Jubilee-ran great, now runs, then quits

halikt · Jan 12, 2015

I've been reading a lot of past discussions on similar questions, and I think I've done all that I have learned so far...fuel, fuel filters, and fuel flow from carb. is good; changed ignition, changed condenser, rebuilt carb., changed coil, new gas cap, tried to run with air filter hose off, changed spark plugs.

Got my '53 Jubilee this past summer, and after cleaning the fuel tank, etc... it ran great, cutting fields, dragging driveways, etc...
Recently, it starts (always has) easy, but it will run for 3-10 minutes, and then, it starts to sputter like it's running out of gas. Then it cuts off. Almost always starts right back up, but problem persists. Sometimes, I have to wait a minute or two before it will start. Then, the same problem persists.

I apologize for incorrect references, terminology, etc... I am not a mechanic, nor have I been much of a tractor guy before...but I am loving this tractor and everything I have learned so far!

Greg1959 · Jan 12, 2015

What did you do to 'clean' the fuel tank?

ASEguy · Jan 12, 2015

Sounds like you may be starving for fuel. When it dies, immediately pull the plug on the bottom of the carb and see if you get a constant stream of fuel similar to what would come through a straw. It should fill a pint jar fairly quick.

DLMKA · Jan 12, 2015

I had that start happening to the Oliver 77 we just acquired. Was our first time filling the tank since getting it and first trip away from the house to bring some chicken feed to a friend in the grinder/mixer. Ran great all the way there but started dying at her place while unloading feed. Got out of the driveway and 100 yds down the road died again. Got it restarted and back in her driveway. Drained a soda bottle of mud from carb bowl and sediment bowl. New inline filter and got it home. There was dirt, water, rust, etc to the top of the standpipe on the tank. Emptied the brown fuel slurry from the tank, removed it and shook all the crud out. Will have to do a more thorough tank cleaning and seal it up before spring.

Steve@Advance · Jan 12, 2015

Sounds like fuel. Try pulling the drain plug from the carb again, but this time catch what comes out in a glass container so you can see if it's contaminated with water or whatever other than gas.

Also let the fuel flow for a few seconds. The flow will probably start good, but as the bowl empties the flow will slow, showing what's actually able to enter the bowl through the needle and seat. If it continues in a smaller stream, it's good. If it slows to a drip there is a restriction. Possibly a screen in the inlet fitting of the carb, a restriction in the tank valve.

halikt · Jan 12, 2015

Yes, I've pulled the plug in the bottom of the car., and I have good flow even after the bowl empties.

As far as how I cleaned the fuel tank... I drained it, removed it, let it dry out, put some small stone in it, shook it a lot (did this several times, while flushing it each time until nothing else came out). I let it dry out, refilled with fuel, ran great for months, then current problem began. I again drained fuel and cleaned tank...it was clean and the fuel I drained was clean. Removed bolt again in bottom of carb., and still getting good flow.

(quoted from post at 23:24:10 01/11/15) I've been reading a lot of past discussions on similar questions, and I think I've done all that I have learned so far...fuel, fuel filters, and fuel flow from carb. is good; changed ignition, changed condenser, rebuilt carb., changed coil, new gas cap, tried to run with air filter hose off, changed spark plugs.

Got my '53 Jubilee this past summer, and after cleaning the fuel tank, etc... it ran great, cutting fields, dragging driveways, etc...
Recently, it starts (always has) easy, but it will run for 3-10 minutes, and then, it starts to sputter like it's running out of gas. Then it cuts off. Almost always starts right back up, but problem persists. Sometimes, I have to wait a minute or two before it will start. Then, the same problem persists.

I apologize for incorrect references, terminology, etc... I am not a mechanic, nor have I been much of a tractor guy before...but I am loving this tractor and everything I have learned so far!

Steve@Advance · Jan 12, 2015

Another fuel system diagnostic to try, when the problem begins to happen, slowly pull the choke, see if it runs better partially choked. If it does, there is a lean fuel problem.

If the problem doesn't seem fuel related, look to the ignition system.

