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Rear Rim Repair

H

Happyfeet

Member
Anyone care to share their experiences, tips and maybe even photos of rear rim repair? I have a Farmall M with inner tube showing thru a hole larger than a silver dollar around the valve stem. Thanks !
 
There are a number of ways to fix that. Me I weld a washer or 2 over the hole and then use truck bed liner spray to make sure it is well protected. Of you can put a patch in and drill a new hole for the stem of the tube. But again I would clean the rim real good and spray it with truck bed liner spray to keep it form rusting again. I have fixed a good many and some I was even told I could not fix so I fixed them any how
 
I would weld a piece of metal over the hole and bondo it from the outside. Then someplace where the rim is in good condition drill a new hole for the valve stem. The last one I did the wheels weren't rusted but I got sick of the valve stems on the inside side of the wheel and moved them to the outside where you could get to it.
 
I have fixed many With a 5/8th flat washer if they are not to bad . I use my die grinder to open up the hole so the washer will fit in and tack it in place and then heat and beat it into submission to fit the contour of the rim the weld it both sides and grind to finish . last one was on my 806 when we were putting the new radials on . The tire guy had never seen that done before and said if he had not seen it he would never believed it could be done and turn out so nice . .
 
There are as already described, two basic methods depending on the size. I would say that yours is on the edge of going either way. The most important thing is to first clean it up good so that you can identify where it is really thin and cut all of the thin metal out. If the thin part is small enough you can get away with welding in a washer. If it is larger than a large washer, you are better off to cut a rectangular hole and fill it in with new metal, and make your hole elsewhere. Now comes the difficult part, which is recreating the bends in the rim. Well you are in luck, because I have an answer. Well stocked hardware stores will have a rack of metal for projects. Well stocked racks will have two foot lengths of 1/4 round stock. This is great for patching these holes because it matches the bend.
 
Some times the hole is the size of a silver dollar and when you get to solid metal it is much larger. I have weld repaired several rims. I was doing this one at the factory and forgot my camera when I welded in the patch. It still shows how I went about it.
Dorf Rim Repair Pictures
 
here is a link to couple of repairs I did


http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=941303&highlight=rim

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1240704&highlight=rim
 
If you have a doner rim it is easy to cut a segment out and patch it in place. I don't like to move the stem hole on an M because it should be at the anti-rotate lug which fits into the slot in the wheel.
 
My doner rims are not new, either. Like the old saying "a little polish, a little paint, makes a girl what she ain't".
a202138.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 09:57:23 10/02/15) My doner rims are not new, either. Like the old saying "a little polish, a little paint, makes a girl what she ain't".
a202138.jpg
Click to expand...

Good example, Andy!
 
I like the way you lined the pitting up so the repair and the rim on the inside match :)

I cut the offending rusted metal out, got a piece of 14# and drilled a 5/8" hole in that, cut it to match the removed rusty metal, welded it in where the old stem hole was and it's good as new!
 
Here is a link to an earlier post to a rear rim that was rusted out badly at valve stem.
http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=941303&highlight=rim
 
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