Good Carb Rebuild Instructions?

matonanjin

New User
So I have the carb off my (What I think is) 641 Ford. And I have it and the carb rebuild kit sitting on my wife's kitchen counter. You can well guess her enthusiasm about this.

Now what I need are some instructions on how to do it. Can anyone direct me to a good web page of instructions or a YT video on how to rebuild a carburetor?

I've done it before but that was on a 54 Chevy 6 cylinder in the 60's in high school! I don't think memory is going to serve.:oops: :?

I did a Google search without much success.
 
If you have a kit that is any good it will have the instruction sheet in it.
a210198.jpg
 
90 % of the rebuild job is to get all the passages squeaky clean Soak the carb in carb cleaner over night. Blow out all the passages with compressed air and make sure they are clear. Repeat the soaking if necessary. Don"t start putting it together until you are sure you have all those little passages clear. You may have to run some thin wire through them to get all the crud out.
 
(quoted from post at 15:57:37 01/01/16) 90 % of the rebuild job is to get all the passages squeaky clean Soak the carb in carb cleaner over night. Blow out all the passages with compressed air and make sure they are clear. Repeat the soaking if necessary. Don"t start putting it together until you are sure you have all those little passages clear. You may have to run some thin wire through them to get all the crud out.
1 Don't do it in the kitchen.
2 Use copper wire not steel wire to clean out passages
 
old, Jerry and Andy thank you for the responses and help.

(quoted from post at 14:19:09 01/01/16) If you have a kit that is any good it will have the instruction sheet in it.
Mine doesn't. That's what I get for buying it at Tractor Supply.:x

(quoted from post at 15:57:37 01/01/16) 90 % of the rebuild job is to get all the passages squeaky clean Soak the carb in carb cleaner over night. Blow out all the passages with compressed air and make sure they are clear. Repeat the soaking if necessary. Don"t start putting it together until you are sure you have all those little passages clear. You may have to run some thin wire through them to get all the crud out.
Point taken.
(quoted from post at 05:39:14 01/02/16) 1 Don't do it in the kitchen.
2 Use copper wire not steel wire to clean out passages

Other than for domestic tranquility :wink: , why not in the kitchen? It's the only place I have when it is freezing out.
 
Carburetor cleaner in a spray can is good only for washing the outside and getting the stain off your hands. A can with basket of carburetor cleaner at the very least for soaking. The carburetor was manufactured using high speed drill bits and taps. If you want it really clean you will use the proper drill bit with your fingers and chase the threads with the proper taps. Rinse and blowing out after cleaning is a must. I boil the carburetors in soap water before disassembly also. That loosens/softens the crud so the orifices don't break or strip.

008-vi.jpg
 
One other option, if you have an air compressor is to build a Soda Blaster and skip the carb cleaner and wire method to clean the carb inside and out. Just google DIY Baking Soda Blaster for the home made version. Please use the appropriate safety protection and don't try this at the kitchen table. :wink: :wink:
 
I buy my carb kits at O'Reilly's auto parts store. Your carb would take the kit #778-505A which is where that instruction sheet I posted came out of. Cost is around $20 The kit is a Walker Brand kit.
 
Domestic tranquility is one thing, flammable and unhealthy carburetor cleaners in a closed space is important.

I have a 1-60 number drill set and some carburetor holes are too small for a #1. Stranded copper wire can go in.
 
Knowing the reason you are tackling a rebuild would make helping you easier.
Was it flooding?
Might just need new needle and seat plus a gasket.

Running poor/ low on power, lean usually means things are plugged up and meticulous cleaning is mandatory.

Lots of things that just a kit will not fix;
-Warped flange/vacuum leak.
-Hole in float.
-Worn throttle shaft bushings.
-Severe corrosion damage.
-Damaged or bent jets, screws, metering rods etc

Beyond common sense and attention to detail all you really need the instructions for is float setting and reference to which parts that come in the kit belong in the carb you are working on. One kit often covers many similar models and will contain pieces you may or may not need.
A tiny piece of crud stuck somewhere causes 90% of the problems, finding it is the challenge.
 
(quoted from post at 10:02:11 01/02/16) I buy my carb kits at O'Reilly's auto parts store. Your carb would take the kit #778-505A which is where that instruction sheet I posted came out of. Cost is around $20 The kit is a Walker Brand kit.

Thanks for that, old. For $20 I am just going to get another carb kit and that way I will have instructions. I need to go there anyway for some unrelated stuff. Thanks again.

(quoted from post at 20:37:35 01/03/16) Knowing the reason you are tackling a rebuild would make helping you easier.

...

[b:1238b3bd91]Beyond common sense and attention to detail[/b:1238b3bd91] all you really need the instructions for is float setting and reference to which parts that come in the kit belong in the carb you are working on.

The reason I am tackling the rebuild is it just won't start. It wouldn't start this summer and I had good spark. Without a clue what I was doing I took the carb off, cleaned it up and put it back on and it fired right off and ran great. Now that it is freezing out it has decided not to participate in snow removal. When I go to start it there are a couple revolutions of it acting like it wants to start and then it just cranks with nothing. With the history this summer that leads me to believe carburation.

I need common sense and attention to detail!!! No one has told me that in this thread until now! I'm screwed! :oops: :x
 
You might check out link_disallowed. they have several
videos covering different tractor repairs on there site.
They also sell very good kits with more parts then the
kits sold through auto parts stores.
 
While your at the parts store buy a torch tip cleaner tool. That way you will have a bunch of small wires to poke out the passage ways because air and carb cleaner are only 2 or 3 things one needs to do when doing a carb. These carbs are simple and even a well trained monkey can do one.
 
Remove the plug at the bottom of the float bowl.
Do you get a good flow of fuel?
Rusty gooey junk?
Water?
Ice?
Nothing?

Being that it is trying to start and in the past when you cleaned things out you got it running it is a fair guess that everything else is in good enough condition to at least get it to run.

Knowing you have good fuel to the carburetor is step one.
Once this is confirmed then determining if a problem with the carb getting fuel into the engine can be addressed.

No disrespect intended with the comment about common sense and attention to detail, I was just trying to stress how important thoroughness is on a carburetor, If you follow this site for a while you will come across countless threads where somebody's equipment will not run and they swear half way to Sunday that they cleaned everything properly only to admit later that after they cleaned the carb for the third or fourth time suddenly it is working fine.
 
Yep small drill bits help and along with the number drill bits a torch tip drill set and a PIN VICE is something else to have . The carb cleaner i use is not what you normally find fro the normal person and NOT something you want to use in the house . (10 you never want your hands to touch it because it will eat anything in a carb . and if it eats anything there you will not believe how it reacts to skin. (2) the fumes from it would run you out of a home just by opening the bucket ,(3) if there is a open flame the chance of EXPANDING your shop size is likely. Then the next best piece of advice i can give on carb rebuild is to find and OLD FARt that has been doing it for Eon's and either LEARN from him or let him do it . Then when you put it back on it will work as it should the FIRST TIME .
 

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