First, double check everything in the distributor, connections tight, nothing shorting to ground, condenser mount tight, point gap, wear in the distributor shaft. The wear in the dist shaft is critical and common. The points won't stay set if there is play in the bushing. It doesn't take much to cause strange problems.

If you have an analog volt meter, connect it to the ignition side of the coil, start it up, take a reading at mid range or higher throttle while it's running good. Watch the reading when the problem occurs. If the voltage drops or fluctuates, there is a bad connection between the coil and the switch or the switch and the battery.

Could possibly be the coil is failing. That's something you will have to be quick to catch, check the spark ASAP when it fails.

old · Jan 12, 2015

Do you by chance have an in line fuel filter on it??? If you do you stand a very good chance that is the problem. Most in line fuel filters are made for systems with a fuel pump not a gravity system

rustyfarmall · Jan 12, 2015

Is the fuel tank vent open?

ASEguy · Jan 13, 2015

Time to check spark. As soon as it dies you need to check for the presence of spark. I would clamp the metal hex of a spare spark plug to a metal bracket or something grounded to the tractor and crank the engine to see if it has spark. Make sure the plug you are using is properly gapped.

Jthomas1970 · Jan 14, 2015

Hello,

All of the suggestions offered are excellent advice. It's just more than likely something small that you are over looking. Go back through everything, taking your time, and you should find the problem. Other than what has been mentioned, my only other thought would be vaper-lock. We use to see this a lot but it is not so common now. Did you by chance re-route the fuel line near the exhaust manifold? Vapor-lock occurs when the fuel boils and is no longer liquid. After the engine stops and things cool down, it starts right back up, until it boils again. Good luck, Jonathan

87nassaublue · Jan 14, 2015

Yes, sound like you have some checking to do to rule out what's not your problem. To run, your engine needs fuel, air, spark and compression to run. At least one is shutting you down.

Marty Pinion · Jan 20, 2015

Just figured mine out yesterday. Same thing as yours and very hard to troubleshoot. Mine however ended up being the ignition switch. After just a bit of runninig it would vibrate just enough to break the circuit even though the switch was still in the run position. I'm not saying this is what your problem is but I would definately check it especially if it's the original switch. If you can catch it in time wiggle the key and see if it continues to run or either jump out the switch to verify you have a completed circuit.

David G · Feb 2, 2015

It was probably one thing, now you have a lot of new things to check out.

halikt · Feb 17, 2015

Again, please forgive any incorrect references, as this all remains relatively new to me...but, other than actually finding the problem, I am having fun learning to do things I've never done before.

Okay...I finally got back to this project/problem. To recap the problem (until today - see notes later in post). It would always start great, would idle fine, but once I started driving...after about 5-10 minutes, it would quit (like it was running out of gas). Things I've done so far include: cleaned tanks, cleaned all 3 screens-none were dirty at all, new gas cap, new coil, removed bolt in carb - good flow and no junk in what was caught coming out, changed ignition switch, [b:72c13d9695]and today, I changed points, condenser, and rotor...until today, the same problem existed, but now that I've changed the points, condenser, and rotor, I can't even get it to start. Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.[/b:72c13d9695]

Marty Pinion · Feb 20, 2015

1. Make sure the new rotor is the same length from the radius point out to the end of the tip as the old one.
2. Set the points as recommended but in doing this make sure you don't have a lot of wear in your top distributor bearing. If you do tighten up on the points gap just a bit.
3. Be careful when putting the distributor cap back on. Make sure it is in the positioning slot/notch by trying to turn it back and forth. You may feel just a tiny amount of movement in both directions and if so that's OK. It simply means you have it seated correctly.
4. After finishing all of the above pull one of the plugs and stick it back into the wire and hold it against a grounded point on the engine or frame. When the key is in run position and you try and crank it you should see fire from the tip of the plug.
Let me know if this helps.

GunnyIa · Feb 21, 2015

Just a thought here. Does the Jubilee have the same setup for reserve gas as the 8N?

If it does, ensure your turning the fuel knob below the tank only two full turns. Any further, your using a lower section of the pick-up tube inside the tank that may be blocked. Just a thought here.

Gunny, in Iowa

Jubilee-ran great, now runs, then quits

halikt

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