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Farmall 140 Carb. Question

R

RUN-N-LATE

Member
First I am new to the Forum, have been looking at sight for a while and really enjoy it. My question I have a Farmall 140 that I just bought and needs Carb. rebuilt and not sure I could do it myself, and was wondering is there someone on the sight, or know of someone who rebuilds them, any help would be thankful. Thanks Mark
 
Don't be afraid of the carb. They are simple, intended to be field serviceable. Get a can of spray carb cleaner, ease it open and take a look.

Hint: When removing the main and idle adjustment screws, turn them in, count the number of turns until they just seat. Then when you put it back together, do the same, count the turns to get them back to where they were.

Most times you can get them open without tearing the gasket. Unless there is something worn or broken, you won't even need a kit.

BTW, it's very common for the old tractors to have some level of contamination in the fuel tank. If there is water, rust, or anything yucky in there, if the sediment bowl is dirty, or the screen is dirty or missing, now would be the time to deal with those issues. No use fouling a clean carb with dirty gas!

Is there a particular problem you're having with it?

PS: A shop manual will be a very good investment!
 
It has a little miss at idle, I have changed rotor button, distribitor cap, plug wires, plugs, and even remove the head and had a valve job done all cylinders, have around 100 lbs of pressure on gauge on all 4 cylinders now. an older friend of mine took the Carb. off and cleaned it and side that he did not think it had the correct factory parts in the carb. I watched him and there are a bunch of little parts that I do not no what they do, and I could not tell you if it had all the correct parts in the carb. it runs fine wheh u idle is up. Thanks Mark
 
It could be the carb, but other things can cause a rough idle.

Will the idle mixture screw adjust? As in will it change the idle quality by turning it in or out? If it changes the idle, chances are it is working. If it makes no difference, or runs better screwed all the way in, there is a carb problem, something wrong in the idle circuit.

Vacuum leak can cause an idle miss, spray some carb cleaner (the flammable kind) around the intake, where it bolts to the head, around the flange on the carb, see if the engine speed changes.

How is the distributor? Shaft bushing tight? Points set properly? Centrifugal advance working? Timing set properly?

Have you tried to pin down the miss to a particular cylinder? Pull plug wires until you find the one that makes the least difference. Try switching with another plug. Try switching the plug wires, you're seeing if the problem will follow the plug or wire, even though they are new it's a simple test just to be sure.
 
Steve, Thanks for taking the time to tell me things to try, I will check what you said Sat. I leave to go to work its dark and get home it dark. how do I check if the Shaft bushing is tight? also how do I check Centrifugal advance working. It's really getting under my skin, seems like everything I try does not change anything still does it.
(Thanks again) Mark
O the idle mixture screw does work.
 
To check the dist shaft, remove the dist cap and dust cover,
then wiggle the shaft side to side and look for excessive play.
You can use a feeler gauge on the points when doing this and
see if the gap changes. For a down and dirty advance check,
flick the rotor and see if it snaps back. If not, the advance may
be rusty or have weak or broken advance springs.
 
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