stuck engine

bteny10

Member
I have read where A few men on here restore tractors that have been sitting for quite a number of years starting with engine stuck if you would like to share how you get the engine free let me know how
 
Well if it is a gas engine you pull the plugs out one at a time fill the cylinder with ATF put the plugs back in and let ti sit a week or 2. Then set a 12 volt battery in pull the plugs out and use short fast taps on the starter button. I have done that to a good many locked up tractors and most have freed up. But if they have sat and gotten water in the cylinders then nothing less then a rebuild is likely to free one up
 
I do similar to old. i'll usually mix some diesel and atf and fill cyls.

after setting i'll geerally try to spin it manually, if possible.
 

Another way to help the process is to jack up one rear after a few days of the oil in it working, and with it in second or third gear rock the wheel back and forth a few times. This gives you good leverage but not so much to break something. If it doesn't free up give it more time.
 
Mine was locked up. It was in a pole barn for 25-30 years and was stubborn. I didn't have the money for an engine kit so I pulled the head and poured ATF in each cylinder. Each day for a month when I came home from work I hit a 4x4 with a 32 oz. hammer two or three times on each piston and then covered again with plastic after which I poured more ATF in the cylinders where it leaked down. I finally pulled the starter and pried on the flywheel until it broke free. Patience is the key. Good luck.
 
Thing is,if you get it loose,there's a fair chance you'll still have to pull the pistons out of the cylinders. If the pistons are stuck,good chance the rings are stuck in the grooves and aren't going to expand.
 
THIS INFO: is from the ARCHIVES:
Thanks to GORD SD:
I used The ATF/Acetone mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.


"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt Average torque load to loosen nut:
No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kriol .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds
The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF
 
(quoted from post at 08:59:52 11/20/15) THIS INFO: is from the ARCHIVES:
Thanks to GORD SD:
I used The ATF/Acetone mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.


"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt Average torque load to loosen nut:
No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kriol .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds
The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF

Interesting to see that the much loved PB Blaster rates only slightly better than the WD-40 which despite not being sold as a serious "penetrating" oil, everyone loves to tell about how useless
it is.
 
If your tractor has wet sleeves you can remove the connecting rod bolts and drive out the sleeve and piston using a piece of 2x2 oak and a big hammer. Then use an acetylene torch to heat the sleeve to free the piston. Then order a sleeve kit and have the new pistons installed on the
old rods. Pull the crankshaft and have it measured for wear. A good time to renew the clutch disc.. I did this in 1975 on a Farmall A. Hal
a206207.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 11:28:41 11/20/15) If your tractor has wet sleeves you can remove the connecting rod bolts and drive out the sleeve and piston using a piece of 2x2 oak and a big hammer. Then use an acetylene torch to heat the sleeve to free the piston. Then order a sleeve kit and have the new pistons installed on the
old rods. Pull the crankshaft and have it measured for wear. A good time to renew the clutch disc.. I did this in 1975 on a Farmall A. Hal
a206207.jpg

Is that while lying under it? my arthritis would not allow it, LOL.
 
Also, a lot depends on why it's stuck. If it's just stuck from condensation in the cylinders, chances are it will free up with oil in the cylinders.

But, if it's been sitting with liquid water in the cylinders, like from a blown head gasket, or rain coming down the exhaust pipe... Well, probably not going to be a happy ending.
 
I would really like to see those "numbers" come out of a double-blind, repeatable, scientific study.

'Cuz I'm gonna call "BS" on the oft-repeated numbers that get posted with NO "bibliography"!

On one given machine, some fasteners can come loose easily with or without magic "loosen juice", and I don't think you can put a number on/quantify everything.
 
Me since I have had very good luck with it I'll stick to using ATF. Ya as far as a real test and real numbers next to impossible to do one since once you have added something you can not use it to test the next thing with
 
My "Witches Brew" consists of Auto Tranny Fluid, Brake Fluid, Diesel Fuel all mixed then fill the space and let it soak a few days. Im like Bob there below, I doubt any of us can provide any accurate scientific evidence of a method that's best lol

Still, if its stuck so bad pitting and corrosion is too bad you're looking at honing or boring anyway regardless what method you use to un stick it.

John T
 

I have a john Deere "A" that was stuck when I brought it home. I used the 50/50 mix of ATF and brake fluid. Poured a few ounces in each cylinder after taking the spark plugs out and then the magic began! I let natural forces work for me! After taking off the starter and flywheel cover - I put a high lift jack on the flywheel and lifted the tractor with that jack while lifting on the flywheel. The next day I moved the jack and set it on the opposite side of the flywheel and left it for another 24 hours or more. Patience is the thing you need here! After several days of setting the jack on the flywheel I noticed the whole wheel had changed position. With a couple more days of resetting that jack the engine finally gave way and became loose enough to turn by hand.! Patience is the key and letting natural forces work for you. The weight of the tractor on the jack and the flywheel is enough to do the job.
 

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