Ford 8600 need help

Was loading hay with my 8600 that I recently got. I then noticed that I was leaking fluid. Cut tractor off and checked fluids and I have lost motor oil. It looks to be leaking out of a little slot on the side of motor that appears to lead to fly wheel. I'm assuming it's a bad rear main?? I just would like to double check my theory. Thanks for any help
 
Could be the rear main.

Did anything else change? Like loss of oil pressure or bottom end noise? If the engine is getting tired,
the seal could be just a symptom. Replacing it would only be a temporary fix if there are other problems.

But then, sometimes they just leak. If all else checks out, a new seal should do the trick.

Other things to check, the oil level could be overfull. It can overfill from leaking injector or lift pump,
leaking engine mounted hydraulic pump, etc.
Also be sure the crankcase vent is clean and unobstructed.
Look carefully for oil coming from above, like valve cover, oil lines, rear of pan gasket, etc.
 

Not sure about the oil pressure loss the light isn't working. Didn't notice anything else wrong when it was leaking. Could be a chance that the engine has good amount of ware. It is kinda hard to start. Before I sink the money in it to repair the seal. (If that is the problem) what is the best way to see if it is worth replacing? Thanks again
 

I have a 9000. Changing the seal on one of those is not a tough job. The biggest negative to the 401 is the tendency to perforate the cylinder wall due to cavitation. Have you kept up with SCAs? There is not much on them that costs much.
 
(quoted from post at 02:03:31 08/18/15)
SCAS???

SCAs are the components of antifreeze that protects your water jacket from corrosion. Modern antifreeze has it but it will dissipate and needs to be tested and replenished as needed. Go to a heavy truck dealer. They should have the treatment and the test strips. If the tractor spent its first twenty years on a farm with soft water it could have thin walls. You can also pick up an oil analysis kit while you are there, and pull a sample to get a report on what the motor looks like inside. The main thing though is that as I said earlier The split of those is not a big deal, 5-6 hours. So you are not out much to change the seal. The biggest problem that I have had is struggling for a half hour to push it apart, then finally seeing the one last bolt that holds the hood top to the steering wheel support.
 
Ok I will check into that. Is their anything else you recommend on doing while it is split apart. I will have to take it to a dealer for the split and I would only wanna split it once. I'm going to replace clutch also
 
(quoted from post at 05:06:24 08/18/15) Ok I will check into that. Is their anything else you recommend on doing while it is split apart. I will have to take it to a dealer for the split and I would only wanna split it once. I'm going to replace clutch also

Conventional wisdom is to replace the transmission input seal while in there. Does it have dual power? If so you will want to at least renew the seals while in there. Get an estimate before taking it to the dealer. At their shop rates and slow pace it may be more than you want to put into it. 3-4 K. As I said splitting one of those is not a big job.
 
Yes it has duel power. Will def get estimates. One last thing. Seems tractor is kinda hard to start. My neighbors 8600 is the same way. Is that just the nature of those bigger tractors? Seems like it has to crank a while to fire
 
Check the oil pressure with a known good gauge. The manual will tell the acceptable limits, check with the engine and oil fully up to operating temp.

If the main bearings are getting loose, there will be a loss of idle oil pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 06:02:19 08/18/15) Check the oil pressure with a known good gauge. The manual will tell the acceptable limits, check with the engine and oil fully up to operating temp.

i don't have a manual... Anyone have a idea what the oil pressure should be when warmed up?
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:30 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 06:02:19 08/18/15) Check the oil pressure with a known good gauge. The manual will tell the acceptable limits, check with the engine and oil fully up to operating temp.

i don't have a manual... Anyone have a idea what the oil pressure should be when warmed up?

Oil pressure should be around 50 at a high idle. Mine runs a little higher than normal because the bearings are slightly tighter than normal mine carries 40lb at idle when hot, and will go to seventy at higher RPMs. Manuals are for sale on eBay every day. It should fire up when cold in just 3-4 seconds down to forty five or so, just by setting the throttle at half. If it is starting hard set it at full, then push the excess fuel button on the side of the pump, then pull throttle back to 1/2 and crank it. When colder it will want ether. They came with ether injection in cold climates. Check the cambox oil in the pump. 7/16 on the side at the front. If murky pull the drain on the bottom below the level plug. refill through big 7/8 or so plug up on top front. If you get fuel change it more frequently. Be advised that your dealer does NOT WANT to work on this tractor, he will not come out and say so but he WILL show you. Many seals and bearings can be purchased elsewhere for 1/8 of CNH price.
 
