Cheer4Ever

New User
My MF to35 threw a rod some years ago. Rebuilt the engine and it threw another rod. Anybody had same problem and what was your solution? I figure the crankshaft is out of round or even possibly bent. Maybe?
 
So are you saying you put a new rod bearing in and did not have the crank shaft turned??? Any time a rod bearing goes bad you have to pull the crank shaft out and have it trued up or yes it will just throw that rod bearing out in short order
 
That's a tough lesson to learn, all that work and now you have to do it again and spend that money again.

If a reconditioned crank is available, take your's in and trade it out. If not, have it repaired. If a new one is available for a reasonable amount, get it. Replace all the main and rod bearings in the process at a minimum. If the engine was in that bad of shape to spin a bearing, you should be reconditioning everything, head, pistons, rings, cam bearings, etc, etc.

You're lucky, it wasn't worse. If it was knocking and it should have been, the crank was stressed and flexed. The crank should have been magnafluxed. If you put one back in service that was stressed it might have had small cracks and broken later. I've seen that happen.
 
I assumed that it threw a rod because of high RPM's. Prior to the first rod being thrown, the governor malfunctioned sending the engine into extreme high RPM's. I figured another rod and bearing would be all she needed.
 
Well, unfortunately, that was the weakest link. You have to remember, the crank was still stressed along with the rod and bearing. You might can get off without doing a total rebuild, but I wouldn't trust that crank again without it being magnafluxed and re-ground. I hope you get out relatively cheap on the repair. Just look closely at everything before closing it up. Good Luck!
 
And... Have the rod reconditioned too! And tear the rest of the engine down to get all the metal filings out of the oil galleys. Murphys law is always zero tolerance! LOL
 
Depending on how bad it is most cranks can be turned and be just fine. Or they can be welded up and then turned down and be fine. Also be sure you have the cam bearings replace and it is best to have the block dipped to get it clean and all the metal shavings out
 
Either way sounds like the crank needs to be replaced. Just out of curiosity was it the same rod bearing that failed?
 
You should be ok with a reman crank but remember the really cheap ones have skinny journals. They usually sell them for automotive as 10/20 or 10/30 which means the mains are turned under as well as the rods. New crank may be in order if it's a puller otherwise a reman crank would be a lot cheaper I would assume. Check the main that feeds the rod for damage as well. A copper colored main there would explain a lot. If you have any other questions post back. Also, and this is VERY important. If you don't want to do it all over recondition that rod. That hammering may have ruined some of the bearing crush. Check the back of the bearing and if it has spun you MUST recondition that rod or it will fail again. Gerard
 

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