Chain lubrication for old chains

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
I recently used WD-40 on some chains on an auction find baler to loosen them up. While it did seem to penetrate and loosen them, it's not the best lubricant long term.

Someone here in the forums suggested ATF (automatic transmission fluid) as a lubricant. Thing is, applying that, or old motor oil, or anything similar, results in a bunch of oil being flung around and a puddle on the ground wherever you apply it. I tried to mitigate that by using about a roll of paper towels and holding a bunch of them under the sprocket where I was applying the oil (I used ATF, as suggested...seemed to work fine)

I recently bought a new chain for our haybine, and it came packaged in something about the consistency of corn head grease. It was thinner than typical grease, thicker than oil.

That got me to thinking.

If I used oil or ATF, could I apply it with a brush better than just dumping/squirting it on the chain?

After that, maybe putting on some gloves and rubbing the chain with cornhead grease (not running, obviously)...would that put on a layer of protection... or just be an attractant for dust/grit.

If I DID use corn head grease, would it be smart to clean the chain, say, once a year to remove the film so that the next application of lubricant can get to the moving parts (as opposed to being repelled by the corn head grease)....

Just wondering...maybe I'm WAY overthinking this.
 
stop by a motorcycle shop and get some chain lube for a motorcycle chain. its sticky and wont fling off. most auto parts stores should carry it too.
 

But, but....I'm a farmer. I never use the stuff that's supposed to be used... I always try to use what I have laying around.

Maybe this should be an exception to that rule.
 
After you have cleaned up a chain with the ATF you can use a heavy oil or grease or most farm and home places and auto parts store carry a chain lube grease which is made just for lubing up chains. Me I just save the old oil that I drain from tractor and cars and use that as a chain lube. I use the ATF to clean up and free up old sticking chians
 
Save your self a few $$ and buy chain lube form an auto parts store or farm and home place. The stuff you buy form a motorcycle place will be marked up a lot higher then the other places because it is made for the bikers LOL
 
If the chain will run I use old used motor oil. I dribble it on while running at the first run each year. My baler sets out year around without a cover and the chains never seem to rust more than when I started with this baler 20 years ago.
If the a roller chain is rusted to where it doesn't want to run with out jumping I take them off and drop them in a pail of used motor oil. After soak for a month or year I put it in a vise and make them work with a hammer using WD 40 or more used motor oil. I then put them in operation using old used motor oil on them before every use for a few times.
I hate spending money on the latest potion when what my Grandfather used still works. Being a Great Grandfather 21 times myself I probly won't change my ways anytime soon. :)^D
 

Taking chains off for lubrication would solve the puddle issue. I could apply lube to them while held over, or dunked in, one of the pans that I use for oil changes. No muss, no fuss.

If I had to clean one, seems that I would try a pan full of diesel fuel or kerosene, that would be a fairly decent solvent, wouldn't it?

I think that I recall one of the chains on a baler, though...perhaps the one between the plunger gearbox and knotter...is "timed", so taking it off would require some careful marking of sprockets at both ends.
 
Ya removing chains on a baler means you then have to take the time to re-time every thing and that can take a lot of time plus if you mess that up cost you big $$ due to broken parts. My NH271 was a fence line find and all the chains on it where sticking real bad but after some ATF and working it and then a good oiling it has been a good baler
 

I use ATF because that is what is in my oil cans. Always apply it while running and apply it to the inner side. As it goes around the sprocket it tends to be forced into the chain instead of flung off. Much less on the ground.
 
Nothing will lube as well or stay on the chain as long as chain saw, bar and chain oil.
It has a sticky additive that really prevents drip off/ sling off.
When we started using B&C oil on our combine chains, chain life doubled.
It is very gratifying to oil them in the morning, run all day in the heat and still see the chains shiny wet with oil at quitting time. After all, it is designed to stay on the bar and chain as it chews it's way through a tree !! Cheap too, $7 per gallon at TSC.

We had a 1 qt, long spout oil can to apply it.
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:17 07/30/15) Nothing will lube as well or stay on the chain as long as chain saw, bar and chain oil.
It has a sticky additive that really prevents drip off/ sling off.
When we started using B&C oil on our combine chains, chain life doubled.
It is very gratifying to oil them in the morning, run all day in the heat and still see the chains shiny wet with oil at quitting time. After all, it is designed to stay on the bar and chain as it chews it's way through a tree !! Cheap too, $7 per gallon at TSC.

We had a 1 qt, long spout oil can to apply it.

That does make sense.
 
Chain lube [ which is made to cling onto the chain and resist centrifigul force throwing it off.] Or mix up some STP with some ATF. The STP is the clinging agent. Apply with small brush.
 
:)^D If you make puddles oiling a chain I would advise not to wear a white shirt when eating a brat with mustard. :)^D
 

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