Repainting the tinwork on a 2N

lastcowboy32 · Sep 8, 2015

We have an old 2N that is my wife's favorite tractor. It's simple and low to the ground. It's the only tractor that she feels safe on.

She also likes the blue of newer ford tractors.

The tinwork is in good shape on this tractor; so it doesn't need any patches, and there is just a little bit of surface rust.

My garage isn't a body shop, but is it reasonable to assume that I could clean up the rust, rough up the old paint and recoat with high quality Ford Blue in a spray can?

I can live with a finish that doesn't reflect like a mirror, cut I would at least like to keep rust bubbles from popping up for a few years anyway.

Any recommendations?

If there was any step that you would "outsource", what would it be? For instance, is sand blasting so much better at cleaning up before painting that I should just have somebody sandblast for me?

dr sportster · Sep 8, 2015

Sandblasting is a great way to clean parts for paint . Usually followed by a heavy restoration type primer.Even a high quality spray paint . as you are calling it will have limitations to how good of a finish .It will look like it was sprayed with a spray can because it was. If you have a compressor you may consider a cheap Harbor-freight gun . You sound like you have a nice surface. Sand and prime and try the spray can . If you don't like it you can always go to a body shop later and have them spray it in a booth.

lastcowboy32 · Sep 8, 2015

(quoted from post at 11:50:41 09/08/15) Sandblasting is a great way to clean parts for paint . Usually followed by a heavy restoration type primer.Even a high quality spray paint . as you are calling it will have limitations to how good of a finish .It will look like it was sprayed with a spray can because it was. If you have a compressor you may consider a cheap Harbor-freight gun . You sound like you have a nice surface. Sand and prime and try the spray can . If you don't like it you can always go to a body shop later and have them spray it in a booth.

Sounds like a reasonable plan. I dread the sanding; because, of course, the spots that do have surface rust are lovely places like inside of rolled edges and such.

Maybe I need to find some kind of flapper attachment for my drill.

CharlieNJ · Sep 8, 2015

try electrolysis, works great on paint and rust.
Untitled URL Link

showcrop · Sep 9, 2015

(quoted from post at 14:03:32 09/08/15)

(quoted from post at 11:50:41 09/08/15) Sandblasting is a great way to clean parts for paint . Usually followed by a heavy restoration type primer.Even a high quality spray paint . as you are calling it will have limitations to how good of a finish .It will look like it was sprayed with a spray can because it was. If you have a compressor you may consider a cheap Harbor-freight gun . You sound like you have a nice surface. Sand and prime and try the spray can . If you don't like it you can always go to a body shop later and have them spray it in a booth.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a reasonable plan. I dread the sanding; because, of course, the spots that do have surface rust are lovely places like inside of rolled edges and such.

Flap wheels work great for rust removal. Don't forget to acid wash if you don't want rust to return.

Maybe I need to find some kind of flapper attachment for my drill.

showcrop · Sep 9, 2015

(quoted from post at 14:03:32 09/08/15)

(quoted from post at 11:50:41 09/08/15) Sandblasting is a great way to clean parts for paint . Usually followed by a heavy restoration type primer.Even a high quality spray paint . as you are calling it will have limitations to how good of a finish .It will look like it was sprayed with a spray can because it was. If you have a compressor you may consider a cheap Harbor-freight gun . You sound like you have a nice surface. Sand and prime and try the spray can . If you don't like it you can always go to a body shop later and have them spray it in a booth.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a reasonable plan. I dread the sanding; because, of course, the spots that do have surface rust are lovely places like inside of rolled edges and such.

Maybe I need to find some kind of flapper attachment for my drill.

Flap wheels work very well for rust removal. Don't skip the acid wash if you want to prevent rust under the paint.

souNdguy · Sep 9, 2015

sand the rust out.

pressure wash and degrease after knocking loose paint off the chassis.

paint the chassis by brush.. it will look great.

prime and paint the tin... personally I would not waste my time with rattle cans.. If nothing else get a 20$ spray gun from the cheap tool store and do a real spray on job.

lastcowboy32 · Sep 9, 2015

Flap wheels work very well for rust removal. Don't skip the acid wash if you want to prevent rust under the paint.[/quote]

Acid wash? What? Rub it down with some vinegar? (joking)

Is that something that can be done in a home shop?

lastcowboy32 · Sep 9, 2015

(quoted from post at 07:00:55 09/09/15) Flap wheels work very well for rust removal. Don't skip the acid wash if you want to prevent rust under the paint.

Acid wash? What? Rub it down with some vinegar? (joking)

Is that something that can be done in a home shop?[/quote]

Now that I think about it...we have "Milkstone Remover" (a strong acid wash compound) in our milkhouse at the barn. I'm wondering if I could take the sanded sheetmetal into the milkhouse and wash it down with a stronger-than-normal solution of this. The disposal is a little better as well; because the detergent used in the milkhouse is a base that is specially designed to cancel out the acid in the leech field.

lastcowboy32 · Sep 9, 2015

That electrolysis site was interesting. Maybe for small parts. I just so happen to have a battery charger and some extra rebar around.

showcrop · Sep 9, 2015

(quoted from post at 07:52:47 09/09/15)

(quoted from post at 07:00:55 09/09/15) Flap wheels work very well for rust removal. Don't skip the acid wash if you want to prevent rust under the paint.

Click to expand...

Acid wash? What? Rub it down with some vinegar? (joking)

Is that something that can be done in a home shop?

Now that I think about it...we have "Milkstone Remover" (a strong acid wash compound) in our milkhouse at the barn. I'm wondering if I could take the sanded sheetmetal into the milkhouse and wash it down with a stronger-than-normal solution of this. The disposal is a little better as well; because the detergent used in the milkhouse is a base that is specially designed to cancel out the acid in the leech field.[/quote]

Acid wash has to be phosphoric in order to convert residual rust to inert iron phosphate. Check the label or go on line and check the SDS, but milkstone remover is usually phosphoric acid. You want to rinse it well after to get rid of any residual.

Stephen Newell · Sep 9, 2015

If there is surface rust I would take it down to the metal and put an epoxy primer on it. By painting over the rust it will grow and spread under the paint and could rust through the metal before you realize there is a problem. If you could sandblast it that would be the best. If there is no real dents in it you could also take the finish off with an orbital sander.

Repainting the tinwork on a 2N

lastcowboy32

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dr sportster

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CharlieNJ

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