Removal of exhaust

okgat

Member
Good day,
I have tried penetrating oil and striking the exhaust to remove it so I can replace with a new one.

Does anyone have a fairly straight forward way of removing the exhaust on a Ford 2910 without having to torch it off.

thanks.
 
Not sure if you're trying to get the exhaust pipe off the manifold or get the manifold off the head, but here goes...

Soaking everything with penetrating oil is a good start. The longer it soaks the better, days, even weeks with repeat treatments if possible.

The main object is to get the bolts, studs, or nuts loose without twisting them off. Go slow, think about what's happening, avoid brute force. Sometimes turning the bolt or nut slightly to the right can get things moving. Once it moves, begin rocking back and forth, the more movement, the looser it should get, and it will generally come out. You'll learn to feel the difference in moving and twisting. Hard to describe, but moving is good, twisting is bad! Also, using 6 point sockets will give a much better grip than 12 point, especially if the shoulders are rusted.

If there are nuts on studs, getting some heat on the nuts will almost always get them to turn. Even if you don't have an acetylene rig, a mapp gas or propane torch will help. Get the nut hot, preferably red hot, try not to get the bolt/stud hot, get on it quickly with a socket.

Getting bolts out, you don't want to heat the bolt. If possible get some heat on the surrounding area the bolt is threaded into, but be careful not to get it too hot, could cause serious damage to the head or gasket! Hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer or large drift punch can help shock it loose. Again, the rocking back and forth method can be helpful. If the head is trying to round off, hitting it squarely with a hammer or drift may swell the head slightly, giving a better fit in the socket. (Hint: A 14mm socket is slightly smaller than a 9/16!)

If the bolt(s) refuse to turn, or the head is completely rounded off, and it isn't twisted off, cut the head off with a grinder or drill the head off with a drill slightly larger then the body of the bolt. The manifold can then be removed. Then get some heat on the head around the bolt, try working it out with vice grips.

If any do twist off, they will need to be drilled out, a procedure to be undertaken with surgical care! Examine the end of the bolt carefully. You'll need to punch the end EXACTLY in the center. What appears to be center, really isn't! Remember, what you see is the end of the bolt with a thread protruding on one side, and the thread root on the other. Same with the threaded hole. It's that critical to get the punch centered before drilling.

Start with a drill about 1/2 the size of the bolt, preferably a new, high quality drill bit. Go slowly, correct the course of the drill if it tries to walk off center. It will need to be drilled as close to perfectly straight and centered as possible. Drill all the way through the bolt, be careful not to drill beyond the end of the bolt, and above all, do not let the drill walk off the side of the bolt! If this appears to be happening, STOP!!!!! If the drill damages the threaded hole, your problems are greatly multiplied!

Once the pilot hole is successfully drilled, using a drill tap chart, go with the recommended drill that would be used to drill a hole for the size bolt used. The object is to drill away the shank of the bolt and leave the threads in the hole. Then pull and pick as much of the remaining bolt thread out as possible, then carefully chase the thread with a tap. Be very careful using the tap! Break it off and the head comes off and goes to the machine shop!

NEVER! NEVER! NEVER! try to use an easy-out to remove a seized bolt! It WILL twist off, and cannot be drilled with a hand drill!

Hope this helps, remember ASAP (Always Say A Prayer!)
 
If you use heat, apply candle wax as it cools...flows between the threads and turns out easily. Give it some time to work. Never failed me yet.
 
If you are talking about getting the muffler off for replacement? then I would cut the pot off between the pot and sleeve with the hack saw.
Then i would use the angle grinder with a zip disc and make one or two cuts opposite (if possible)of each other length wise down trough the sleeve without slicing into the manifold pipe. That way you can remove the sleeve without hammering or possibly breaking the manifold
 
Thanks to everyone for advice on how best to
remove the exhaust.

My error. I should have said muffler. I am
able to remove the clamp from around the
exhaust tube where it connects to the vertical
inlet tube, but the muffler itself is stuck to
the vertical tube and I can't seem to find a
way to twist it off.

I have tried penetrating oil, heat, etc without
success. However, I again will try using
penetrating oil over a period of a week or so.
Any other suggestions would be much
appreciated.
thanks.

P.S. Sorry for not responding sooner.
 
(quoted from post at 22:05:59 01/26/15) Thanks to everyone for advice on how best to
remove the exhaust.

My error. I should have said muffler. I am
able to remove the clamp from around the
exhaust tube where it connects to the vertical
inlet tube, but the muffler itself is stuck to
the vertical tube and I can't seem to find a
way to twist it off.

I have tried penetrating oil, heat, etc without
success. However, I again will try using
penetrating oil over a period of a week or so.
Any other suggestions would be much
appreciated.
thanks.

P.S. Sorry for not responding sooner.
enetrating oil wont work,..you have gravity working against you,...BTDT
 
(quoted from post at 14:57:09 01/27/15) Zepreserve might do the trick for you. That is the best product I've ever seen to penetrate rusted parts and help free them.

Thank you.
 

I have used my 4.5 inch grinder to very carefully make a cut on each side to take the tension off. They build up a lot of tension due to rust growing in between.
 
(quoted from post at 07:00:55 01/28/15)
I have used my 4.5 inch grinder to very carefully make a cut on each side to take the tension off. They build up a lot of tension due to rust growing in between.
suggested that in a earlier post.
I guess we must be speaking spanish or some people prefer to do things the hard way :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 09:57:40 01/28/15)
(quoted from post at 07:00:55 01/28/15)
I have used my 4.5 inch grinder to very carefully make a cut on each side to take the tension off. They build up a lot of tension due to rust growing in between.
suggested that in a earlier post.
I guess we must be speaking spanish or some people prefer to do things the hard way :wink:

Yes,I know what you mean. I have never had any luck overcoming gravity, but I have had some awful struggles getting pipes apart. I thought that my neighbor was going to throw his hammer at me when I told him (tongue in cheek) that I remove my pipes every year just to be sure that I don't have to struggle with it when I need to get it off.
 
If scrapping the muffler anyway, cut with angle grinder as showcrop said. Can have it off in less time than it takes to read this thread.
 
Penetrating oil can only penetrate where there is a gap, usually created by twisting or impact. Cutting the old pipe is often the fastest way to do it. Die grinder, hacksaw, or use a special muffler cutter bit in an air hammer.
 

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