Allis G Starting + Running Problems- HELP!

rdm1301

New User
Hi all - I'm at my wit's end with this Allis G. Full disclosure that I'm not very experienced with tractor repairs, but I do have someone with me that, while not a mechanic, at least knows his way around these things.

[b:ea083e0290]Background[/b:ea083e0290]: Allis G with Marvel Schleber TSV-13 Carb. Most parts original although the carb was probably rebuilt in 2000 (and then again yesterday). Used for years to cultivate tobacco here in Southern Maryland until 2001 and then sat for probably 7-8 years unused.

[b:ea083e0290]Current problems[/b:ea083e0290]: I'm a vegetable gardner and my tobacco farmer friend has gifted with the tractor with the caution that it is having problems running. He told me a bad battery so I immediately replaced that. Tried to start it up last week and got nothing- engine would flood but nothing turning over. Took the G out of the barn and had my friend tow me behind his tractor. Using that method we would get it started for about 30 seconds and then it would die. Decided it was a carb problem

Purchased a rebuild kit from external link Parts - also a new sediment bowl assembly as that was leaking. Rebuilt the carb yesterday. Soaked in carb cleaner for 6 hours, used air on all of the passageways. Put it back together fine. Tried to start it up again and although the noises were different, still not luck.

Took the tractor back to the hill and toed it and this time we got it started. Here is a video of how it sounds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIedrMvgobo.

Took it back to the barn and we could get it started without towing for a few tries. Then nothing again.

[b:ea083e0290]What we think is the problem[/b:ea083e0290]: Could be wrong here of course, but seems like a air/fuel mixture problem. We need the chock pretty much all of the way open to start it. We definitely have fuel - the sediment bowl stays full and the carb keep flooding. We've played with the idle screw and messed around with the points a bit to try to get the timing right.

Not sure how to fix this at this point- don't want to throw another $100 at something that may not work, e.g. a new manifold. Pretty sure that carb is cleaned out good. We are getting sparks on all of the plugs (we checked). Battery is new.

So help! I'm ready to kick this thing to death, but I've already spent too much time trying to revive it. That we got it working yesterday for a bit makes me want to stay with it. I'll follow the thread and am happy to post pictures, take more videos. Thanks friends.
 
(quoted from post at 07:27:47 02/15/15) Your starter maybe drawing too much battery voltage, then your ignition has low voltage. When you pull start the tractor your battery voltage isn't dropping. Hal
Untitled URL Link

Thanks Hal - what's the solution there? New starter?
 
I'd say you still have a carb passage blocked if it only runs.
With the choke on. Pull starting results in faster spinning
engine than the starter which creates enough vacuum to run --
sort of. Also check for good carb to manifold seal. A
compression check wont hurt and can rule out partially stuck
valves.
 
Rebuild the carb again. Maybe twice. All of the sudden you will
get it and it will purr.

I've started redoing carbs using a whole can of starting fluid on
each one. Air is fine for a tire, but you need to put a WD-40
straw on the ether and blast every passage, jet, and corner.
Take it apart until it screams for mercy and then be meticulous.
 
The carb flooding says there's still a problem inside (float sticking down, junk in the float valve, float level set too high, etc.) Recommend going into the carb again and doing a THOROUGH clean/blowout of the insides. Be sure to check (clear with a fine wire) the fixed main metering orifice at the bottom of the bowl and the idle circuit ports by the throttle plate.

Also check (and replace if necessary) the carb-to- manifold and manifold-to-block gaskets. Any leak in these is gonna give problems.

Finally if there was any "old" gas still in the tank, dump it and replace with fresh. And if the spark plugs are old ones, replace 'em with new. (Even though the plugs show spark outside the engine they may not when under compression in the engine.)

----

I helped a buddy with similar problems with his G recently (it had sat unstarted for 7 or 8 years). Once we got gummed up carb straightened out and a leaky manifold gasket replaced, it started/ran like a fine clock.

The G's a handy little tractor for cultivating veggies, etc - well worth the effort to get it running!
 