Now if I have a rear main seal leaking badly I most likely won't have much oil pressure correct? And what fuel button are you talking about on the pump? And I keep a eye on the pump oil. Over time it does get merkey tho
 
(quoted from post at 12:34:58 08/18/15) Now if I have a rear main seal leaking badly I most likely won't have much oil pressure correct? And what fuel button are you talking about on the pump? And I keep a eye on the pump oil. Over time it does get merkey tho

Leaking seal has no effect on pressure unless all the oil leaks out.
The excess fuel button is at the center of the arm that the shut-off cable attaches to. It should have a rubber boot over it. How does it run once warmed up? Smoke?
 
(quoted from post at 12:34:58 08/18/15) Now if I have a rear main seal leaking badly I most likely won't have much oil pressure correct? And what fuel button are you talking about on the pump? And I keep a eye on the pump oil. Over time it does get merkey tho

Leaking seal has no effect on pressure unless all the oil leaks out.
The excess fuel button is at the center of the arm that the shut-off cable attaches to. It should have a rubber boot over it. How does it run once warmed up? Smoke?
 
(quoted from post at 15:29:27 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 12:34:58 08/18/15) Now if I have a rear main seal leaking badly I most likely won't have much oil pressure correct? And what fuel button are you talking about on the pump? And I keep a eye on the pump oil. Over time it does get merkey tho

well I went back today to just check everything. The oil level was perfect. The hydrolic level was way over full. Overfilling the hydrolic fluid would cause a leak thru the flywheel slot? Right, now that I payed more attention it is definitely hydrolic fluid leaking out. So is it possible I can just drain all the hydrolic fluid and fill to correct level and the transmission seal will be ok?

And back to my starting issue. Once tractor starts it runs great, has good power no visible smoke
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:50 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 15:29:27 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 12:34:58 08/18/15) Now if I have a rear main seal leaking badly I most likely won't have much oil pressure correct? And what fuel button are you talking about on the pump? And I keep a eye on the pump oil. Over time it does get merkey tho

well I went back today to just check everything. The oil level was perfect. The hydrolic level was way over full. Overfilling the hydrolic fluid would cause a leak thru the flywheel slot? Right, now that I payed more attention it is definitely hydrolic fluid leaking out. So is it possible I can just drain all the hydrolic fluid and fill to correct level and the transmission seal will be ok?
And back to my starting issue. Once tractor starts it runs great, has good power no visible smoke

Your transmission and hydraulic are in two separate cases. If you have transmission oil leaking out of the bell housing either your transmission input seal or your PTO shaft seal inside of the main drive shaft is leaking. Hydraulic fluid can't leak out there except in the event of a very rare sort of dual power problem. This brings us to the fact that there is a hole in the bottom of the bell housing, towards the front, that is supposed to have a loose cotter pin top dangling out of it. This is at the low point of the bell housing and is there so that fluids will leak out and not accumulate in that housing. The bell housing and transmission are all the same casting but the transmission is in a rear compartment. You are supposed to check hydraulic fluid with rams extended which means 3 point up. Describe a little better where the "slot" is. Trans input seal is replaced with front split. PTO shaft seal requires both front and back split, much bigger job 2 days.
 
It's a slot on the front of flywheel. It comes out faster at higher engine rpms. And yes that cottor pin in the housing was drinking oil out of it.
 
(quoted from post at 16:41:07 08/18/15) It's a slot on the front of flywheel. It comes out faster at higher engine rpms. And yes that cottor pin in the housing was drinking oil out of it.

You can't see the flywheel.
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:25 08/18/15) How do I post a video or a picture?

You have to have a few posts before picture and video posting privileges are granted. It is to discourage spammers. Go down to site comments and ask for permission I will vouch for you and they will enable you LOL.
 
26296.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 12:37:42 08/19/15)
26296.jpg

WOW!!!! will your 8600 pull anything? It is supposed to be a dry clutch. I didn't walk down to my shop to check but that sure looks like the port for checking timing marks on the flywheel. Given the appearance of the oil, I would say that it must be hydraulic oil, and that it is coming from the rear housing by way of a bad leak of the PTO shaft seal. As I said earlier that requires a double split.
 
Yea it's a very healthy leak. Haven't used tractor since I found leak, but while it's split gnna put a new clutch in. Lol
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:23 08/19/15) Yea it's a very healthy leak. Haven't used tractor since I found leak, but while it's split gnna put a new clutch in. Lol

Replace the rear main seal while you have it apart, it takes only a few minutes. I would suggest while you are at it put in new clutch shaft bushings too.
 

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