARE DEAD FIRST . I know how could they be alive now . Over the years I have
witnessed many projects using air dried wood and this method does not kill
any insects that may be in the wood . You would not be very happy if your
project turned to dust would you ?
Hand rubbed oil finish is the most natual and great finish available .
 

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