I had trouble starting mine once. Sometimes it would sputter and try to start, sometimes nothing. I had replaced the points and condenser, then it seemed like the valves were either leaking or out of time. After valve grind and checked timing it seemed to want to start, till I burned up the starter. I finally put the OLD condenser back in and it's been good ever since. Check the little things, too.
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:39 02/15/15) The carb flooding says there's still a problem inside (float sticking down, junk in the float valve, float level set too high, etc.) Recommend going into the carb again and doing a THOROUGH clean/blowout of the insides. Be sure to check (clear with a fine wire) the fixed main metering orifice at the bottom of the bowl and the idle circuit ports by the throttle plate.

----

Here is a picture of the float valve with the carb apart - any advice on the setting?

Also - I'm noticing the float needle tends to stick. It is brand new - any advice on that?

carb_1.jpg


carb_2.jpg


carb_3_1.jpg


Finally - is this small square hole near the metering valve a flaw in the carb or intentional?

carb_4.jpg


Thanks for your help all
 
The float valve sticking is why your carb is flooding. It should
work smooth and when the float rises shut off the fuel flow to
the bowl. That may be most or all of your problem. Fix all you
know is wrong and them go from there.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:07 02/15/15) The float valve sticking is why your carb is flooding. It should
work smooth and when the float rises shut off the fuel flow to
the bowl. That may be most or all of your problem. Fix all you
know is wrong and them go from there.

Ideas on how to prevent it from sticking? Valve is brand new.
 
One thing to understand about an updraft carb, a
true flooding condition is indicated by fuel
continuing to run out the air horn anytime the
fuel valve is open. Also, when it did run, it
would have been blowing black smoke. Fuel
dripping after a failed choke assisted start is
normal.

You say the float is sticking... Do you mean it
sticks with the needle valve open? If so, there
is a mechanical binding somewhere or the float
drop is set too low. If it sticks closed, as in
the needle sticking inside the seat, you would
have a "no fuel" situation. Is there a little
wire bail that helps pull the needle open when
the float drops? Is there a ring cut in the
needle from too much pressure when adjusting the
float level? If so the needle will need to be
replaced.

Have you given the float the "shake test"? Hold
it by your ear and shake it, listen/feel for fuel
sloshing inside the float. If so it will need
replacing.

Another cause for flooding, and the most common,
is rust and trash coming down the fuel line,
getting under the needle, holding it open. If
that is happening the tank will need to be
cleaned or replaced, the sediment filter be in
place and clean, the fuel line removed, blown out
or replaced. One trick is to turn the fuel on
before connecting the line to the carb. Let it
flush, catch what comes out in a glass, take a
look at it, look for trash, water.

Those carbs have a drain plug in the bottom. If
you determine the carb is not flooding (no fuel
dripping just sitting with the fuel valve open),
remove the plug and catch the fuel in a glass.
The flow will start strong, then slow as the bowl
empties out. But it should continue to stream
out, not slow to a drip or stop. This is a test
of the fuel actually available to the carb. If
the flow stops or slows to a drip, check the fuel
coming from the tank, check for float set too
high. Again, look at the fuel caught in the glass
for contamination.

The carb may not even be the problem, check the
ignition, check the spark at the plug end of each
wire, make sure the points are set, the
distributor bushings are good, the timing is
correct. Also the compression may be low, check
for stuck valves, tight valve clearance.
 
If you have been polishing it, it is no longer brand new! I have never seen a new seat that needed polishing. When they first came out with the plastic tip I tossed several and put the and the old brass needle in the new seat. The last few needles with plastic tips I used have been fine.
 
(quoted from post at 07:16:39 02/16/15) If you have been polishing it, it is no longer brand new! I have never seen a new seat that needed polishing. When they first came out with the plastic tip I tossed several and put the and the old brass needle in the new seat. The last few needles with plastic tips I used have been fine.

Alright cleaned the carb and still no luck. Anyone know a mechanic in central or southern MD that can work on these things. Happy to pay good money - just haven't found anyone.
 
I put a 3 cylinder diesel in mine. End of problem. Never fails to start and runs great. Use it weekly most of the year taking care of half acre garden.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top